First Scott's Pine, help me make decisions

[Aaronkslater]

Hello bonsai nuts,
Been reading for a long time but this is my first post. I have this new material, first scotts pine for me and one of my first pines... I'm really excited about making something spectacular out of it but I don't have a vision for it yet. I'm hoping for some suggestions from Ya'll.

The snow just melted here and the tree is still frozen in the bed where i dug it in for winter protection. It is one year from being dug and transitioned to its box really well. All I did last year was candle removal and I have lots of tiny candle buds now. I plan to select buds, let them grow all season with lots of fertilizer to get vigor up so I can do any large chops or bends that I decide on in the fall / early winter. But... I really need a vision!

 

[Vance Wood]

Nice tree going on there. I love Scots Pines and this one is doing well. Don't let the tree get away from you. The first thing you should do is decide how tall you want the tree to be and come to grips with the principles of producing taper. You seem to almost be at that point.

 

[Giga]

That a nice scots. I 2nd Vance, that you need to decide is what that vision is. In other words, through proper techniques, how can you bring the best qualities of this tree that speaks to you. First step I think is to establish a front. Dwell on the tree and look at real scots and peoples bonsai and see if anything speaks to you about the tree. Kinda vague, but I'll study one of my tree's and study, and then study some more then next day or next year I'll have a "perfect" plan.

 

[fourteener]

This picture is the source of your problem and options. The lower branch on the left is fine. It's the knuckle above that is getting out of control as too many thing are growing from one point. I see four major growth points. Do you choose the left and go tall, do you choose one on the right and meander. It's like a mogul skier trying to pick the best line. You have to ignore the extension of foliage and pick an interesting trunk line. Also take note the tree can be repotted at an angle at a later date. This year though you have to make a decision about the knuckle. It will only get worse. Take a sheet or towel and cover the foliage of what you might remove. Sometimes you need a visual aid.

 

[sorce]

Nice pine.

Cactus for visions!

Sorce

 

[Aaronkslater]

meaning hallucinogenic cactus? I tried that

Thanks for the replies, I hear what Vance is saying about taper and making that a priority right now.
I also appreciate Fourteener's words about that knuckle. It's helpful to have the most pressing issues pointed out. I will focus on those as I work through my decision process.

I am no stranger to taking years to find a direction for a tree... That is what I want to avoid, I want to see if I can develop this into an ok tree in 5 years, but I am having a hard time rushing the design process... What I'm hearing from you more experienced bonsai peeps is to focus on managing the things that will be a detriment to any design first, that will buy me some time to live with the tree and envision it's future form. It's really helpful to have those issues pointed out, Thanks!

QUESTION:
articles I read said to cut into old wood in the fall/early winter on these in order to get higher chance of backbud. If I am completely removing a branch is there any reason to wait till then? Seems like early spring (now) would be a good time for that.

THANKS

 

[Vance Wood]

There are a couple of ways to approach this tree. The first is to recognize a recognizable potential bonsai that is not so far into the future you have to leave the solution in your will. Lacking that you have to kind of accept that you need to do some things that will produce options that you can utilize quicker in real time. I have selected the picture #3 in you series to make some observations. If this was my tree I would start by removing the branch at the base. This will stop accentuating the basal knuckle which in time with this tree will disappear.

I would then seriously consider stubbing the two larger branches above the small group of branches you can see here on the right. These will be jinned later as they dry out, unless you like the numerous buds that will be produced in their absence. However; I am thinking of designing the tree from the abundant branches you have growing on the right. Take a look at their possibilities and see if you think if you can put the rest of the tree out of your mind. Remember Scots Pines back bud like crazy.

 

[fourteener]

I agree with Vance. Make the smallest tree possible. You will move toward good taper if you remove the two big sections exiting the close up Vance has in his post. With the two remaining, in the future you might be able to use one as a top. Getting more light on that bottom branch and pinching candles will cause that to bud back and allow more pruning choices down the road. It feels like your losing ground when you make big moves, but your not.

Removing branches for design and attempting to cause backbudding are two separate issues in my mind. The candle pinching is what really stimulates the back budding. The fact that there is more light there because of a trim adds to that to a certain degree.

Also you got to look to things with an eye for the present and the future. When I look at that bottom branch on the left, the future of that branch has more to do with those first two little branches than it does with all of that extension. Those are really important to the future of the tree. This year I'd worry about that knuckle, pinch off half the candles on all the rest of the tree and really fertilize. You will get a bunch of backbudding. Next season you cut back on those branches about a third. You really have to force things to move back toward the trunk.

It takes a while with pines, but it's worth it!!