Air Layer Pods

[BrightsideB]

I purchased these two dwarf JM one a kuro hime and the other a sharps pygmy. I’m wanting to utilize the entire so I don’t want to cut branches I can layer off. The pods were perfect some places I could barely fit the small ones. I have some cuttings that rooted as well. I’m thinking of doing some forests with the layers and cuttings.

 

[penumbra]

So am I to understand that you succeeded in rooting some cuttings? I'd like to hear about that. It is still too early to do cttings here. Maybe in June I will have a chance.
Nice healthy looking maples by the way.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

I really like the idea of doing air layers with these pods. Yet it seems to me this system’s use would be restricted to forests and groups where the nebari wasn’t as important as a specimen tree.

A couple years ago I learned the hard way about how using a bag/bottle etc adds at least an extra year when air layering trees to do the root work to create a nebari. Without a disc or something to direct the roots out from top part of the ring the roots become tangled and near impossible to easily work the nebari into a proper shape without at least an extra years effort. Now, after the experience of root working quite a number of trees over the past couple years, I really just want to get an air layer product where one doesn’t have to fuss with the roots a lot.

In retrospect, early on in my lurking days I noted @sorce pointing this out a number of times, but I was so excited to just “do it” I didn’t take the future nebari into consideration. (In fact he actually went so far as to create a system of his own to solve this issue.)

Just a thought about the overall usefulness of thiese tools.

cheers
DSD Sends

 

[namnhi]

This is my first year trying the pod method. Easy on straight single trunk. Problem if you want clump or multi-trunks. I guess you could cut the top to make it opening wider. Also did the cup method.

 

[sorce]

a system

Aye thanks!

Here's the info, I reckon you could use a disk inside these pods.

Radialayer™ a season saver.

Nutters, You may have noticed I almost always jump to recommending airlayers. I don't think I will ever lose my fascination with the process. In attempts to perfect it, I have worked out some tweaks so it is time to share my method. I don't understand haphazardly throwing long...

www.bonsainut.com

Depending on the trees ability to "backrootbud", you only need the first single root distance flat, hell, that turn down after the first section could allow for a horizontal root snip, at the same level of the disk, thereby hiding the wound and allowing them proper root nexts to come out of the "top" of the cut root.


@namnhi that looks like the best black apple harvest ever!

Sorce

 

[andrewiles]

I really like the idea of doing air layers with these pods. Yet it seems to me this system’s use would be restricted to forests and groups where the nebari wasn’t as important as a specimen tree.

A couple years ago I learned the hard way about how using a bag/bottle etc adds at least an extra year when air layering trees to do the root work to create a nebari. Without a disc or something to direct the roots out from top part of the ring the roots become tangled and near impossible to easily work the nebari into a proper shape without at least an extra years effort. Now, after the experience of root working quite a number of trees over the past couple years, I really just want to get an air layer product where one doesn’t have to fuss with the roots a lot.

In retrospect, early on in my lurking days I noted @sorce pointing this out a number of times, but I was so excited to just “do it” I didn’t take the future nebari into consideration. (In fact he actually went so far as to create a system of his own to solve this issue.)

Just a thought about the overall usefulness of thiese tools.

cheers
DSD Sends

I've had the same concerns. First year of air layer experiments was last year and while it was successful I have a bunch of air layers with roots growing down and straight.

@Deep Sea Diver I thought you might appreciate this. I'm trying the pods this year with a 3d-printed plate inside to force the roots to move horizonally before reaching the edge, where they then get directed down. Since the roots past this drop will be pruned later anyways the direction change at the edge isn't a problem. As a bonus I can 3d print the plate to add some random radial directionality to the roots. First time trying this, so we'll see what happens .

First layer:

Same layer as above, with pumice:

Second layer showing a different style of plate. Used a bag on this one since the pod wouldn't fit.

 

[Srt8madness]

Ahhh hahaha if this works you could scale down and sell them.

Laughing because it's always fun to see someone using their toys to full effect

 

[BrightsideB]

So am I to understand that you succeeded in rooting some cuttings? I'd like to hear about that. It is still too early to do cttings here. Maybe in June I will have a chance.
Nice healthy looking maples by the way.

I took 6 and two rooted one of each. I had to cut a branch so I figured I’d try rooting them. I did it indoors with a hydroponic cloner machine and artificial light.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

I've had the same concerns. First year of air layer experiments was last year and while it was successful I have a bunch of air layers with roots growing down and straight.

@Deep Sea Diver I thought you might appreciate this. I'm trying the pods this year with a 3d-printed plate inside to force the roots to move horizonally before reaching the edge, where they then get directed down. Since the roots past this drop will be pruned later anyways the direction change at the edge isn't a problem. As a bonus I can 3d print the plate to add some random radial directionality to the roots. First time trying this, so we'll see what happens .

Simply Awesome!

Looks like you are a good way down the line towards getting a decent product. Not sure about the deep grooves on the second model as the young, soft roots may lay in and grow tight, but perhaps lighter, simply radial scoring.

Wondering, it two piece? I usually cut a one piece from an ice cream etc lid, but the disc really needs some sort of a lock-in system to keep it tight to the trunk for ease of use. …. and be adjustable. So round, adjustable to a range of sizes…. with an easy means to lockin. One might be able to get an angle lock-in to provide movement

Sorta like this mentioned in Meriggioli’s Bonsai Maple….yet round like your model…


Looking forward to seeing your results.

cheers
DSD sends