For the love of Prunus mume...

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I'm going to try mancozeb. Good luck with yours. We can start a separate thread to document it. I'm not really fond of sensitive species due to the need for chemical treatment. From what I read, black knot is present long before it shows up and I know Pitoon also visited this nursery, too.
Yes, several of the mume I got from this nursery has black knot. Remove the fungus before it releases it's spores. Treat with a fungicide such as chlorothalonil, mancozeb, or captan. The trees should bounce back after treatment.
 
Really love this time of the year, hopefully I'll get a good crop.

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How do you get prunus mume to be more productive in fruiting? Does cross pollination help? i see they mostly make more flowers than fruit. Or do you recommend a particular type of fertilizer?
 
How do you get prunus mume to be more productive in fruiting? Does cross pollination help? i see they mostly make more flowers than fruit. Or do you recommend a particular type of fertilizer?
If you want more fruit you will need to hand pollinate.
 
I did a bit of this earlier this week. Is it sufficient enough to take a flower off a tree and rub it around on other flowers?
I find it easier to do with a cheap thin paint brush with soft bristles. The bristles hold the pollen well, and a little pollen goes a long ways.
 
How do you get prunus mume to be more productive in fruiting? Does cross pollination help?

I’ve visited the top Ume producers in Japan, and nobody hand pollinates. But they have ideal conditions and well-planned orchards.

Your climate/weather matters a lot because of timing with regards to potential frost damage, and presence of insects for polination.

Cultivar also matters — some cultivars are grown for fruit, others are grown for ornamental flowers, and still others are grown to be pollinators for fruit-cultivars.

Among those that are grown for fruit, inherently some are high yield, some are low yield. (Their flavor, aroma, color, and purpose vary as well, of course).

When growing ume for fruit, you normally grow cultivars that are good polinators among the other cultivars that you are growing for fruit.

Example: shin uchida or hanakami are excellent polinator varieties. You would plant these in the area specifically in order to polinate kishu nanko (famous in kansai region) or shirakaga (famous in kanto region) which are not good polinators but produce high-quality fruit.

Selection of polinator-cultivars depends primarily on timing of flowers. You want to match cultivars that flower simultaneously, or have enough variety of polinator-cultivars so that you’ve covered the entire flowering period of your fruit-cultivars. You don’t want to use a polinator-culrivar that is famous for flowering late in combination with a fruit-cultivar that flowers early.

In Japan, when buying an ume tree for your garden to produce fruit they are commonly sold in pairs with a matching pollinator-cultivar. (This is something i will be offering in the near future in North America).

Personally, because i am in Quebec where late frost is a major factor, i work exclusively in a cold frame. I have found excellent polination rates by simply releasing lady bugs and using ventilation (which simultaneously helps with aphids and potential fungal issues).
 
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I’ve visited the top Ume producers in Japan, and nobody hand pollinates. But they have ideal conditions and well-planned orchards.

Your climate/weather matters a lot because of timing with regards to potential frost damage, and presence of insects for polination.

Cultivar also matters — some cultivars are grown for fruit, others are grown for ornamental flowers, and still others are grown to be pollinators for fruit-cultivars.

Among those that are grown for fruit, inherently some are high yield, some are low yield. (Their flavor, aroma, color, and purpose vary as well, of course).

When growing ume for fruit, you normally grow cultivars that are good polinators among the other cultivars that you are growing for fruit.

Example: shin uchida or hanakami are excellent polinator varieties. You would plant these in the area specifically in order to polinate kishu nanko (famous in kansai region) or shirakaga (famous in kanto region) which are not good polinators but produce high-quality fruit.

Selection of polinator-cultivars depends primarily on timing of flowers. You want to match cultivars that flower simultaneously, or have enough variety of polinator-cultivars so that you’ve covered the entire flowering period of your fruit-cultivars. You don’t want to use a polinator-culrivar that is famous for flowering late in combination with a fruit-cultivar that flowers early.

In Japan, when buying an ume tree for your garden to produce fruit they are commonly sold in pairs with a matching pollinator-cultivar. (This is something i will be offering in the near future in North America).

Personally, because i am in Quebec where late frost is a major factor, i work exclusively in a cold frame. I have found excellent polination rates by simply releasing lady bugs and using ventilation (which simultaneously helps with aphids and potential fungal issues).
You went to Japan to visit mume growers? Well good for you.

While I agree with most all of what you wrote, you are neglecting the fact that a hobbyist is going to have a couple of mume trees, not an orchard.

Most will have just a tree or two. These trees will most likely be kept outside.......not in a cold frame and have insects introduced. There's not many insects out that I've seen when mume's are in bloom. Me personally, I believe mume are pollinated by wind.

Having a different cultivar can definitely help with cross pollination, but it's not really needed as Prunus mume are self pollinating.

Does it make sense for professional grower to hand pollinate, well this depends. But for a small grower especially a hobbyist with a tree or two, then yeah hand pollinating is the way to go to increase yield. It takes less the 5 mins to pollinate a small tree by hand.
 
You went to Japan to visit mume growers? Well good for you.

