Best insecticides (sprays, systemics etc) for hibiscus that the ants&aphids aggressively colonize?

[Leo in N E Illinois]

The insecticide in Merit 3 in 1 is imidaproclid, Bonide and others have their own formulations with the same ingredient. For non-food plants, it is effective, fairly long residual activity, weeks, as opposed to the more typical days.

Pyrethrins have fairly good knock down effect, but generally break down in less then 24 hours in sunlight. Often a second ingredient is added to Pyrethrins to boost the knock down, and extend residual activity to 2 or 3 days. The synthetic pyrethrins, often chlorinated, have good short and medium term killing power. Mavrik Liquid and Decathlon WP are two of these that I have used.

I have many plants beyond just the bonsai. I found doing a tank mix of a pesticide like Mavrik, works really well if I included a miticide, such as Pentac WP, and a Juvenile Growth Hormone Distruptor, for example Enstar II. Enstar II is expensive, over $100 usd, but the 4 once bottle will treat a 1000 plant collection at least 6 times. Very low dose needed. Two treatments, 14 days apart with the 3 component mix and the collection will stay clean for 6 months or more.

That is what I do.

As always, read labels before you buy, to make certain that what you use is appropriate for you, and will kill your target pest and use only the label recommended dose rate.

 

[SU2]

The insecticide in Merit 3 in 1 is imidaproclid, Bonide and others have their own formulations with the same ingredient. For non-food plants, it is effective, fairly long residual activity, weeks, as opposed to the more typical days.

Pyrethrins have fairly good knock down effect, but generally break down in less then 24 hours in sunlight. Often a second ingredient is added to Pyrethrins to boost the knock down, and extend residual activity to 2 or 3 days. The synthetic pyrethrins, often chlorinated, have good short and medium term killing power. Mavrik Liquid and Decathlon WP are two of these that I have used.

I have many plants beyond just the bonsai. I found doing a tank mix of a pesticide like Mavrik, works really well if I included a miticide, such as Pentac WP, and a Juvenile Growth Hormone Distruptor, for example Enstar II. Enstar II is expensive, over $100 usd, but the 4 once bottle will treat a 1000 plant collection at least 6 times. Very low dose needed. Two treatments, 14 days apart with the 3 component mix and the collection will stay clean for 6 months or more.

That is what I do.

As always, read labels before you buy, to make certain that what you use is appropriate for you, and will kill your target pest and use only the label recommended dose rate.

Thanks a ton that's very VERY useful

 

[defra]

Cant help you get rid of your problem but i am curious how your hibiscus tree's look like tough

 

[SU2]

Cant help you get rid of your problem but i am curious how your hibiscus tree's look like tough

I'm sorry but don't get what you mean? Most of them look pretty damn ragged though I can tell you that lol! Have pics of course but unsure what you mean here

I just cut-back a bunch of them this past week and am about to re-pot one today, really want to get them going I think I could get far more out of this specie than I did this past year!!

 

[defra]

I'm sorry but don't get what you mean? Most of them look pretty damn ragged though I can tell you that lol! Have pics of course but unsure what you mean here

I just cut-back a bunch of them this past week and am about to re-pot one today, really want to get them going I think I could get far more out of this specie than I did this past year!!

Please share some pics is what i mean i have a rather large hibiscus syriacus and i like to see other people their attempts in trying to create a hibiscus bonsai

 

[SU2]

It does stick around for a bit but I have found that for the most part it is most present in the tree itself as opposed to the soil. I believe that the myco treatment helps but that’s also why I don’t do 3:1 all the time like some will. IMO it’s best to do 3:1 treatments in groups then leave it. I’ll only treat with 3:1 every other season but will use it for 3 straight fertilizing periods (once a week for 3 weeks). Also can help to put a vitamin treatment after 3:1.. not sure why just my experience

Fascinating, I had no idea 3-in-1 hurt myco, am VERY glad I've yet to use mine then!!!

I'm curious about something though, I mean if it hurts myco I certainly understand minimizing/avoiding its usage, but when you use it why would you use it 3wks in a row? Isn't it supposed to be active much longer than 7 days? Is your approach related to protecting the supple new growth? I ask that because you mention it alongside fertilizer, am wondering if you do it because you're really hyper-feeding and have lots of supple/susceptible growth that you're protecting- am very very eager to hear anything further you could share on your approach & reasoning here!

And am unsure what you mean by vitamin treatment...like a minerals blend? I use a timed-release minerals product as most of my collection are bougies, which are susceptible to iron & magnsm deficiencies..

