Hinoki Fun Bonsai

Have you thought about removing the top part that seems to be sticking out to give the apex a nice rounded look? It looks to be sticking out since the first pic. Just my thoughts. The part between the door nob and the dead bolt in the last pic.
 
Have you thought about removing the top part that seems to be sticking out to give the apex a nice rounded look? It looks to be sticking out since the first pic. Just my thoughts. The part between the door nob and the dead bolt in the last pic.

Yes I think I know what part you mean. If you could circle it in paint that would help.

I would like to have a nice round top, but I do not think there is enough foliage coming out width wise to shape it yet. I think I would end up with a loly pop/pom pom top. The top still needs to be styled better. The tree seems to be taking shape on it's own just by free growth periods and pinching/defining foliage pads.
 
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This is the part I would remove to give it a nice round canopy.
 

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Wanted to share my Hinoki. I only had this Hinoki for 1 year (purchased from home depot) and it's starting to get a nice silhouette. October gave me advice in the beginning. The top portion is still bushy and I have to figure out how to define the foliage pads, but the bottom section is looking nice. I let it grow all year last year after it's first styling.

Purchased
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Last June
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April 2013 ( zero die back during the winter which is good)
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June 2013
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I think they make good bonsai for beginners if you get one with decent branches.

I think they make great subjects for anybody. Can be rewarding an trying on all levels.
 
This is the part I would remove to give it a nice round canopy.

Alright. I did think about that. I pictured something like this. The only thing is I have a jin, and if I did cut that top, there would be a hole at the top until it filled in. My plan is to let the top round off by pinching and shaping through time. I like the height it is. I thought about making it shorter, but I think this height gives it a nice presence in the yard.
 

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One thing you will need to address is the length of all the branches. The entire silhouette will need to be reduced. Not only for aesthetic reasons, but for health reasons. You do not have to do it this season, but I would recommend definitely next season. You will need to assess every branch, particualrly all side branches. Then cut back to a point on each branch where there is a branch that can be wired into position to form the new end of the branch. This can be a tedious job. Between first assessing and the actual work, you will probably need several hours.

If this is not done, what will happen is that the branches will continuously grow from the ends and shed the foliage in the interior. Then the design will be lost and it will take additional work to get it back. Also, I would stop pinching. You currently do not know which cut backs are going to be made. You might be pinching off and weakening growth that could be crucial to the new silhouette. Pinching should be done after the silhouette is formed. Preferrably starting the year after the desired silhouette is achieved.

I hope this was helpful.

Rob
 
One thing you will need to address is the length of all the branches. The entire silhouette will need to be reduced. Not only for aesthetic reasons, but for health reasons. You do not have to do it this season, but I would recommend definitely next season. You will need to assess every branch, particualrly all side branches. Then cut back to a point on each branch where there is a branch that can be wired into position to form the new end of the branch. This can be a tedious job. Between first assessing and the actual work, you will probably need several hours.

And the assistance of several adult beverages.

If this is not done, what will happen is that the branches will continuously grow from the ends and shed the foliage in the interior. Then the design will be lost and it will take additional work to get it back. Also, I would stop pinching. You currently do not know which cut backs are going to be made. You might be pinching off and weakening growth that could be crucial to the new silhouette. Pinching should be done after the silhouette is formed. Preferrably starting the year after the desired silhouette is achieved.

I hope this was helpful.

Rob

Hinokys are a transient tree, under a state of constant construction. You can work on them carefully year after year and then of a sudden you will notice the tree is going to look real fine this coming year----provided nothing bad happens. It will in fact look really good till it grows outside the design and you have to start dithering around with it again for another couple of years. It is kind of like being present as a total eclipse of the Sun. Most of the "dithering" involves what Rob has pointed out; the art of branch replacement.
 
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One thing you will need to address is the length of all the branches. The entire silhouette will need to be reduced. Not only for aesthetic reasons, but for health reasons. You do not have to do it this season, but I would recommend definitely next season. You will need to assess every branch, particualrly all side branches. Then cut back to a point on each branch where there is a branch that can be wired into position to form the new end of the branch. This can be a tedious job. Between first assessing and the actual work, you will probably need several hours.

If this is not done, what will happen is that the branches will continuously grow from the ends and shed the foliage in the interior. Then the design will be lost and it will take additional work to get it back. Also, I would stop pinching. You currently do not know which cut backs are going to be made. You might be pinching off and weakening growth that could be crucial to the new silhouette. Pinching should be done after the silhouette is formed. Preferrably starting the year after the desired silhouette is achieved.

I hope this was helpful.

Rob

Yes this is helpful. I'm going to stop pinching this year. I did want to get some light into the branches which is why I pinched and pruned some of the unwanted growth such as under growth and growth growing up. I have been looking at points to cut back the lower branches.

If available would it be easier to cut back to a tuft that would continue the branch line instead of wiring a side secondary branch forward?
 
Yes this is helpful. I'm going to stop pinching this year. I did want to get some light into the branches which is why I pinched and pruned some of the unwanted growth such as under growth and growth growing up. I have been looking at points to cut back the lower branches.

If available would it be easier to cut back to a tuft that would continue the branch line instead of wiring a side secondary branch forward?

Yes, you can cut back to a tuft. As long as it look healthy and has a little length to it. Also, what you are accomplishing is taper. Left unchecked, the branches get longer and longer and have very little taper. By cutting back to a smaller branch or tuft, as that area grows, it will still be thinner than the first part of the branch. That is how the taper is created.

You hinoki is very nice with great potential. Looks like it is doing very well in your care. It is healthy, has a tapered trunk and decent base. Many times, these trees have reverse taper at the base. As Vance said, these trees can get away from you very fast. One season it looks great, the next season the branches are far too long and the silhouette is out of proportion.

Rob
 
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