I was thinking... rotate like this, graft the middle branch lower.
View attachment 87028
After that, just create ramification and decandle in december. And then wire when the new shoots have hardened off.
I really need help on this!
I couldn't figure out what rt meant. But sounds like good advice.No need to graft. Keep 1st rt, 2nd rt and 2nd left(outside of bend)branches cut above 2nd rt and use that branch to develop apex. Do this AFTER it has grown out for the season to have solar panels(needles)for strength. Cannot see back branches but personally would avoid any growing from same place as one of these others. Keep on the outside of a bend unless absolutely needed to fill space. Then do as much as possible to make that branch interesting. Should make bends in young thin branches as many have mentioned brittleness of Red pine. If a break happens don't despair. Leave at that position and see if it lives, let it heal and move forward. Can make a more interesting accidental bend that way.
This makes all the sense in the world. The three top candles were massive. The producer showed me and cut candles to make them all equal size to balance energy and then do a full candle pruning in December. This year I am going to take his advice, even if it is not the best. For next year I hope to have my own plan.If all things are equal, @barrosinc, the top of the tree will always become more vigorous and the lower branches will become weak. So, you must make the apex weak for lower branches/grafts to grow.
I will get the pics today, thanks Sorce.How bout some more pictures?
Close ups of offending areas?
A top down shot?
Let's get a good look at what you got going on!
I want to live another summer thru you!
Sorce
duh... right... obviously. I was thinking two words.Right.
Sorce
sorta semi cascade
blogging... yeah I have been working on it, I have it... the setup for that pic was a one minute thing with a collapsible backdrop.@barrosinc I think you're on the right track with this tree. And BTW, congrats on a nice photo setup. Looks like you'll be all set to start blogging!
Leaning it over is never a bad idea, pick the front and the angle to maximize the movement in the trunk and to avoid any horizontal or vertical lines.
As Sorce mentioned - you can compact the top by bending it down. The partial candle removal in spring is well-documented for balancing of the most-vigorous 10% of the shoots with the rest of the tree. Depending on your summer weather and the vigor you may or may not want to decandle the tree in December/January. The reasoning goes like this:
IF you need longer branches, then consider letting some things go without decandling. But, on a vigorous tree like this you may only want to do that in a few places. You'll want to make sure you wire those sections in fall to keep them from being too straight. Using decandling will create more wiggles in the branching ultimately, but will make it take longer to produce longer branches. Obviously, anything that you see as needing to stay compact you should decandle.
It looks like there are a couple scars and it also appears you may have a whorl at the top. You should gradually reduce any whorls over time, allowing the tree to produce new growth equal to the branching that you remove.
I don't think you need a graft, but I like tall elegant pines.
Yes, fertilize heavily now (its getting toward fall in Chile and your tree's new growth is hardened), but use lots of nitrogen - at least as much as P and K. Nitrogen is essential for budding. We feed little or no nitrogen in spring so that the new growth nodes are short. You would use 0:10:10, or nothing at all, in the spring. Give it nitrogen, now (10:10:10 to 16:10:10).Should I fertilize heaviliy now? Should I fertilize with 0:10:10 a couple times?
Thanks! Always so helpful.Yes, fertilize heavily now (its getting toward fall in Chile and your tree's new growth is hardened), but use lots of nitrogen - at least as much as P and K. Nitrogen is essential for budding. We feed little or no nitrogen in spring so that the new growth nodes are short. You would use 0:10:10, or nothing at all, in the spring. Give it nitrogen, now (10:10:10 to 16:10:10).