Bonsai shortcuts

misfit11

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In a recent thread, someone had referred to a certain bonsai technique as cheating. Everyone is entitled to his/her opinion. I disagreed. This got me to thinking about which techniques in bonsai I considered "cheating". I couldn't come up with any. Many people, for instance, consider tanuki or phoenix grafts as cheating. In Japan they get little respect and aren't allowed in formal shows. Tanukis are not allowed to be shown at the Redwood Empire Bonsai Society Annual Show. I personally think it's B.S. but maybe its because I'm not the purist that I should be.

All bonsai is illusion. Everything we do to our trees is in the intention of creating the illusion of an ancient tree in a small pot. From creating deadwood with hand or power tools to wiring branches, there are few techniques in bonsai that couldn't be viewed by some as "unnatural". Most enthusiasts would agree that true age is little importance to the quality of a bonsai tree. Although a truly old tree is an amazing accomplishment, the illusion of great age is the real goal. So whatever techniques are necessary to get there, as far as I'm concerned, are fair game. I remember Jim Gremel saying during a demo that if he could make bonsai in 15 minutes he would.

Depending on your point of view, some may see buying a "finished" show tree as cheating. I mean, you didn't put the time and effort to get that tree to that stage, right? Some may see collecting ancient conifers with tons of natural deadwood and character as cheating. You didn't create that either. What about grafting?

I'm curious about how others feel about this. Are there some techniques in bonsai that are simply shortcuts and not worthy?

Cory
 
To me they are all techniques that one can and should use like tools in a tool box as needed. :)

Like you, I am after the result...the method is irrelevant (to me).
 
I use a leaf blower instead of a rake :rolleyes: The methods are different but one is more efficient... :cool:
 
I am with you to some extent Cory. Everything we do to get our trees to a finished state is unnatural and if the end result is as good with using "cheating" techniques than so be it. I mean in terms of shortcuts, high chemical fertilization, modern substrate, and the like are getting us to the goal faster but I wouldn't consider that cheating.

In terms of tanuki, if you are able to get the image to look presentable and old why not? I would caution however, that it be disclosed as a tanuki and not let's say a 200 year old collected juniper.
 
Personally, the only issue that that might bother me is people entering trees in an exhibition where most or all of the work was recently done by another individual. However, if someone buys a tree that has had all the styling done, then after a few years or more, they want to show it, that is ok. Simply because after this time, they would have had to refine, maybe repot and rewire. I am just not a fan of someone having all the work done by a well known artist, then entering the tree that year or the next.

Rob
 
Personally, the only issue that that might bother me is people entering trees in an exhibition where most or all of the work was recently done by another individual. I am just not a fan of someone having all the work done by a well known artist, then entering the tree that year or the next.

Rob

Yes. I agree that could be considered cheating. In fact, that is probably the worst kind of cheating of all, plagarism. In that case you would be taking credit for someone elses work.

As I get more into this hobby the more I consider buying material that is further along in it's development. I used to kind of think of buying more developed material as... well... cheating.:o But now I realize the time required to get trees to that more refined stage. I guess I just want more instant gratification. However, if I do buy something that is more "finished" I still want to put my mark on it and make it mine.
 
Wondering about, not so much the Cheating, but what might happen to the tree.

Heavy to over fertilisation, if it does not kill the plant, will probably give weaker wood, low density, and may lead to a lot more insect and fungal etc. attacks.

So-called modern soils ? How modern really? and once again, does it really benefit the tree ?

I guess my only question is do you really care about your trees or are they just things to show off or pin medals on the chest?

As to dead wood, that is just too much care, in watering direction, applications of various stabilizers, and ultimately, the wood will still decay and that for me is just too much bother.
Good Evening.
Anthony
 
Cheating might be a strong word. However, in the bonsai world, entering other's work is a reality. Unless the contest is specifically for "the workers".

As far as buying more developed material. I don't think that it is an issue of buying material that has had some work done already, but more about buying higher grade material and knowing what to do with it. For example. You see many masters that have a very old, very rough, untouched piece of material in front of them. In one styling, the tree is practically looking like a world class tree. In essence, it was not that the tree had any real refinement done prior to this, it was the caliber of the material itself. However, sometimes, these trees sit around for years in their possession and when the tree has a ton of foliage, then they decide to work on it.

Of course, the availability of good material and high prices are 2 things that will affect the quality of what we work on.

Rob
 
Wondering about, not so much the Cheating, but what might happen to the tree.

Heavy to over fertilisation, if it does not kill the plant, will probably give weaker wood, low density, and may lead to a lot more insect and fungal etc. attacks.

So-called modern soils ? How modern really? and once again, does it really benefit the tree ?

I guess my only question is do you really care about your trees or are they just things to show off or pin medals on the chest?

