Do any of you keep your trees in 100% pumice?

Yugen

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@fredman Noice research! So it isnt zero... but not far from it eh... I wonder if akadama has a bette CEC than clay in your attached list..
 

John P.

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These roots:
304A7792-4DD8-4905-A8F3-BF371277060E.jpeg

were made in 100% pumice since the “tree” was this big:
12CE597C-2DC4-475B-B23A-A2240284F54D.jpeg

So who knows. I’ve also grown other ficus in 100% pumice. Probably wouldn’t do it with maples or elms, but would think olives would be fine.
 

fredman

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Shima

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I'm using pumice and orchid seedling bark. Perfect size.
 

RKatzin

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I understand this having been in horticulture most of my 70 years, But if you choose the materials well and repot when you need to, it is not a problem.
Yes, I saw this in large grow boxes where the trees were left to grow for 3-5yrs, some as long as 7yrs. I tried different mediums, some pure turface mvp, some mixed with various organics, some in pumice/turf mixes, and some in just pumice.
In smaller pots and repotting at regular intervals you probably won't see the separation as pronounced as long term growing out.
 

RKatzin

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These roots:
View attachment 301169

were made in 100% pumice since the “tree” was this big:
View attachment 301171

So who knows. I’ve also grown other ficus in 100% pumice. Probably wouldn’t do it with maples or elms, but would think olives would be fine.
I have dozens of maples growing in pure pumice. Also Hawthorne, Ginko, Hornbeam, linden, Hinoki, junipers, birch, beech, oaks, elms and others.
 

John P.

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I have dozens of maples growing in pure pumice. Also Hawthorne, Ginko, Hornbeam, linden, Hinoki, junipers, birch, beech, oaks, elms and others.

You’re in beautiful Oregon. I’m in coastal Southern California. I’ve tried it with pre-bonsai maples, but would be concerned to try it in a bonsai pot here. I’d add bark.
 

fredman

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You’re in beautiful Oregon. I’m in coastal Southern California. I’ve tried it with pre-bonsai maples, but would be concerned to try it in a bonsai pot here. I’d add bark.
I'm interested to know why you would add bark John?
 

RKatzin

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You’re in beautiful Oregon. I’m in coastal Southern California. I’ve tried it with pre-bonsai maples, but would be concerned to try it in a bonsai pot here. I’d add bark.
A broad generalization on climates. You probably have much higher humidity than Southern Oregon, at least where I'm located, east of the Intercostal mountains. Our summers are hot and very arid. Usually zero precipitation from June through September.
I have yet to see any tree take a dive after repotting into just pumice. Trees that were not doing so well in mixed medium showed marked improvement. I contribute this to overall healthier root mass.
 

Mike Corazzi

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I now create my own "mix" of .....potting soil.
40 % or so small (not fine) pumice in the potting soil that's fir bark, worm castings and some other stuff.
So my "potting soil" really isn't.

It keeps the PS from becoming a black sponge.

Oh yeah...forgot. It's NOT what I called pumice for the substrate. It's the additive.
 

fredman

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I guess just my impression that it retains moisture a bit more than pumice.
Surprisingly pumice contains more moisture..and holds on to it for longer than pine bark. I did a simple test by wetting and weighing and it sure did surprise me.
I always added bark to have a organic fracture in there. Now i'll add it to better the CEC.
 

Shima

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To prevent burning surface roots on warm days I have shredded sphagnum on all bonsai. Just a few hours with an open mix can result in cooked roots.
 
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