Bucida Spinosa

markyscott said:
Hi Japonicus - this is the one. It’s patiently waiting for summer in my greenhouse right now.

S
Click to expand...
Perhaps another thread on it somewhere, but your modesty...
I didn't find reference to the event/correlation in this thread, so had to ask :)
Nice honors
 
A bit more detail wiring and touch-up pruning. Pads and the broad, domed apex are better defined now. Looking at these pictures, it seems like the right branch can come down a little more. Still, it’s looking pretty sharp - I may put it in the fall show.

16AB5857-0C51-4497-A4D6-F596582AB4D4.jpeg
 
What an amazing specimen! You have certainly pulled out the essential beauty and mystery on this one.
Something to aspire to. :D

Scott - do you have any current pics on this bucida spinosa? (2020-ish)
 
ysobelle said:
What an amazing specimen! You have certainly pulled out the essential beauty and mystery on this one.
Something to aspire to. :D

Scott - do you have any current pics on this bucida spinosa? (2020-ish)
Click to expand...

thank you. I’ll take one tomorrow.

- s
 
Hey Scott -
if I may ask - these Black Olives tend to produce a plethora of short spiky vertical stalks, in addition to those large vertical leaders you mentioned in your earlier post. When you are cleaning and pruning, how do you determine which of those little spiky growths to remain vs. which to clean/ thin out?
 
markyscott said:
Here it is. Front, back and side.
View attachment 298310View attachment 298309View attachment 298311
Click to expand...
Hey Scott -
if I may ask - these Black Olives tend to produce a plethora of short spiky vertical stalks, in addition to those large vertical leaders you mentioned in your earlier post. When you are cleaning and pruning, how do you determine which of those little spiky growths to remain vs. which to clean/ thin out?
 
ysobelle said:
Hey Scott -
if I may ask - these Black Olives tend to produce a plethora of short spiky vertical stalks, in addition to those large vertical leaders you mentioned in your earlier post. When you are cleaning and pruning, how do you determine which of those little spiky growths to remain vs. which to clean/ thin out?
Click to expand...

Sorry to have missed your question. I manage these trees appropriate to the stage of development. When you’re developing branches, grow it in full sun and in coarse soil (1/4” - 3/8”) and let the shoots grow out long. I let them grow wild and very long as you see in the picures of the early development. Then wire, cut back where appropriate, and thin to two shoots all in one go. You can do this throughout the late spring and summer when the tree is in active growth. I would imagine you can repeat this a couple of times in your area. In refinement, I grow in finer soil (1/8” - 1/4”) and I don't let them grow out as much. The spikes will generally come out in threes and each spike will set a node with foliage at the tip. If I’m trying to extend the branch, I’ll let it extend a bit, then cut back and thin to two shoots. If it’s too coarse (if the internodes are too long) and I’m trying to keep the area compact, I’ll let it extend a bit, then cut back to the new leaves at the base of the spiky growth. It will generally send a new shoot later, but it will be more compact with more closely spaced internodes and you can then you can thin to two shoots.

Hope that helps.

Scott
 
markyscott said:
Sorry to have missed your question. I manage these trees appropriate to the stage of development. When you’re developing branches, grow it in full sun and in coarse soil (1/4” - 3/8”) and let the shoots grow out long. I let them grow wild and very long as you see in the picures of the early development. Then wire, cut back where appropriate, and thin to two shoots all in one go. You can do this throughout the late spring and summer when the tree is in active growth. I would imagine you can repeat this a couple of times in your area. In refinement, I grow in finer soil (1/8” - 1/4”) and I don't let them grow out as much. The spikes will generally come out in threes and each spike will set a node with foliage at the tip. If I’m trying to extend the branch, I’ll let it extend a bit, then cut back and thin to two shoots. If it’s too coarse (if the internodes are too long) and I’m trying to keep the area compact, I’ll let it extend a bit, then cut back to the new leaves at the base of the spiky growth. It will generally send a new shoot later, but it will be more compact with more closely spaced internodes and you can then you can thin to two shoots.

Hope that helps.

Scott
Click to expand...
Yes - this is GREAT information! I had one that was still in formative stage and I managed to kill it - not sure if it was too much fertilizer or too much water. It started to go rust colored (leaves) - and not just the random yellow leaf here and there. So I don't know if it was going into a semi-annual rest period (never had done this before)... so I was afraid I had poisoned the soil so I did an emergency repot (in winter -bad, I know)... but took care not to disturb the roots too much just replaced about 2/3 of the soil. Even under grow lights - in the end, it was a DOA. Now I have several new Bucida to experiment with that I got shipped up from Florida. So I want to arm myself with good knowledge and good intentions toward the trees. :) You are very gracious to share your knowledge, experience and the photos of the development stages. I am very grateful!
Kathy
 
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