Chainsaw Cutting/Carving Wheel for Grinder

[AaronThomas]

I would highly recommend the Arbortech tool

My only concern with the Arbortech is that it doesn't look like it will get into tight places.

 

[AaronThomas]

I have a die grinder

John how many rpms? Looking at a corded Dewalt 25000rpm... not sure the extra 300rps is worth the extra$$$

 

[johnbaz]

John how many rpms? Looking at a corded Dewalt 25000rpm... not sure the extra 300rps is worth the extra$$$

I think it's 30,000rpm from memory Aaron

 

[BrianBay9]

My only concern with the Arbortech is that it doesn't look like it will get into tight places.

niether will that chainsaw wheel. I was just comparing the two. I think one needs a tool for removing large amounts of wood, and then at least one other to get into the tight places.

 

[Trenthany]

I've had an arbortech mini grinder for years. https://www.arbortechtools.com/us/mini-carver-range/
The original blades dulled very quick but could be sharpened with a chainsaw file. The newer tungsten tip blades have done a lot of work and still cut well. Good for bulk removal but still a bit limited in tight spots.
The larger version fits straight on an angle grinder and takes off a lot of wood but even more limited in tighter spots.
After bulk carving move to the dremel or similar for finer work or to get into tight spots. Still looking for a good carving bit for it though.

Dremel has rasp type bits I believe. Am I wrong or are they just terrible for bonsai? I have done zero carving so take it for what it’s worth but got a set a few years back and I think it has some rasps in it.

 

[AaronThomas]

niether will that chainsaw wheel.

Correct... that's why the die grinder conversation started.
Probably the best bet for removing a lot of material in tight places.
Though the Arbortech is so dam cool! LOL Love watching the promo video.

 

[Shibui]

Dremel has rasp type bits I believe. Am I wrong or are they just terrible for bonsai? I have done zero carving so take it for what it’s worth but got a set a few years back and I think it has some rasps in it.

Most of the standard bits in a dremel pack are not useful for carving bonsai but they do have a large range of other shapes and sizes of cutters as optional accessories that work well for adding detail. The round burrs/rasps seem to work best for me.
Definitely not for bulk wood removal - fine detail only after the bulk has been done.
I don't think there is any tool that will do it all in all circumstances. I use the arbortech to start, for bulk carving and to hollow large cuts after chopping. Then I follow up with a dremel type rotary tool for the hard to reach spots and to finish. Still looking for a suitable die grinder with enough power to run the newer carving bits so I can't make any useful contribution on that discussion, just that they look good and I see plenty of positive reports.
While Dremel is the original there are now a number of companies making these small rotary carving tools. I have killed 3 of them with very little use. Not sure if I got a 'Friday' model but the more expensive dremel quit after less use than the cheaper alternatives. They are not designed to do hard work, just detail and light sanding.

 

[AaronThomas]

The round burrs/rasps seem to work best for me.

Agreed! I bought these cheap on Ebay sometime ago and they have held up surprisingly well. They are great for fine detail work and carving concave depressions on chops. Found the key is to let the Dremel do the work for you... push too hard and they will just burn the material your removing... slow and steady wins every time. Ideal speed is 30k rpm to 35k rpm.

 

[Trenthany]

Most of the standard bits in a dremel pack are not useful for carving bonsai but they do have a large range of other shapes and sizes of cutters as optional accessories that work well for adding detail. The round burrs/rasps seem to work best for me.
Definitely not for bulk wood removal - fine detail only after the bulk has been done.
I don't think there is any tool that will do it all in all circumstances. I use the arbortech to start, for bulk carving and to hollow large cuts after chopping. Then I follow up with a dremel type rotary tool for the hard to reach spots and to finish. Still looking for a suitable die grinder with enough power to run the newer carving bits so I can't make any useful contribution on that discussion, just that they look good and I see plenty of positive reports.
While Dremel is the original there are now a number of companies making these small rotary carving tools. I have killed 3 of them with very little use. Not sure if I got a 'Friday' model but the more expensive dremel quit after less use than the cheaper alternatives. They are not designed to do hard work, just detail and light sanding.

Have you looked into pneumatic? Holds up to grinding metal. Biggest problem would probably be slowing the rpms far enough.

 

[leatherback]

I bought these cheap on Ebay sometime ago and they have held up surprisingly well.

The bottom ones.. Any specific seller? These look really usefull.

What helps is to do the coarse work when the would is still frehs, setting the outline with a cutter like the bonsai nibbler or other 3 proned carving bit. Then let the wood dry out a few weeks and do the finer work. I find the rasps clog way less on dried wood.

Added benefit: Small cracks will form and you can use these as guides for carving.

 

[AaronThomas]

@leatherback PM sent!

 

[johnbaz]

Hi all

I lost the right hand trunk on this collected Cotoneaster this year so I made a bit of a feature of it!!

I had to saw a large part off as it would have taken forever with my Dremel type rotary tool

The little rotary tool did really well and got in to places the die grinder couldn't!

I ended up dulling the tool badly and felt I was wasting my time (And probably destroying the electronic tool) so I got the bigger one out and stuck a half round router cutter in!! It was a bit 'bitey' but finished the job!

When I brought this tree home in 2014 the two trunks had been split, Seemingly for quite some time so I filled the void with white Milliput epoxy putty, I removed this and there was still a gap which I thought looked rather ok but may probably rot down there now!!

The edges were all dead and have been for some time so I lime Sulphured it right after I finished carving (No live veins to worry about poisoning), It was still wet when I took some pics, Hopefully it will have dried later today

The whole of the front of the tree has been dead for years so I stripped the bark top to bottom and applied the Lime Sulphur, The livepart is at the rear!

Cheers, John