Hornbeam yamadori

[Mooseman]

Thanks Rick, will do.

 

[Rick Moquin]

U R Welcome!

 

[Jan Olav]

Thank you for sharing !
Your pictures got me going for real now. Can`t wait until spring. I will get the drill and get to work. The hornbeam wood is pretty hard, but I`ll have a go anyway.
I will post some pics of the work as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer.

 

[Behr]

Thank you to those which have expressed approval...More experimentation needs to be done with this, and use of different species...

Mr. Mooseman, as Mr. Rick stated the brand is Gorilla Glue, and he described it well...Actually any type of epoxy or glue which will bond well to 'green wood, and is waterproof will work...I used an epoxy sold as 'Ray-Crete' on the latest one...It did bond well but the very top part did separate some with the pressure from new growth...

When was it performed? Early spring?

Mr. Dirk, I always have performed this technique on the bald cypress when dormant, but closer to budding...For me that is usually late February...

Thank you for sharing !
Your pictures got me going for real now. Can`t wait until spring. I will get the drill and get to work. The hornbeam wood is pretty hard, but I`ll have a go anyway.
I will post some pics of the work as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer.

Mr. Jan, I am glad to hear you plan to give this a go, and I do hope you will share your work...A few things to consider though...The hornbeam does not form callous near as quickly, is much stiffer to bend, and may suffer from some die back...I have also attempted in the past, doing this with elms and ficus, and the results although not disastrous were less than great...I would recommend chopping the hornbeam straight across first, and allow it to bud from the edge of the chop...then select four branches which are approximately at equal quarters around the edge, and allow these all to remain at the top of the triangle wedges...This would better assure the callous formation, and help to avoid die back...The extra leaders could be removed later when the callous is complete...The wedges do not have to be equal, but they should all meet closely when folded against the core blank...If you or any one have questions, I would be most happy to answer them based on my own experiences with this technique...

Regards
Behr

 

[Tachigi]

It did bond well but the very top part did separate some with the pressure from new growth...

Behr, great play by play. Once again you never cease to amaze.

To the point of the quote. In retrospect do you feel that if you had applied a wrap (i.e. raffia, vet wrap) that you might of better controlled the expansion of the new growth and subsequent separation?

 

[Behr]

Behr, great play by play. Once again you never cease to amaze.

To the point of the quote. In retrospect do you feel that if you had applied a wrap (i.e. raffia, vet wrap) that you might of better controlled the expansion of the new growth and subsequent separation?

Mr. Tom,

Thank you for those kind words...A wrap may have possibly helped, but it will not be a problem for me to re-glue the affected area soon using the 'Gorilla Glue'...The area which separated was on a wedge which did not bud at the tip, and the growth of the 'sub-trunk' next to it was much larger than even I expected...It will be an easy repair...

The real message here is 'this is still new enough for a lot of experimentation' using different species, glues, seasons, and cuts...I have to this point only used 4 sections, however I do believe possibly using even more could be advantageous for some species, and possibly less for others...I would love to try this on a juniper for example, but with this species one would need to pay particular attention to the time of year, and do it when there was less sap [swelling] in the cambium layer...That is a luxury we don't experience much here in Texas...I also believe the yew, larch, and dawn redwood would be good candidates for this procedure...I certainly plan to do more work with the elms, ficus, and a few other species...The maple may also be good, but I don't and won't grow them...The pine would possibly also work IF one used a whorl with at least 4 branches to be at the apex of each wedge...Of course I don't grow them either...Many of these things are just waiting to be discovered, and it is my hope that if people decide to try this, they will share their results and work so all may learn...

Regards
Behr

 

[Behr]

Mr. Tom,

After giving your suggestion on the wrap more [overnight] consideration, I think you may indeed be on to something which could be very useful especially with some species...My experiences with the use of "Coban", "Vet Wrap", and even more so "Coach Wrap", have indicated an increased tendency to grow bark and callous beneath the wrap when left in place for extended periods of time...I am still uncertain if this is a result of the additional moisture/air combination, or if it results due to less 'wearing away' of the bark by exposure to the elements...I am inclined to believe the former...I have, by the way, found the "Coach Wrap" from 'Johnson&Johnson' to be far superior to the products from '3M' due to the ease of removal after extended periods of being exposed to watering, heat, cold, and sun light...With the '3M' products, removal will almost invariably result in the loss of some of the bark gained by being wrapped...

Thank you for this thought...I will certainly need to give this a try...

Regards
Behr

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Mr. Tom,

After giving your suggestion on the wrap more [overnight] consideration, I think you may indeed be on to something which could be very useful especially with some species...My experiences with the use of "Coban", "Vet Wrap", and even more so "Coach Wrap", have indicated an increased tendency to grow bark and callous beneath the wrap when left in place for extended periods of time...I am still uncertain if this is a result of the additional moisture/air combination, or if it results due to less 'wearing away' of the bark by exposure to the elements...I am inclined to believe the former...I have, by the way, found the "Coach Wrap" from 'Johnson&Johnson' to be far superior to the products from '3M' due to the ease of removal after extended periods of being exposed to watering, heat, cold, and sun light...With the '3M' products, removal will almost invariably result in the loss of some of the bark gained by being wrapped...

Thank you for this thought...I will certainly need to give this a try...

Regards
Behr

I think it's the moisture that brings extra bark / callous. The technique of using spagnum also works that way, isn't it? And the weather doesn't strip that much of bark i guess.

Dirk