Before I cut on my WP today...

"I see moss on the soil. Is this bright green powdery looking stuff moss?"

NO:eek:! Stuff on soil is insidious weed not moss:mad:. Carefully pull out with tweezers or pliers. If showing green balls on end of foliage is seed pods. Disturb as little as possible. VERY hard to get rid of so be diligent and do not allow to produce tiny white flowers! Personally have hemostat just for removing such weeds with persistent rootstock and crown.
 
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Also would suggest cutting trunk just above #7 branch(just below branch inside bend). Trunk very thin/little taper will help some but only little. Most benefit will come from compacting upper tree;). Keep all others even if not strictly by rules. Much needed to keep from tree being too sparse
 
per the Master series Book on Pines

Didn't read all the back and forth but this book sounds SUSPECT AS HELL!

Maybe someone knows better, when was it published?
Does it specify different care for different pines at least?

Sorce
 
With pines, you should try to keep branches if possible. For sure you have to eliminate whorls, but if a branch is on the inside of a curve, can you find away to use it? Turn it to the back, or front?

White pines are slow growing. Only eliminate branches if there is no other choice.

I would try to wire and position every branch, and only cut back or remove if the branch is too long.

Do you know why the rule of thumb is to remove branches on the inside curves? Branches on inside curves tend to build more wood on the inside of curves! So, the curves on the trunk appear to thicken up on the inside of the curve, thus making the trunk look straighter
 
Didn't read all the back and forth but this book sounds SUSPECT AS HELL!

Maybe someone knows better, when was it published?
Does it specify different care for different pines at least?

Sorce
The “book” is a collection of magazine articles translated from Japanese to English about JWP and JBP. Lots of different authors, styles, and techniques. Some of which contradict each other!

If you already know what you are doing with pines, the book can be helpful to expand your knowledge. If you are a beginner with pines, you can easily get get confused and misled!

The books is broken into two sections: one for JWP and the other for JBP.
 
"I see moss on the soil. Is this bright green powdery looking stuff moss?"

NO:eek:! Stuff on soil is insidious weed not moss:mad:. Carefully pull out with tweezers or pliers. If showing green balls on end of foliage is seed pods. Disturb as little as possible. VERY hard to get rid of so be diligent and do not allow to produce tiny white flowers! Personally have hemostat just for removing such weeds with persistent rootstock and crown.
Yeh I pretty much knew the Chrysothrix (TN Jim ID'd) was lichen, and as I looked it up, probably candelaris, looks close.
It's been coming on slowly, and as mentioned "Also, the green growth, I would like to get under control". It just isn't pleasing
to me myself. My question you're quoting here, is in response to the broad reply I received, moss and lichen.
I was not being absolutely serious there.

It's the "colony" I felt was in need of immediate concern and treatment/removal on each of the two trees.
My mistake on the soil, that is concerning, and not the only tree in my collection to have this insidious weed.
Thanks for the heads up, good catch.
 
Didn't read all the back and forth but this book sounds SUSPECT AS HELL!

Maybe someone knows better, when was it published?
Does it specify different care for different pines at least?

Sorce
At least, it does, but mostly differentiating WP and BP.
It identifies several by bark, and by foliage which is nice, and gives a couple examples of reputable enthusiasts/artists
on their own work, restyling, repotting etc...
2005, a division of Stone Lantern Discoveries.
With pines, you should try to keep branches if possible. For sure you have to eliminate whorls, but if a branch is on the inside of a curve, can you find away to use it? Turn it to the back, or front?

White pines are slow growing. Only eliminate branches if there is no other choice.

I would try to wire and position every branch, and only cut back or remove if the branch is too long.

Do you know why the rule of thumb is to remove branches on the inside curves? Branches on inside curves tend to build more wood on the inside of curves! So, the curves on the trunk appear to thicken up on the inside of the curve, thus making the trunk look straighter
Thumbs up, this is why I started this thread in my mind, until I saw this colony type growth
and felt it should supersede any cuts I would inquire about. This is the main tree I planned to take
to John Ramano's class last Fall for direction, till the trip was scrubbed. So makes sense it would
show up here with questions on care.

