Guy_wires Collection

I'm throwing this out there because I think I struck gold.
So the past couple of years I've been thinking about my scots pine protocol and I'm still building on it. One of the goals was to get rid of calendars.
Calendars suck because they are points in time, and rarely does nature ever stick to points in time. Instead, nature lives on its own set of rules and our plants seem to follow this.

When grafting junipers, I ran into those exact issues; the Japanese do it in February, we do it in "early spring". But the early spring nowadays lasts for about 3 months and can be summer, fall and winter within the same week.
For my scots pines there are a few key moments where you can see things on the plant itself, like the state that it's in and whether or not it's winter dormant, spring growing, summer growing, summer dormant, fall growing, fall dormant.
Those cues, apparently, are also there in junipers.

So here's my hypothesis:
The best time to graft junipers is when the male pollen cones are fully formed and dropping off at a light touch, or when the female flower structures (those white-ish squares) are just forming on the receiving plant.
This cue is based on whether or not foliage extension happens a week or two later, so just in time of the emerging sapflow.

Can life be that easy? Drop the calendars and see for yourself whether or not it is true that "when the pollen cones drop, the foliage grows a couple weeks later" and "when the flowers emerge, the foliage grows a couple weeks later".
Let's make life plant dependent instead of calendar restricted.

Opinions and experiences are very much welcome.
 
Good point @leatherback. I'm waiting to see whether the fusion of tissue happens before the heat starts here, which has been my main problem. In hotter climates I think shading the whole plant might be better. I don't know how junipers behave in hotter climates, but I would think that fall heat would also be problematic.
Fall grafting has been unsuccesful here mostly. Because it's more difficult to time right, I think.
 
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Stuck a bunch of elms in the dirt this winter. Looking good.
So back in the dirt they went.
Will sort them out next year, probably.
 
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These pots with open and close tops are great for juniper cuttings. Never had a 70% strike rate before.

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Baby tridents were kept in there too, after germination. Good anti-bird system.
 
where do you get fresh spaghnum moss?
I make it my mission each year to find three bags of either dried new zealand sphagnum, because it can revive from a dry state.
Or I buy them at larger stores like intratuin, they have bags of (sometimes) live sphagnum near the orchids and carnivorous plants.
When I was a teenager I made a bog from one of those cement containers (40x60x40) containing about 10cm of black peat with sphagnum on top. In sunny conditions it produced about one or two bags a year in harvestable "tips" of about 4cm in length.
Thanks to the peat, the soil acidity was good enough to use tap water for most of the summer. Just protect it from birds if you're going to try that yourself.
 
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Alders are producing lettuce when given enough root space and plenty of water.
Destined for forest replanting, eventually. So I hope they keep doing this.
 
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Looong way to go for this prunus cerasifera, but the trunk line is set.
Escape branch on the right can grow freely, the bent one on the left will be the future apex.
 
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Needle clipping instead of pulling. To conserve forming fascicular/needle buds like shown below.
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Hoping for a nice set up buds before winter, because this tree is ready for a rewiring.
 
I make it my mission each year to find three bags of either dried new zealand sphagnum, because it can revive from a dry state.
Or I buy them at larger stores like intratuin, they have bags of (sometimes) live sphagnum near the orchids and carnivorous plants.
When I was a teenager I made a bog from one of those cement containers (40x60x40) containing about 10cm of black peat with sphagnum on top. In sunny conditions it produced about one or two bags a year in harvestable "tips" of about 4cm in length.
Thanks to the peat, the soil acidity was good enough to use tap water for most of the summer. Just protect it from birds if you're going to try that yourself.

I bought my last at www.stekjesbrief.nl You can get a 1kg dry at 22 euro. It is not cheap. But at Intratuin, a long time ago, I believe I bought wet sphagnum moss, at a tiny amount for like 15 or 20 euro. It is priced for people who do decoration stuff with wood and rando things. And therefore the price was way higher than anything even reasonable.

If you know a cheaper price than the one I linked, let me know. But I think this is cheaper than intratuin. Though, it may be possible that they do sell literally bulk bales of actual sphagnum moss, not peat, at some intratuins. I have never seen them. Every time people sell bulk bales of 'sphagnum moss' it is 'peat moss'. But you can only truly know after you but the product and open the plastic.

Growing your own is an interesting option. If you have the time and space.

I have one Scot's pine left. I am going to prune it on Tuesday evening, after these two hot days we have now ended. To see if I can get backbudding. I started field growing some pines. But they got a bit too large and I had problems for the roots to stay compact. All but one died after I replanted them.

I actually kinda need to get rid of this Scot's pine, to be honest. I am never going to put it in a bonsai pot. Have been growing it since 2012.
 
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cutting the needles to stubs instead of yanking them off seems to yield a good response in scots pines. Coupled with shoot pruning and fertilizer, the results are nice.
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Some time capsule work.
In 2018 I bought this juniper and did a little work. Arrogant as I am, I thought it would be nice to keep the prickly foliage.
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It's now 6 years later, and I'm replacing the foliage for Blaauw.
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This winter I will cut the original foliage further back to direct more energy to the grafts.
If all goes well, in 2026 it will be fully converted to Blaauw.
 
Had to kill some time yesterday so I went garden center hopping.
Found a 7 euro old gold juniper.
Then I started wondering why we start from the bottom, set the bones and then finish the fine wiring.
What would happen if we flip the method around?
Goal: bunjin like juniper, simple but elegant trunkline and some foliage on top.

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Okay I lied, I removed a bunch from the bottom first to know what I'm working with. But bare with me, it will get a bit less bad.

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See? I started from the top, first an apex! Left, right, left, right branching. Had to do some twists for back and forth dimensions.

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A few wires later. Why is my hand looking like a foot?

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A dropping branch would be cool. So I eliminated all but three branches. Bottom two ones are too low, so it became the upper one.

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Some medical tape applied because this protects the cut paste from snails and it helps prevent splitting. I plan on splitting the trunk next year.
This is also the point where I'm thinking: Hmmm this could be very bad, but let's trust the process. I know how to wire, I know how to bend, I'm familiar with 'the craft' and this is nothing more than crafting with a set of rules. Follow the rules!

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Alright, this ain't that bad. Bottom leans left, so movement to the right, forward, left, backwards and right and forwards again.

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Wired the future jin and left some foliage and some bark so that it gets a bit more rugged than just a "round branch that was debarked". Trimmed some of the branch lengths.
For now, the work is done.

Have a nice day y'all!
How is this one doing?
Quite shaggy actually.
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Tried some of that trunk splitting I heard about. Pretty cool stuff.

But now the whole trunk needs rewiring. Since the whole bottom shape has been altered and it's now leaning in a weird direction.

But I've learned one can get away with it. So I've done it on other plants as well, and got away with it.
 
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No spring nutrients for this one next year. Tons of buds everywhere so it was difficult to rewire. Neatly laid out now. After the buds have gained some body I plan on needle pulling a bit more to tone down the vigor in 2025.

Funky project tree.
Here's how it started out 5 years ago.
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Back then, my idea was "no large cuts" and to build every branch immediately.
 
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