Arakawa Maple

Nice arakawa Mellow. Nice to see lately so many pop up on this forum. Can't beat this cultivar that exhibits such character on the bark against the delicate and colorful leaves. Very nice work on the flaring base. Personally, the slight reverse taper does not bother me as I think arakawa, because of its rough bark, is a bit more forgiving in this regard as opposed to the normally smooth textured bark of most other cultivars. However, I'd love to see the wiring being applied a bit more neatly. I would work towards making sure your wire is snug against the branch without being too tight. Your tree will look better and the wire will be even more effective.

As your tree develops, I would turn the branch ends slightly up as this will give you a more natural looking deciduous tree. This is entirely a matter of taste, as some folks like to design their deciduous bonsai to look like conifers.

I have been studying your maples and I plan on bending the ends upward when I wire the new growth. It was really a mess when I started and I wanted to get it growing more out and instead of straight up. Do you think I made it too flat? I don't want it to look like a conifer.

The reverse taper is not as noticeable in person and is only really apparent from one angle. I don't mind it either, lots of trees in nature don't have the best taper.
 
I was thinking of ground layer to fix the reverse taper until I see the flare base
 
"The Merlot did not help much either" don't tell us that this did the photo trick also!
 
I have been studying your maples and I plan on bending the ends upward when I wire the new growth. It was really a mess when I started and I wanted to get it growing more out and instead of straight up. Do you think I made it too flat? I don't want it to look like a conifer.

The reverse taper is not as noticeable in person and is only really apparent from one angle. I don't mind it either, lots of trees in nature don't have the best taper.


No worries Mellow, I think it is fine but I would turn your tips slightly up. See below for a quick progression on mine.


Tree before styling.





Tree after styling. Branches in this case wired down with the ends turning slightly up. The next new growth is wired the same way, downwards and then slightly up. This will ultimately create the gentle, undulating lines typical of deciduous branches.





Here the more rounded and wider canopy is developing with branches again gently facing up.

 
Yeah, pour me something tall and strong, make it a hurricane before...the spring comes.o_O
 
A little more than a month later, this is what I have. It seems to really like the new pot. I spent most of the morning removing the wire as most of it was starting to bite.

DSC03225-1.jpg

DSC03228-1.jpg

Be careful when taking off the wire, I broke this one off, as well as a couple of smaller ones.

DSC03227-1.jpg

My question is, what now? Do I cut back? Do I wait? @Smoke , @MACH5 , @Adair M , what say you? Or, anyone else who wants to offer something up.

John
 
Ok, so you took off the wire you placed during the winter?

Ok, here's the way they do it in Japan:

Look at your new shoots. Where they start, some of them will be "up/down" pairs, some will be "side by side" pairs.

On the "up/down" pairs, remove the "down" shoot. It should have been removed before now. Better late than never. This leaves a new branch growing upwards, right? Keep it with its leaves on. You're going to wire this branch down with aluminum wire. Kinda fat aluminum. Cuts in less. When you wire the soft green shoots, you can carefully put in little undulations, up:down:left:right. You don't need to wire to the end, just maybe 5 or 6 inches.

On the side-by-sides, you can keep both, or eliminate one. Wire them too. The green shoots. 5 or 6 inches.

This wire will only need to be on for 4 weeks or so. By then, your little curves will have lignified. Remove wire. Cut back to one or two internodes! Preferably an up/down pair.

Let grow until you have 5 or 6 new pair of leaves, wire again...

See the Ebihara Maples thread. Peter Tea's blog when he was in Japan has it, too.
 
Ok, so you took off the wire you placed during the winter?

Ok, here's the way they do it in Japan:

Look at your new shoots. Where they start, some of them will be "up/down" pairs, some will be "side by side" pairs.

On the "up/down" pairs, remove the "down" shoot. It should have been removed before now. Better late than never. This leaves a new branch growing upwards, right? Keep it with its leaves on. You're going to wire this branch down with aluminum wire. Kinda fat aluminum. Cuts in less. When you wire the soft green shoots, you can carefully put in little undulations, up:down:left:right. You don't need to wire to the end, just maybe 5 or 6 inches.

On the side-by-sides, you can keep both, or eliminate one. Wire them too. The green shoots. 5 or 6 inches.

This wire will only need to be on for 4 weeks or so. By then, your little curves will have lignified. Remove wire. Cut back to one or two internodes! Preferably an up/down pair.

Let grow until you have 5 or 6 new pair of leaves, wire again...

See the Ebihara Maples thread. Peter Tea's blog when he was in Japan has it, too.

Thanks Adair, I usually put some wire on it when the leaves drop but I did not have time so I put it on at the repot. I don't think I will try that again.

I have been studying Scott's thread and those by Mach5. I think I will give it a go today.
 
Thanks Adair, I usually put some wire on it when the leaves drop but I did not have time so I put it on at the repot. I don't think I will try that again.

I have been studying Scott's thread and those by Mach5. I think I will give it a go today.


John, nothing wrong with wiring at the time of repot or a bit before also.
 
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