just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
HAHAHA!I don't know......that whole moon thing looks like a hoax.....
HAHAHA!I don't know......that whole moon thing looks like a hoax.....
Yea seen that coming. LolI don't know......that whole moon thing looks like a hoax.....
Ok Follower of Adair and the shallow thought community.
I'd listen to Bill V over Peter Chan (poster boy for the "doing year 1 bonsai for forty years" campaign) any day, but I doubt he'd use the technique 20 years later.
Even if he recommended it too, it would still be stupid.
With a thousand less damaging ways to accomplish the same thing.........
I guess this is just a lames way of living on the edge!
Keep at it!
Sorce
know nothing of Adair’s methods
Apologies.
You may be the only one NOT riding that train.
Truth truth.
I have never recommended my way.
That would be foolish.
Sorce
Makes sense you would call it foolish...
Search results for query: Recommend
www.bonsainut.com
I’ll go with Peter Chan’s advice over yours any day
Agreed @leatherback . If the tree is growing and appears healthy, leave it be till spring and handle the roots then. These trees sit root bound and on the ground all winter at nurseries around here, and perk right back up every spring. I’ve never lost a tree from leaving the nursery rootball intact, but I’ve lost multiple trees by messing with a nursery rootball at the wrong time too hard.I think people are way to obsessed with repotting. Thw trees are obviously growin in whatever muck there is in. Let them be. Clean out in spring. It will be ok as long as they do not sit in hot sun or pouring rain for days on end.
Good plan. If I get nursery trees out of season this about all I ever do to them myself till spring.Damn, another thread explosion. Ah well, I took @0soyoung 's advice and used a metal chopstick to push aeration holes into the middle of the rootballs and scraped off and replaced the top 1/2 inch of media. I'll repot as buds swell in Spring.
Those are other people's ways I recommend.
Mine come with caveats.
Read them.
Sorce
Can we get some pics of the tree?
Asking so we can cure this...
1-2 weeks in the shade won't really do much except set the tree back 1-2 weeks worth of shade.
You could search me talking about BIP (bring in pruning) and BOP (bring out pruning) with pics and stuff elsewhere if you need....but the nutshell is this......
Indoor leaves are indoor leaves.
Outdoor leaves are outdoor leaves.
Each not built for the others position.
So I strip them off, defoliate, when they get moved, which is ONCE in spring, and once in fall. When night temp is above or below 50.
This is 2 pruning moves a year, which can be enough, but certainly not too much.
I recommend this practice because it takes longer (2weeksshade) for a tree to lose it's other leaves and regrow leaves appropriate for it's new setting.
A tree knows what to do when it loses its leaves due to an animal, storm,etc. It grows them back. This is what BIP and BOP simulates.
Trees don't regularly move positions outside (and certainly never move to inside) so they get confused, this state is lengthy and unproductive, until leaves yellow and fall off, (what you are experiencing) Then they regrow leaves fit for their new position.
BIP and BOP just sees the inevitable and works with it to our favor.
We are squeezing as many days of productive energy gathering in as we can.
Sorce
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And you say how you do it and show places you learned. I think the point @sorce is making is, it is up to the reader to seek out what works best for them to a degree and to know why something is done not just that it should be done.You just talk about how you do it and tell the op where to look for more ways YOU do it.
Sorce, are you sure you're not a reincarnation of Dario (Poink88)? You're sounding more and more like him all the time. Same attitude, same posting frequency.