Collected a tamarack
- Thread starter Javaman4373
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Javaman4373
Shohin
I am not sure where to go with this tree. I was considering a chop just inches above the old chop and making the branch going right the new leader. Alternatively, I would like a branch going to the left in that section of open trunk in the space below your red mark. There is a new branch started on the trunk there this spring.I was also thinking about making a graft using that branch to theright to go around and to the left. I wanted to possibly make the tree shorter and give more taper to the trunk. The tamaracks in bogs are almost all straight trunks with fairly horizontal branches and a narrow over all silhouette. A bog often has many dead snags and trees with dead tops. Tamaracks will also grow on just moist soils like the one below, that is near our pond or even on well drained soils. In nature I guess you would say they assume the formal upright style usually.
LeatherTree23
Yamadori
I am not familiar with larch horticulture but if you want your new branch to grow and look proportionate to the rest of the branches, I would think that keeping the “vigor” of the apex checked would be a good idea. I would need to do more searching on larch bonsai training to get an idea on process for that. But possibly cutting the trunk at the next branch up and then wiring it to be your new leader could work. (I’ll highlight in blue)
Personally, I like your first chop site. It looks nicely healed.
Personally, I like your first chop site. It looks nicely healed.
LeatherTree23
Yamadori
You could cut at either branch. The right hand option would give a change in direction = more interest AND prevent your new branch from being shaded out 
Javaman4373
Shohin
Update and question on the tamarack in post 37. I decided to attempt an air layer of the top half of the tree and see if I can make two shorter trees out of this specimen. I started the air layer in early spring. I have the usual clear plastic wrap stuffed with sphagnum moss and covered it with a black plastic wrap. I inspected it today and found a couple of small roots on one side. The foliage above the air layer is showing quite a bit of needle browning, although there is also some new needle growth, indicating it not just dying off. So I repacked the top portion with some fresh moss and closed it up again. My question is: it has been a hot summer and is it possible the black plastic might cause the air layer to get too hot and that might discourage roots with this species? The temperatures could easily far exceed those these trees would experience in the waters of a bog and it is a tree that thrives in cold climates. I am inclined to open the black plastic so that it only shields the air layer from direct sunlight, but does not trap heat. Any opinions?
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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Heat is always a concern with plants. For majority of plants, temps in the 75 F to 85 F is what is used for heated rooting beds at commercial nurseries. "Bottom Heat with Mist" is a phrase often cited in propagation manuals as a recommended technique. But larch are northern temperate trees with one of the furthest north ranges of trees in North America. In its native range, average soil temps seldom rise much over 65 or 70 F even in a hot summer, at least that is my assumption from the handful of bogs I have walked thru. A cranberry bog in Wisconsin is mighty chilly even in July. So a possible inhibition to rooting might well be heat for your larch, as it is a short summer cool temperate climate tree.
If the black plastic is allowing the media of the air layer to heat above 80 or 85 F, that may well be a problem. Try aluminum foil instead to exclude light and create shade for the future root site.
Javaman4373
Shohin
I took Leo's advice and removed the black plastic and replaced it with aluminum foil. Now, in just one month, I have some nice roots, at least on one side of the air layer. The next question is whether to separate it this fall or over winter the air layer to get more roots next growing season. I don't know if the roots I have in the air layer now can survive the cold of our winters, considering the larch is a very cold tolerant tree. I am assuming the time to separate it this fall would be after the needle drop, when the foliage can no longer be supplying auxin to push root growth. So many questions and decisions.
Javaman4373
Shohin
I have another issue with the air layer on this larch. The branches in the air layer are pushing their buds, noticeably swelling. The branches below the air layer are not doing this. Going into winter doesn't seem a good time for this. I normally see the buds swelling like this in the early spring. Here are images of the selling buds and the roots emerging from only one side of the girdle.
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Vincent Tanner
Shohin
I’m developing some collected Larch and this is a fun thread to read through. Thanks for posting all the updates along the way.
Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
Id separate the layer. Seems to have enough roots. That way you can treat the layer and the rest of the tree per each of their needs.
Javaman4373
Shohin
I lean toward separating this air layer before winter. If I do, the next question is when? Should I wait until the needles drop and the tree is going into dormancy. We have been having quite warm fall days so far. Temps have reached 80 F. I am sure I don't want those developing budds to push out green needles before winter.
Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
Id separate it now.
Javaman4373
Shohin
I did it today. photos in a thread under the Forum Other Conifers.
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