Calling all crab apple experts.

For your crab I would select as many of the thickest ones on the top of the tree and remove them clean off the trunk leaving just one main trunk that shows taper. To me trunk is everything . Ive always followed my own rule of enjoying what flowers there might be while removing wherever I can. The trees can handle that. YEs, if you chop it will break buds from the cut back.
 
If I remember correctly from my nursery days these have white flowers.

Interesting trees, so many varieties. I find though that most bloom with a bit or a lot of pink, then turn white EXCEPT for the Snowdrift which is a solid white start to finish with abundant flora. This is a Dolgo Russian at first pink as most are going white in a few days as are most kept in full sun potted.


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Nice plants but as Cherries there is a lot of flower petal "litter" :P

Grimmy
 
Interesting trees, so many varieties. I find though that most bloom with a bit or a lot of pink, then turn white EXCEPT for the Snowdrift which is a solid white start to finish with abundant flora. This is a Dolgo Russian at first pink as most are going white in a few days as are most kept in full sun potted.


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Nice plants but as Cherries there is a lot of flower petal "litter" :p

Grimmy
We had 2 hen pheasants stay under a giant blue spruce a few winters ago. They came out every day and ate the crab apples under our 2 trees. One was called red emperor or something like that the other was called prairie fire.
 
Just an update on this crab apple here it is just before some more work to it.
And as you can see I have rotated it 180° from last years pic.
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So the work me and harry Harrington carried out to this tree was to clean up a few of the scars into uro and we dropped the lowest branch on the right.
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We also removed a branch just above the one on the right and cleaned that up into a uro in the hope that one of the small shoots just above this will take and I can eventually use one of those to fill in the gap created.
This is a view from the back now I know the shape may be slightly more appealing right now but there are some bad branches in the apex and some scars from an old trunk chop there that are visible from this side.
But the option to work the apex and scaring is still there for next fall so this could be left as an option for a future front before its final pot is selected in a few seasons time.
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We had 2 hen pheasants stay under a giant blue spruce a few winters ago. They came out every day and ate the crab apples under our 2 trees. One was called red emperor or something like that the other was called prairie fire.
You named the pheasants?
?
 
I'm air layering my crabapple now. I've got about another six weeks or so to wait, hopefully it's successful.
 
Th

Thanks, helps me feel a little better knowing they layer well.
No worries I've never actually done it myself on a crab apple but I have with my apple tree in the garden and that worked well and I separated that from start to separating 4 to 5 months and there where loads of roots.
 
What sort of shape pot and glaze would all of you lot choose for a future pot for this tree.
Its current pot was brought as a training pot and although a nice pot in itself I feel it's far too heavy and strong for this trees future say in 2 to 5 years time when I have refined it a bit more and got a bit more of a natural and ages look the the tree
 
My two from evergreen garden works are shipping on Monday. I'll need all the help I can get! Venturing out of my comfort zone.
I have a Louisa shipping in June from him. I can’t wait.
 
What sort of shape pot and glaze would all of you lot choose for a future pot for this tree.
Its current pot was brought as a training pot and although a nice pot in itself I feel it's far too heavy and strong for this trees future say in 2 to 5 years time when I have refined it a bit more and got a bit more of a natural and ages look the the tree

Light blue oval with a very thin lip and simple feet
 
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