While I agree with most all of what you wrote, you are neglecting the fact that a hobbyist is going to have a couple of mume trees, not an orchard.

Most will have just a tree or two. These trees will most likely be kept outside.......not in a cold frame and have insects introduced. There's not many insects out that I've seen when mume's are in bloom. Me personally, I believe mume are pollinated by wind.

Having a different cultivar can definitely help with cross pollination, but it's not really needed as Prunus mume are self pollinating.

Does it make sense for professional grower to hand pollinate, well this depends. But for a small grower especially a hobbyist with a tree or two, then yeah hand pollinating is the way to go to increase yield. It takes less the 5 mins to pollinate a small tree by hand.

Same situation as always. I’ve given you facts, and you’ve chosen to interpret them one way.

Nothing i’ve said should be shocking or upsetting. Here in north america the same is done for apples and pears. As a ‘hobbyist’ if you want to grow an apple tree for fruit in your yard you are going to go buy macintosh, granny smith, or some other highly edible cultivar. You’re not gonna go buy some random malus known for its flowers and pretend it’s delicious. You’re also going to get a variety that self-pollinates easily, or that is accompanied by a good pollinator (either separate or grafted onto the same tree).

If hobbyist is only going to have a handful of trees and intends to produce fruit…

step #1 is to get the right cultivars that produce edible fruit and are capable of producing the fruit in high volume

Step #2 is getting a pollinator variety because cross pollination is important, regardless of whether you are hand pollinating or not (and regardless of whether your goal is to produce edible fruit or seed)

If you want to make juice, jam, syrup, umeshu or umeboshi with matsubara red or some other ornamental flower variety i wish you bon appetit with your handful of mostly inedible fruit 😉

Some of the good fruit varieties are:

Ao jiku
Beni sashi
Bungo
Hanakami
Inadzumi
Kishu
Kojiro
Koshu
Kotsubu
O hisa ma koto
Oushuku
Ryukyo
Shirakaga
Suiko
Tsuyu akane
 
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So I’m seriously working with Prunus mume, currently working with 22 cultivars. I’m doing some personal research on the best rootstock for grafting onto as well as which cultivars will root best by cuttings. Here’s a quick look on grafting a bud onto rootstock. If this bud survives and joins the rootstock the top will be removed. This low graft will be undisguisable after several years. You will never know it was grafted as the union will blend in seamlessly. This is the key to getting quality grafted mume stock for pre-bonsai.

This is Prunus mume ‘Kanko bai’ being grafted. Hopefully in several years I will be known for producing top notch grafted mume and having the sweetest smelling yard at the end of winter 😁.

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Can you narrow down what I've got? I have a full sized tree >25ft. And an apricot almond X. Cuttings from both seem to take fairly easily
 
Same situation as always. I’ve given you facts, and you’ve chosen to interpret them one way.
You provided some facts, yes. I didn't argue that at all. But you always like to assume everyone is doing what you are doing or what they are doing in Japan. Dude.....we are not in Japan.

The guy asked how could he get more fruit. He didn't ask for a book about what people do in Japan. He doesn't have an orchard. I doubt he's a professional grower.

Who said he wants fruit to eat? Did he or did you?

Nothing i’ve said should be shocking or upsetting. Here in north america the same is done for apples and pears. As a ‘hobbyist’ if you want to grow an apple tree for fruit in your yard you are going to go buy macintosh, granny smith, or some other highly edible cultivar. You’re not gonna go buy some random malus known for its flowers and pretend it’s delicious. You’re also going to get a variety that self-pollinates easily, or that is accompanied by a good pollinator (either separate or grafted onto the same tree).
Yes...yes...yes....you're right. Any fruit tree/plant will benefit with a different cultivar that is compatible.

But if the guy has one tree? Should he put it in a cold frame and introduce lady bugs?

If you want to make juice, jam, syrup, umeshu or umeboshi with matsubara red or some other ornamental flower variety i wish you bon appetit with your handful of mostly inedible fruit 😉
Thanks, I didn't know I wanted to make juice, jam, syrup, umeshu, and umeboshi.

I will sleep better tonight knowing that.
 
Hard to say really. It could be anything.

If you have a picture of a flower completely open have a look at 'Beni-chidori'....it looks fairly close.
Thanks. That gives me somthing to look into. It seems very similar. My tree is from a batch planted at the botanical garden in 92 already sizable. Some of theirs have died. But mine keeps going. Theres archived photos of them at that time. I'm guessing they chose a very basic wild type variety. Very rarely have I found fruit. But one yeat the apricot almond X was loaded.
 

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Thanks. That gives me somthing to look into. It seems very similar. My tree is from a batch planted at the botanical garden in 92 already sizable. Some of theirs have died. But mine keeps going. Theres archived photos of them at that time. I'm guessing they chose a very basic wild type variety. Very rarely have I found fruit. But one yeat the apricot almond X was loaded.
If it was planted from seed, then yours is unique. Keep in mind 'beni-chidori' is a smaller tree.

Does yours produce fruit?
 
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