Blue spruce HELP!

[Backwardsvg]

Ya I think I will I just would love to figure a way to better hide it / thicken it so it more so evens out in a way haha

 

[Backwardsvg]

Tons of buds everywhere tons of back buds and new buds on the trunk. It’s a very happy tree.

Wondering if I wait till next spring to shorten the longer branches back to the new back buds?

Also still worried about the graft to bury it would be pretty deep which wouldn’t leave much room for roots in a pot. We’ll see

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Pretty much can cut these back now. However…

We usually wait until fall to maximize the amount of sugars and starches gathered during the year. If one waits until next spring when the tree is active, energy is being pruned with each cut.

Cant make out the graft.

cheers
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[Backwardsvg]

@Deep Sea Diver thank you I will wait to cut them back to the buds I want till maybe September October I’d guess?

With the graft it’s pretty apparent in person. But maybe it’ll even out over time

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

For now think snout future styling.

Sonys When you cut back try to keep two buds

Cheers
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[Backwardsvg]

When I do reduce the branching back to two buds how much can I reduce? Like 1/3 of branches or more or less? It is a very healthy tree

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Conifers usually shift to root growth during summer and don’t pick up posit branch growth until later in the year.

So if one was to prune hard now, this would impact the root growth. Trimming a little is ok, but big cut backs, I’d wait until at least the weather turns, perhaps early October…. depending on the local weather..

Cheers
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[Backwardsvg]

How much can you prune back safely about 1/3? Thanks @Deep Sea Diver

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

In the fall, with no scorching heat, maybe 1/3 for a first time on a first pruned tree.

Actually one could cut it back to the innermost bud… yet that wouldn’t leave a safety factor for the tree if that bud failed, so count up 2-3 buds and see how that looks.

For a better overview… or if in doubt… Think about getting pipe cleaners and twisting then on their respective branches at that mark all over the tree.

Then step back and see what the tree would look like if it were printed to these points.

Adjust as needed for health and style. Sounds dorky but it works for small - med trees

Cheer
DSD sends

 

[Backwardsvg]

@Deep Sea Diver ya I cut it basically in half late winter and it’s done incredibly well. Tons of roots and insane amounts of buds / back buds.

The only issue is this was a Home Depot tree so it’s got a lot of growth far from the trunk. But now it has tons of great buds close or on the trunk. So maybe this year in October or so I’ll cut back some to get it closer while leaving life and then the next year cut back further etc.

Thanks!

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Sounds like a plan.

if thinning out extraneous branches isn’t on the worklist, this might be number one on the list, opening up sunlight and air to the remaining branches.

cheers
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[Backwardsvg]

I took some pics so you can see what I’m seeing. I put some ideas of where I may cut. I just want to start pulling things closer to the trunk. Thanks @Deep Sea Diver

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

From what is shown this is a good practice tree. It does need shortening and wiring an apex upwards. Yet not sure I see a clear primary - secondary structure below the cut back from these images. Yet I usually need a tree in front of me before determining this. Perhaps someone else can visualize this better.

Anyways after the top cut and the lower shortening, it seems the foliar mass needs to be left alone to push the remaining buds and gain energy before doing much else. Likely there will be a few obvious cuts here and there, but not to push back.

Grow out the buds, especially the ones placed at the base of thicker branches that are out of design width. These may be future branches, ensuring the tree has taper as the height increases.

Once this is accomplished in a couple years, go back and prune to create a clean basic primary structure for the tree.… …taking the main structure down to twos... bifurcations throughout,…. Counting the trunk and only one other branch while ensure there is enough foliar mass to keep the tree strong and robust.

Then go down each branch and prune to create an alternating branch pattern.

While doing this think about how to clean up the nebari for the next repot.

Ensure the tree has maximum health and proper nebari structure, primary structure as the first steps In building a bonsai. Doing so gives one time to explore options.

Cheers
DSD sends

cheers

 

[kodiac]

I've had many blue spruce and killed many blue spruce. They are very cold hardy but they do need proper timing for work/repotting especially in the northern climates. They need time to establish roots to and get ready for winter. Patience was the hardest thing for me to learn when it comes to pines and it's something one must learn on there own.. usually on on path of dead trees.That being said sometimes it's ok to break the rules especially with a cheap tree. Knowledge is priceless