 

[SU2]

Please share some pics is what i mean i have a rather large hibiscus syriacus and i like to see other people their attempts in trying to create a hibiscus bonsai

Oh I gotcha!! It's dark out so will snap some tomorrow, I actually just hard-pruned most/all of my (small) hibiscus stock so you'll get to see structure more than anything (one's a root-over-rock that I think will end up being very cool!!)

 

[SU2]

Please share some pics is what i mean i have a rather large hibiscus syriacus and i like to see other people their attempts in trying to create a hibiscus bonsai

IME they back-bud on old hardwood very readily when chopped, I've been meaning to get a fat trunked one but just haven't found the one yet, anyways here's some pics of a few the first two pics are different angles of the only hibiscus I have *and* like lol, the other pic is two more that I've got and am unsure what on earth to do with! The first one is root-over-rock if it's not obvi from the picture ;D Am about to re-plant it in a shallow, rectangular mortar bonsai container, think it'll look a lot better, that box is too chunky it overpowers the tree!

 

[defra]

Nice !
I got this fat trunk dug up out of our front garden in 2016 they backbud very well yes and grow fast !

If you pay attention you will notice that the first few internodes are closer to each other then farther up the shoots at least thats the case with mine
Here is the topic on my hibiscus

https://bonsainut.com/threads/hibiscus-syriacus.24818/

 

[tree3]

Please share some pics is what i mean i have a rather large hibiscus syriacus and i like to see other people their attempts in trying to create a hibiscus bonsai

I just started 2 young hibiscus bonsai. They went through an adjustment phase of 3 weeks in which they looked droopy, but I left a few leaves on them to monitor their progress. Now they are growing like crazy. I'm just concerned with fattening up the trunk now, so no bonsai pot for them just yet. They are in regular pots. If you want I can post some pictures, just let me know you're there.

 

[defra]

I just started 2 young hibiscus bonsai. They went through an adjustment phase of 3 weeks in which they looked droopy, but I left a few leaves on them to monitor their progress. Now they are growing like crazy. I'm just concerned with fattening up the trunk now, so no bonsai pot for them just yet. They are in regular pots. If you want I can post some pictures, just let me know you're there.

Then please do post some pics!
My big guy is in a big plastic crate

 

[tree3]

Well, it's a bit embarrassing because they are actually saplings

 

[defra]

Well, it's a bit embarrassing because they are actually saplings

Ah lol
Then post a progression in a year or 10

 

[tree3]

Then please do post some pics!
My big guy is in a big plastic crate

It's young but I'm really proud because it survived an adjustment period.

 

[tree3]

Ah lol
Then post a progression in a year or 10

Just posted.And I'll be using the 'trunk chop' method to thicken the trunk and work a taper.

 

[defra]

Just posted.And I'll be using the 'trunk chop' method to thicken the trunk and work a taper.

Looking good and they are prety tough!
did you look at my thread i posted here ?
My experience tought me they heal wounds very poor so make sure you dont let it grow to thick before the chop and make sure you aply cut paste on the wounds .

Also they bulge up prety quick when there is growth in the crotches of branches so keep an eye on that to prevent it to grow reverse taper, you can already see what i mean at your pic where the trunk splits in two

 

[tree3]

Looking good and they are prety tough!
did you look at my thread i posted here ?
My experience tought me they heal wounds very poor so make sure you dont let it grow to thick before the chop and make sure you aply cut paste on the wounds .

Also they bulge up prety quick when there is growth in the crotches of branches so keep an eye on that to prevent it to grow reverse taper, you can already see what i mean at your pic where the trunk splits in two

So you recommend a chop there?

 

[tree3]

Looking good and they are prety tough!
did you look at my thread i posted here ?
My experience tought me they heal wounds very poor so make sure you dont let it grow to thick before the chop and make sure you aply cut paste on the wounds .

Also they bulge up prety quick when there is growth in the crotches of branches so keep an eye on that to prevent it to grow reverse taper, you can already see what i mean at your pic where the trunk splits in two

Or eliminate the one side branch eliminate the bulge

 

[defra]

Example what i mean:




The point where the branch ataches to the teunk bulges up fast trough growth coming from the crotches

To grow movement and taper i would chop below the split actualy
But it also depends on the style you are going to persuit
I chop mine down late winter/early spring before bud break

 

[tree3]

Example what i mean:

View attachment 209181View attachment 209182
View attachment 209183

The point where the branch ataches to the teunk bulges up fast trough growth coming from the crotches

To grow movement and taper i would chop below the split actualy
But it also depends on the style you are going to persuit
I chop mine down late winter/early spring before bud break

Yours is enormous. I was reading some of those bulges can actually be carved down. Also read that it only becomes a problem if you're absolutely sure the base of the trunk will be much thinner than the top. Since mine is too young, I might wait. I also read bulging coming from the crutches is a natural occurrence.