Al Keppler's Tips for Better Bonsai

Putting the tree on the bottom of the pot... mind blown. So elegant. Why have I never thought of that.
Where was this list and particularly: Don’t clean out the good stuff, eight years ago for me? It took almost four seasons to figure it out.
Humic acid, I know what I’m getting tomorrow.
The wiring size tip will come in handy.

Can anyone point me to an instructable about bending with pliers? I’ve seen videos of it but the details of what is being done and what you are trying to accomplish were lacklustre at best.

Thanks for this write up. It will be a useful read every once in a while as a reminder of good practices.
 
Putting the tree on the bottom of the pot... mind blown. So elegant. Why have I never thought of that.
Where was this list and particularly: Don’t clean out the good stuff, eight years ago for me? It took almost four seasons to figure it out.
Humic acid, I know what I’m getting tomorrow.
The wiring size tip will come in handy.

Can anyone point me to an instructable about bending with pliers? I’ve seen videos of it but the details of what is being done and what you are trying to accomplish were lacklustre at best.

Thanks for this write up. It will be a useful read every once in a while as a reminder of good practices.
The idea behind bending with pliers is you bend the wire, not the branch.

Especially with copper wire. Copper work hardens so when you bend it, it stiffens. By using pliers, you are able to focus the bend to a very specific portion of the wire. that little portion stiffens and holds.

By using fingers and thumbs, the bend is spread out over more wire, so it doesn’t stiffen and hold as well.
 
I get the idea behind it. I have tried it. I don’t think I was doing it correctly. I have done a lot of different things with pliers, some of them were probably not recommended by Better Homes and Gardens. I am either overthinking what I should be doing or just daft.

Should I be holding the pliers parallel to the wire I am gripping, 90° or somewhere in between? Am I twisting the pliers or am I moving them in a motion like they are a pry bar? Am I only trying to bend a couple millimeters or a couple centimetres? If only using one pair of pliers, where should your fingers be to support the branch? If using two pair, where should the second one be? I can see a hundred ways to bend the wire, and they all bend the branch to some degree but none of them work very well.
 
Thank you immensely. Thats a lot of concise meat to put down into words.

Thank you.
 
Fly in the ointment -

https://www.gardenmyths.com/humus-does-not-exist-says-new-study/

https://www.gardenmyths.com/what-is-humus/

excerpt --
Does Humus Exist?
This section was added March 2016.

I wrote the above in 2013, and at the time it was the latest information available. In December of 2015, a new study was published that drastically changes our understanding of humus. It concludes that humus does not really exist. Humus is created when soil is treated with a pH solution, but it never occurs in soil.

For a detailed review of this finding, have a look at Humus Does Not Exist – Says a New Study.
 
Fly in the ointment -

https://www.gardenmyths.com/humus-does-not-exist-says-new-study/

https://www.gardenmyths.com/what-is-humus/

excerpt --
Does Humus Exist?
This section was added March 2016.

I wrote the above in 2013, and at the time it was the latest information available. In December of 2015, a new study was published that drastically changes our understanding of humus. It concludes that humus does not really exist. Humus is created when soil is treated with a pH solution, but it never occurs in soil.

For a detailed review of this finding, have a look at Humus Does Not Exist – Says a New Study.
That does it exist article was a brutal read. And it’s wrong. Everything I have read tonight says humus is heavily broken down organic matter. Saying something only exists after it’s treated at pH13 doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist at a lower pH. It seems that blog post is just trying to say “we don’t know what humus is because we can’t single out one chemical that makes humus so it must not exist”, but who knows because it was such a badly written article. That part to justify the results using gravity waves is a false analogy, among other things. Using a single article as proof is never going to convince me of much. Using an article behind a paywall even less so.
 
Should I be holding the pliers parallel to the wire I am gripping, 90° or somewhere in between? Am I twisting the pliers or am I moving them in a motion like they are a pry bar? Am I only trying to bend a couple millimeters or a couple centimetres? If only using one pair of pliers, where should your fingers be to support the branch? If using two pair, where should the second one be? I can see a hundred ways to bend the wire, and they all bend the branch to some degree but none of them work very well.
If I work with pliers, I use two yin pliers, held paralel to eachother, just a few mm apart, perpendicular to the branch at the spot I want to bend. Then I hold the one nearest to the trunk steady, and twist/rotate the one nearer the end of the branch. This creates a very local bend in the wire.
 
Great points from beginning to end, Al. It took me close to 20 years to gather, figure out and apply everything in that first post that takes maybe 5 minutes to read... perhaps longer to digest but it's all there. Pure gold for people wanting to improve their game.
 
Jin pliers, for example...
TMS5-2.jpg
One pair to hold a wire right below the place you want to bend and one right above. When bending this way, always have wire on the outside of bend.
 
Thanks Peter @petegreg !
I was suspecting it was a typo and what Jelle really meant to write was "jin" instead of "yin"
However, I thought I would ask for confirmation because I don't know much about tools in general :p
 
Good stuff Al. Might save people from having to learn it the hard way over many years as I did. I thank you also for turning me on to humic acid a number of years ago. It works!
 