Obviously, I agree with Potawatomi on the taper, thus the remark I made about possibly removing the apex
prior to his post.
I've had a loose wire on it to remind me to remove it last 2 Winters, then decided to get Johns ideas before
I did so, when it comes to repurposing which branch as the new apex, as well as maintenance overall.
I've got this far on my own with what I had to work with, and bare branches, and yes, need to complete wiring,
it won't and cannot all happen on a whim, so it is under construction.
Looking forward to making some changes based on your input.
I am inclined to remove the apex when vigour returns, but am afraid of damaging the trunk attempting
to repurpose a branch as the new apex. It's been a while since I felt a trunk snap under my palms.
Not a good feeling.
 
Ok I guess before I say anything else . I would suggest going and watching Colin Lewis wiring tutorials on craftsy.com
Nice. I've always thought a tree should be completed, but have never completed the wiring
on an entire tree in a day beyond a "small" tree. Starting with the largest wire and working down
is a fantastic idea. I can relate, as I've had sizes getting in the way.
No idea if I'll ever be able to say my wiring, is my paint brush used to paint the bonsai.
That's just asking an awful lot of an inexperienced applicateur as myself. Much to learn.

Is Colin Lewis Scottish? Sounds like Sean Connery
 
I believe so he resides in the north east now . Just keep watching it will all make sense after yo do it a few times , wire everything ! At the right time of course !
 
Didn't read all the back and forth but this book sounds SUSPECT AS HELL!

Maybe someone knows better, when was it published?
Does it specify different care for different pines at least?

Sorce

Believe is Stone Lantern book on White and Black pines. Specific to these two;).
 
"I see moss on the soil. Is this bright green powdery looking stuff moss?"

NO:eek:! Stuff on soil is insidious weed not moss:mad:. Carefully pull out with tweezers or pliers. If showing green balls on end of foliage is seed pods. Disturb as little as possible. VERY hard to get rid of so be diligent and do not allow to produce tiny white flowers! Personally have hemostat just for removing such weeds with persistent rootstock and crown.
So my soils surface is like viewing an aquarium that has been let go to grow bryopsis and hair algae. Bryopsis is
difficult to control, can come in by means of new material including feces, snail, coral or rock from an affected source, and hair algae is due to poor care on one or many fronts, perhaps something as simple as water source, maybe a complex reason.

Today I decided to work on 1/4 of the surface at a time. Spent about an hour, and if as insidious as you say
I've no doubt it will be back. Took pics of before and aft. Seems like where there was moss on the soil
this weed came out by the roots a little bit easier, still a bear. Should it persist, do we ever use an herbicide painted on?
Unfortunately this doesn't appear to be a broad leaf weed, so at least I'm manually removing it at this time.
Can anyone link a good ID chart for pests and diseases we may encounter?
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Did you re-wire , this one looks pretty good !! ??
No, was done this past Fall. Was outdoors when weeding this evening, and my cuff caught a 1.25"
long piece of bark and just lightly peeled it away. It was on so loosely it coulda blown off I think.
 
Super glue the bark back on ?... seriously

The moss on the trunk dab with vinegar using a q tip wait for it to brown and dry up , then use tweezers to remove it ?
 
Super glue the bark back on ?... seriously

The moss on the trunk dab with vinegar using a q tip wait for it to brown and dry up , then use tweezers to remove it ?
I will glue it on, may try wood glue 1st. It's a piece where "newer" bark had been growing for years behind it
given the newly exposed barks' aged look and texture. I had read the vinegar trick in another forum last year.
Distilled white ok? I have a gallon of that.
 
Bryopsis..? Really? Whatever it is, is it really hurting the tree? Either way it depends on water to reproduce and function to a degree much higher than your tree.
 
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