As to dead wood, that is just too much care, in watering direction, applications of various stabilizers, and ultimately, the wood will still decay and that for me is just too much bother.
Good Evening.
Anthony

How does ANY of the above relate to the question posed in the OP?
 
The methods are different but one is more efficient...

and polluting, and noisy, and unneighborly, since most people blow their leaves into the street or next door. (Glad I do not have neighbors.)
 
Its all about illusion!!

I agree completely with you...it is all about illusion and the end product justifies the means...there are no cheating techniques at all...only poorly applied techniques most of the time.

In Japan they get little respect and aren't allowed in formal shows.

I believe this is not a true statement... I don't have the evidence personally, but I have been told by very reliable source(s) that there are many tanukis that are displayed in the top shows in Japan...they are just well done!!

If tanuki is problem for you then grafted branches should be as well??? Just doesn't make sense...its all in the craftsmanship and the end results...no cheating techniques...just good bonsai and not so good.

John
 
and polluting, and noisy, and unneighborly, since most people blow their leaves into the street or next door. (Glad I do not have neighbors.)

I live on five and a half acres surrounded by a trout steam, woods, and farmland. I use the blower to clear the crushed stone areas and I am happy not to have neighbors :p
 
How does ANY of the above relate to the question posed in the OP?

Prolly because the questions were unanswerable. Few, if any, "shortcuts" in bonsai result in stellar trees.

TIME will tell.
 
Prolly because the questions were unanswerable. Few, if any, "shortcuts" in bonsai result in stellar trees.

TIME will tell.

The question is...what do you consider shortcuts? Everyone here probably have a different definition.

At one point, I've read some consider doing a trunk chop a shortcut and the only way to do a "proper" bonsai is to grow it from a seed or small cutting and train it each step of the way. I've read that, an identifiable scar and worse an unhealed wound is a "travesty". Now deadwood is in most show winners. Funny thing is, the collected yamadori show exact same "defects" but is accepted. :rolleyes:

Again, where do you/we draw the line? Is trunk splitting & bending a shortcut? Is grafting? Layering? Fusing? etc.

For me, it technically doesn't matter since I do not believe the need for distinction. I take the shortest route possible that I know and yes, time will tell if any of my trees ever come out okay or not. If not, I believe it is not because of the route I took but my lack of artistry.

Even potentially stellar trees can be ruined (or created)...it doesn't matter how you do it...fast or slow. Just my 2 cents.
 
Hi All

I'm a relative noob, but I fail to see the point of tanukis.

There are lots of other shortcuts I would be happy to take, but screwing a whip to some piece of wood and photographing (only) from a specific side seems pointless to me.

Then again, I don't like big deadwood conifers either, so maybe my education is just defective :-P

TIME will tell.

If everything was burning and I could just grab one tree it would be a broom style Chinese Elm from an air layer removed last season - it's far from my best tree, but it's the one I enjoy the most.

Since most bonsai are show ready 1% of their lives, what's the point of anything instant - it'll need work 2 weeks later!

To each his/her own :cool:

Gerhard
 
Dario,

the only way to grow - 1 - type of tree from seed, note I said 1 type, would be to first grow x number for say 10 years.

Trying to figure out when to cut for the trunk thickness, and then at the same time work out how long to get the branches into proportion, whilst the trunk will continue to thicken. Ditto goes for the branchlets, but wait I forgot, if the tree has surface roots and how to keep them in proportion.

Add on that most likely each seed is an individual and will respond individually, and if the ground and weather conditions don't vary too much. Insects also help and so on.

Is there really any quick way to gain enough knowledge to become efficient in producing - decent - designs, forget above average or exceptional ?

Plus, as I stated before, it is unwise to grow a tree, beyond the speed or stage where the wood can mature properly, and with durability.
It normally takes 50 years for wood that is considered durable [ teak for example ] to mature to an inedible stage.
Buttonwood for example, never gains any durability to termites, just a hard wood.
Good Morning.
Anthony.

* My first statement was to get you folks thinking.
 
Since most bonsai are show ready 1% of their lives, what's the point of anything instant - it'll need work 2 weeks later!

To each his/her own :cool:
I think you missed the point. It is not about shows, though it could be for some. The shortcuts (at least I am talking about) are structural in nature and those doesn't change in 2 weeks. Getting things faster doesn't mean instant either.

You are right. To each his own. :)
 
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A tanuki. I put this together (with glue!) 12 years ago. It is 11 inches tall.

Do I show it? Not often, and I always ID it.

This picture is 4-5 years old. It's a "bit" overgrown right now.
 

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Personally, the only issue that that might bother me is people entering trees in an exhibition where most or all of the work was recently done by another individual.

I don't really care who enters the tree. Of the few trees I've exhibited, I never had to sign an affidavit that I did all the work. I just like to see the best trees available. Are bonsai exhibitions about showing the best tree or who can do the best work?
 
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