Thank you for posting. I'm interested in your use of Humic Acid. How often do you apply and at what strength?
 
That does it exist article was a brutal read. And it’s wrong. Everything I have read tonight says humus is heavily broken down organic matter. Saying something only exists after it’s treated at pH13 doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist at a lower pH. It seems that blog post is just trying to say “we don’t know what humus is because we can’t single out one chemical that makes humus so it must not exist”, but who knows because it was such a badly written article. That part to justify the results using gravity waves is a false analogy, among other things. Using a single article as proof is never going to convince me of much. Using an article behind a paywall even less so.
Many years ago, maybe as much as fifty according to the guys I used to hang out with, John Naka, Harry Hirao, Bruce Hasayasu, Ernie Kuo, Richard Ota, Hatanaka and the like were using organic in their bonsai soil. These men were true bonsai pioneers on the West coast. That is what we used 50 years ago. There is nothing wrong with using organics in your soil as long as you follow a few simple rules. I will get to that in a moment. Around the mid 1960's Japanese red soil became available to the USA. Know one knows exactly who was the first to get such an import, but I do know that old timers in Fresno were using J. red soil (as it was called) during most of the 70's here. They were using LAVA, PUMICE AND RED SOIL, long before it became known as Boon Mix. In fact I was using that mix in 1984 when I started because thats what everyone here was using. I was buying akadama for 15.00 a bag. So back to the story. About the mid 60's a story came out in some gardening magazine about the nitrogen robbing effects of humus in gardening soil. Compost is not the same as humus because compost has fully decomposed and is no longer "hot", meaning that it's nitrogen robbing properties are gone. Humus on the other hand is a bark product treated with chemicals used to facilitate the decomposition process in the garden to "turn" it into compost. It is during this "turning" that it is hot and requires huge amounts of nitrogen to decompose.

Like everything in bonsai, or any hobby, there are those that do a hobby well and make landmark discoveries within the hobby but because they do not have a International name or even a National name, their work is over looked or for the most part these discoveries remain regional or even in a small community, never reaching the main stream. The internet has opened up great vista's within the community. So I talk about planting on the bottom of the pot with no soil. Big deal, a few say wow that's neat. If Ryan Neil talked about that on a video there would be seven threads here the day after and everyone would be calling him a genius.

So, over the next several years wood products found their way out of bonsai soil mixes and substitutes were tried, given up on, new things tried, haydite, turface and swimming pool filter media (DE). Then the red soil was around. During the late Fifties and sixties, John Naka was going back and fourth to Japan and meeting with masters there, furthering bonsai within America and busy mixing cultures and finding new ideas. I suspect Japanese red soil was one of them. It is available there like a bag of potting soil here. So now the red soil is being used in America for those privy to its availability. John Naka was doing the workshop circuit all during the sixties and seventies and was in Fresno at least once a month. I am sure that is how it became so prevelent in the California bonsai culture.

So now we have come full circle. The products that were widely available then are not so much easy to come by nor affordable. The internet has built a large bonsai culture into every nook and cranny of America and much of it longs for wire, tools, pots, plants, and soil.
So use what you can get easily, just use things that have a long shelf life in the soil. Fir bark and wood nuggets will last for plenty of time before the next repotting. There is nothing that will happen to your tree and you will do just as well as those using 100.00 dollar per pound soil. There will always be those that will pound hard the way it has to be done, but frankly if I cant tell any difference in the way my tree grows using pumice lava and akadama over shredded tires, then I'm not making a fuss.

I was using seedling size orchid bark but have been finding that hard to find now. Recently I found something even better. In the reptile section of the pet store I began using reptile bedding. It is graded and sifted to exactly 1/4 inch size and is the exact size I needed for my soil base component I buy in Sacramento. Pictures and story to follow soon.
 
Last edited:
I get the idea behind it. I have tried it. I don’t think I was doing it correctly. I have done a lot of different things with pliers, some of them were probably not recommended by Better Homes and Gardens. I am either overthinking what I should be doing or just daft.

Should I be holding the pliers parallel to the wire I am gripping, 90° or somewhere in between? Am I twisting the pliers or am I moving them in a motion like they are a pry bar? Am I only trying to bend a couple millimeters or a couple centimetres? If only using one pair of pliers, where should your fingers be to support the branch? If using two pair, where should the second one be? I can see a hundred ways to bend the wire, and they all bend the branch to some degree but none of them work very well.

Your fingers aren’t supporting the branch. Just imagine you’re some kind of wire bending cyborg whose fingers have been replaced with cold metal pliers. I think you can look at it as one pair of pliers is supporting and anchor the branch (not moving) while the other pair is the one doing the bending.
 
I was using seedling size orchid bark but have been finding that hard to find now. Recently I found something even better. In the reptile section of the pet store I began using reptile bedding. It is graded and sifted to exactly 1/4 inch size and is the exact size I needed for my soil base component I buy in Sacramento. Pictures and story to follow soon.

Thanks for this list of tips Al, it really is invaluable. And sorry for any slandering in precious threads.

I’m wondering is this reptile bedding is fir bark under the brand name Repti-Bark ? I was using this product for a couple years before I started using DE.
 
Back
Top Bottom