Hornbeam yamadori

jesse3489

Sapling
Messages
49
Reaction score
220
Location
WNC
USDA Zone
7a
I collected some hornbeams because they were going to be bulldozed in lieu of the hurricane that wiped out most of the land here in wnc. If anyone has any tips to make sure my trees make it through the winter or the projected probability of success that would be nice. I have John Geneangle on speed dial and has been an amazing help since our introduction. He suggested that I build a box and put my trees in there and then fill the box with mulch to keep them protected from freezing. The box will be placed inside of my polytunnel/greenhouse. Anyone who is well versed in the collection of hornbeam in a less than ideal time of year, it would be nice to get some key information on creating the ideal aftercare would be greatly appreciated. This is the best one that I collected, has quite a bit of fine feeder roots, it has an incredible nebari and a thick trunk, nebari under the soil line measures 8.5 inches and the trunk just above is 3.5 inches. I chopped the tree to about 18 inches. I pray that this tree can send out some buds. I know timing was less than ideal but it was either collect them or let them meet the fate of a dozer. I plan on letting these grow freely for the next 2 growing seasons to build up some energy.20241015_083102.jpg20241015_083120.jpg20241015_083126.jpg
 
Hornbeams are vigorous. Although I have not collecting any this late in the year, I have collected several at poor times of the year (August/September) and had 100% success. Keep it watered and protect it from freezing.
 
I collected 6 hornbeams herein 7B one year ago. I put some in the ground and some in grow boxes. All have been vigorous this year. I wiil pt some i the spring.
 
Bury the nebari up over the fluting for a year or three. LEaving it exposed like that can lead to drying out and die back.
It is under soil, I just moved it to show the nebari. I appreciate the thought though! I have high hopes for this one!
 
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If anyone was wondering how this tree faired. It's growing like a weed. This one might be my first subject to test out thread graft. It has about 5 main branches coming out of it with multiple sub branches coming out at nearly every single internode. This tree is hiding an insane rootbase for a wild collected tree. Almost PERFECTLY radial roots. My plan is to attempt thread grafts at the beginning of the next growing season. I will allow the tree to grow wild for the rest of that year and then the initial styling the following season. BIG PLANS FOR THIS ONE!
 
View attachment 599602
If anyone was wondering how this tree faired. It's growing like a weed. This one might be my first subject to test out thread graft. It has about 5 main branches coming out of it with multiple sub branches coming out at nearly every single internode. This tree is hiding an insane rootbase for a wild collected tree. Almost PERFECTLY radial roots. My plan is to attempt thread grafts at the beginning of the next growing season. I will allow the tree to grow wild for the rest of that year and then the initial styling the following season. BIG PLANS FOR THIS ONE!
Very nice! I have been looking for a wild hornbeam, Beech trees are probably my favorite trees. Many of the hornbeams I find have feeder roots attached to a larger tree, and seem difficult to take without damaging the roots. Did you have any issues when removing the tree?
Glad this is doing so well!
 
Very nice! I have been looking for a wild hornbeam, Beech trees are probably my favorite trees. Many of the hornbeams I find have feeder roots attached to a larger tree, and seem difficult to take without damaging the roots. Did you have any issues when removing the tree?
Glad this is doing so well!
I got sort of lucky with this one. It was growing on top of big rock right by a spring head and had an awesome root flare. I will say there were hardly any feeder roots even remotely close to the trunk, 4 or 5 little roots maybe. But I cut the large ones back fairly hard. I have collected them in other areas and honestly they are about 50/50 on whether they will be Easy or Excalibur. Some will have a shallow root system and one fat tap root that I chop as close as possible the trunk unless roots are slim picking. Then you get the ones where the tap root is bigger than your arm. I have dug probably over 30 and maybe 3 or 4 have died. Just keep them moist and they will be fine.
 
View attachment 599602
If anyone was wondering how this tree faired. It's growing like a weed. This one might be my first subject to test out thread graft. It has about 5 main branches coming out of it with multiple sub branches coming out at nearly every single internode. This tree is hiding an insane rootbase for a wild collected tree. Almost PERFECTLY radial roots. My plan is to attempt thread grafts at the beginning of the next growing season. I will allow the tree to grow wild for the rest of that year and then the initial styling the following season. BIG PLANS FOR THIS ONE!
I would nip off those giant leaves if there is branch division at the node already. It will allow more light to the lower branches.
 
I would nip off those giant leaves if there is branch division at the node already. It will allow more light to the lower branches.
Yea I have been debating on whether I think I should work on it yet. I just dug it last winter so I wasn't sure if I wanted to just let it go for the season or do some light work. I might go for it though. Do you have alot of experience with hornbeam yamadori?
 
Yea I have been debating on whether I think I should work on it yet. I just dug it last winter so I wasn't sure if I wanted to just let it go for the season or do some light work. I might go for it though. Do you have alot of experience with hornbeam yamadori?
Quite a bit, collected 30 or so American Hornbeam this spring. Once the branches thicken they will tear off the trunk super easy, and/or just snap in two, so initial angle for branches should be set pretty early or you are pretty much stuck with mostly verticle branches. It is best to just remove the huge leaves at the base of branch division, the new branches have enough leaves to keep the tree healthy. The shade will however cause longer internodes and possible that the tree will abandon a shaded branch. Keep a close eye on anything you wire, it bites pretty quick on young branches, but also doesn't take long for the branches to hold.
 
Quite a bit, collected 30 or so American Hornbeam this spring. Once the branches thicken they will tear off the trunk super easy, and/or just snap in two, so initial angle for branches should be set pretty early or you are pretty much stuck with mostly verticle branches. It is best to just remove the huge leaves at the base of branch division, the new branches have enough leaves to keep the tree healthy. The shade will however cause longer internodes and possible that the tree will abandon a shaded branch. Keep a close eye on anything you wire, it bites pretty quick on young branches, but also doesn't take long for the branches to hold.
I appreciate the heads up. And yea i have noticed that branch connection on most deciduous are very easy to break off. I will definitely get rid of the huge leaves. I am always trying to think about what I am doing, and why I am doing it. I think I can wait to wire. I think it's alittle late to wire an initial direction into the branch without breaking the connection point to the trunk. Imma do some investigation, I appreciate those key points!
 
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