Grafting technique!

[bonhe]

This is a Kinzu kumquat grafted on Troyer's citrus one year ago. It has 4 grafts totally.


This morning, the Kinzu showed signs of growth.


The Troyer branch was cut off.


It had a new shoot of Troyer's on the trunk


The shoot was removed to let the tree's energy go to the Kinzu sites.


Bonhe

 

[bonhe]

Another Kinzu grafted on Troyer's citrus last year, too. There are 3 grafts totally.


Kinzu showed the growth.


Troyer was removed


Bonhe

 

[MichaelS]

Hi bonhe, I once grafted Kinzu onto Poncirus trifoiata. It grew well. In fact too well. Massive thorns and very heavy branches. The stock also swelled excessively. It kind of lost it's delicate and fine character. Do you think Troyer is a more suitable stock?

 

[barrosinc]

nice one! Following this thread!
I am going to graft the tree from this thread this winter.

If you have some more images on the process of approximation grafting for junipers... I would appreciate them.

 

[bonhe]

Hi bonhe, I once grafted Kinzu onto Poncirus trifoiata. It grew well. In fact too well. Massive thorns and very heavy branches. The stock also swelled excessively. It kind of lost it's delicate and fine character. Do you think Troyer is a more suitable stock?

Hi MichaelS. Sorry, I don't have a chance to work on Poncirus trifoiata, so I can't answer your question. I think it depends on the soil, the care we give to the tree. One of mine also have large, long thorns and grows fast.
Bonhe

 

[markyscott]

Nice tutorial and good pictures. Thanks for sharing bonhe.

S

 

[bonhe]

I am going to graft the tree from this thread this winter.
If you have some more images on the process of approximation grafting for junipers... I would appreciate them.

I think you are talking about Inarching graft. I think I have pictures for that. With the big juniper stock, you should use Inarching graft because the success rate is much higher than Side grafting. I will try to find those images taken when I was grafting Itoigawa on California juniper few years ago.
Bonhe

 

[barrosinc]

I think you are talking about Inarching graft. I think I have pictures for that. With the big juniper stock, you should use Inarching graft because the success rate is much higher than Side grafting. I will try to find those images taken when I was grafting Itoigawa on California juniper few years ago.
Bonhe

Inarching?? I have 4 small trees in 3x3x4inch pots, I am going to hang the pots from the tree and use approximation graft. How does it differ form approximation?

 

[coh]

Very nice tutorial, thanks for taking the time to do this.

One question, I've looked through this a couple of times and didn't see it - you cut one long slant and one short slant on the scion, which way is it inserted into the rootstock? It looks like you're inserting the scion with the long side of the wedge facing in, is that correct?

 

[coh]

Bonhe hasn't logged on since Sunday, can anyone else who has had success doing these kinds of grafts comment on my question regarding the direction to insert the scion? I'm planning to attempt some grafting this spring, want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[MichaelS]

Yes long face in.

 

[garywood]

Chris, long side against the trunk or branch.

 

[bonhe]

Inarching?? I have 4 small trees in 3x3x4inch pots, I am going to hang the pots from the tree and use approximation graft. How does it differ form approximation?

Approximation graft is a kind of inarching graft. No difference.
Bonhe

 

[bonhe]

Bonhe hasn't logged on since Sunday, can anyone else who has had success doing these kinds of grafts comment on my question regarding the direction to insert the scion? I'm planning to attempt some grafting this spring, want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Thanks,

Chris

Sorry Chris. On weekdays, I rarely come into the forum due to my schedule!
Thanks MichaelS and Garywood for the answer.
Bonhe

 

[coh]

Thanks all. The more I thought about it, the more it made sense that the long side would face in. I feel like I've read the opposite somewhere, though, so wanted to be sure.

Chris

 

[thumblessprimate1]

I goofed up a week ago placing the short side against the trunk. Doing things by a faulty memory. I was told that it gets worse with age. Oh well, always something else to practice on.

 

[bonhe]

I grafted the Kishu shimpaku on Foemina juniper in 1/2015. Grafted 3 but only 2 survived. Side grafting has less chance of success when scion is too young for the rootstock part where you want to place the graft.
Those pictures were taken on 3/1/2016


The scion is showing the new growth.


I remove all the foemina juniper needles but one was left.


Bonhe

 

[bonhe]

Other grafts.


The scion also shows new growth.


The foemina juniper needles were removed all but one.


Task was completed for now.


Bonhe

 

[bonhe]

I am preparing to give further information on the side graft. Before I do, I like to know:
1. What is the best time for side graft?
2. Please explain why you said so.
Thanks.
Bonhe

 

[MichaelS]

I am preparing to give further information on the side graft. Before I do, I like to know:
1. What is the best time for side graft?
2. Please explain why you said so.
Thanks.
Bonhe

Bonhe,

I think your climate is similar to mine. (hot dry summer, cool to cold wet winter?) Mild weather, not much frost.
I graft (not just side but all kinds except thread and root) a lot in spring (late winter) but lately I have started to graft more in Autumn. (about mid March to early April here which would be mid September early October there)
My reasons:
1/ It gives you an opportunity to graft twice per year if you don't have much time in spring.
2/ With pines, I find I do not get the bad swelling at the graft union which I sometimes get in spring. (when I say spring I actually mean late winter here - about mid Feb to mid March in the US)
3/ By grafting in autumn, the scion has a long time to unite with the stock before the pressure of growing (increasing heat and light) forces it into growth.
In other words it will form a nice firm, fully healed union and but then remain dormant until spring when it takes off at the same time as the rest of the tree.
Everything else is the same. Preparation, moss, bag, cutting back the stock when the scion starts etc.
It works very well on Conifers but also on deciduous.
With tropical evergreens like citrus, I like to do them when it's still quite warm. Even mid summer if you can protect them properly.

Also, I noticed in your last pic that all the leaves of the stock has been cut off!
Normally with conifers the stock is cut back in many stages - slowly reducing the front of the branch until the scion is very well established. With a small scion on a heavy branch, this should take up to three years before the graft replaces the original!