Aeroponic propagation of JM cuttings

[Piedmont Bonsai]

Interesting work, i am following this thread.

Not hydroponic, but ive had great success with japanese maple cuttings the past two years. I have found a method that works well for me. I hope to be able to share my method soon either via a detailed post or video.

Ibo nishiki aproximately 4 weeks from striking cutting



Nishiki gawa approximately 4 weeks from cutting



Seigen 4 weeks from cutting

 

[Sootys trees]

Interesting work, i am following this thread.

Not hydroponic, but ive had great success with japanese maple cuttings the past two years. I have found a method that works well for me. I hope to be able to share my method soon either via a detailed post or video.

Ibo nishiki aproximately 4 weeks from striking cutting
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Nishiki gawa approximately 4 weeks from cutting
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Seigen 4 weeks from cutting
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Thank you, it’s great to have yours and everyones experiences, I look forward to the video or post a lot.

Definitely a wide variety of techniques to this what with all the different cultivars, climates, locations and personal views on technique.

4 weeks is super fast from my perspective, I’m thinking bottom heat, regular misting and artificial light ?

I’m a bit undecided on after care once/if mine root, I’m going with an inert soil at the moment, 50/50 perlite and vermiculite or 50/50 perlite and coco coir. Then there’s position; I’m going to treat them as I would a cutting that I’d do without aeroponics; so outside in the shade with a humidity dome or plastic box for wind protection and moisture loss, regular misting until they look strong enough to be outside like any other tree.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

I'm interested in what others may define as successful? I've generally considered success if my cuttings leaf out the following spring. When many of you are using the various foliar sprays, fertilizer etc are you hoping for extra growth within the first year? Or just a really strong start to the next spring? Or something else?

 

[Piedmont Bonsai]

I'm interested in what others may define as successful? I've generally considered success if my cuttings leaf out the following spring. When many of you are using the various foliar sprays, fertilizer etc are you hoping for extra growth within the first year? Or just a really strong start to the next spring? Or something else?

Success for me is good root growth before going into dormancy. I fertilize with a low npk fertlizer that promotes root growth.

 

[MaxChavez]

Here's some photo updates. The top Acer Rubrum after only 2 weeks rooted well, although inside the collar. I've pushed it down a bit to let it grow for another week or so.
The European Hornbeam also had a lot of action in the collar. Though these have been in for 5 weeks!
Made some errors in upping the light and fried a few leaves. In a week or two, I'll do a full teardown and restart to test some theories.
I will say, I'm amazed how little wilting there has been even after 5 weeks(aside from my lighting error) I do pull one collar up just a tiny bit to get a bit of extra humidity up top.
In the next two weeks, I'll focus on feeding the mother plants to see the impact there!

 

[Sootys trees]

Here's some photo updates. The top Acer Rubrum after only 2 weeks rooted well, although inside the collar. I've pushed it down a bit to let it grow for another week or so.
The European Hornbeam also had a lot of action in the collar. Though these have been in for 5 weeks!
Made some errors in upping the light and fried a few leaves. In a week or two, I'll do a full teardown and restart to test some theories.
I will say, I'm amazed how little wilting there has been even after 5 weeks(aside from my lighting error) I do pull one collar up just a tiny bit to get a bit of extra humidity up top.
In the next two weeks, I'll focus on feeding the mother plants to see the impact there!
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Look great good work

I’ve read before that callus and therefore roots like the pressure of substrate pushing against where they’re forming.

2 weeks is extremely fast well done !
Under those dark petioles there is most likely a new bud ready to shoot given the thickness of the stem.
They look very plump and swollen so they’re definitely absorbing lots.

Regarding mother plants, I’ve one phoenix plant that has literally doubled in height since I received it in may, more than any of my other plants, and the cuttings from it literally had bumps and callus within a few days…

I’ve added many cultivars in since my last post, standard acer, phoenix, atropurpuream and some hawthorn.

I’ll put up some pics, one of the Sango kaku has pushed a small root but that’s about it lol, I’m hoping for all to show some roots soon

 

[Sootys trees]

This is the phoenix, has been in around 1-2 weeks, really progressing faster than anything else,




Sango kaku is coming up for 5 weeks on Saturday … the success is mixed, but all have retained leaves well and have calus and nubs…






Also note this single root has sprung over night so hopefully things are taking off.

Chiho hime little princess is the same, very swollen and splitting ready to push, I hope

 

[Piedmont Bonsai]

Thank you, it’s great to have yours and everyones experiences, I look forward to the video or post a lot.

Definitely a wide variety of techniques to this what with all the different cultivars, climates, locations and personal views on technique.

4 weeks is super fast from my perspective, I’m thinking bottom heat, regular misting and artificial light ?

I’m a bit undecided on after care once/if mine root, I’m going with an inert soil at the moment, 50/50 perlite and vermiculite or 50/50 perlite and coco coir. Then there’s position; I’m going to treat them as I would a cutting that I’d do without aeroponics; so outside in the shade with a humidity dome or plastic box for wind protection and moisture loss, regular misting until they look strong enough to be outside like any other tree.

I finally got around to writing a detailed guide on how I root Japanese maples. I even provided links to the products I use. check it out on my blog.
https://www.piedmontbonsai.com/blog

 

[Canada Bonsai]

I finally got around to writing a detailed guide on how I root Japanese maples. I even provided links to the products I use. check it out on my blog.
https://www.piedmontbonsai.com/blog

There is quite a bit of incorrect, misleading, and missing information in there, some due to the manner in which it’s expressed and some due to obvious inexperience in the area.

This process has been well-documented many times in this forum and others, on websites, and in magazines, books, and scholarly articles. The process is abundantly clear. I will never understand why every few years somebody comes along and feels the need to muddy the waters with a post like this.

 

[Jrmcmich]

There is quite a bit of incorrect, misleading, and missing information in there, some due to the manner in which it’s expressed and some due to obvious inexperience in the area.

This process has been well-documented many times in this forum and others, on websites, and in magazines, books, and scholarly articles. The process is abundantly clear. I will never understand why every few years somebody comes along and feels the need to muddy the waters with a post like this.

It seems like he’s had success with the method so sharing it seems fair to me. I have seen various methods with varying degrees of success so not seeing a problem with showing some success with his method.

 

[Sootys trees]

I finally got around to writing a detailed guide on how I root Japanese maples. I even provided links to the products I use. check it out on my blog.
https://www.piedmontbonsai.com/blog

good resource

I’m also trying a similar method to this right now with the same cultivars I’m using in the aeroponic propagator.
Cuttings are similar but I cut the leaves in half to retain moisture and fit them all in nice. I also retained the nodes at the base, some are buried with two nodes, others one.
I soaked the entire cutting in cool water, leaves and stems, then dried the base slightly before dipping in clonex gel for 5-10 minutes.
Substrate is 50/50 perlite and vermiculite, soaked then drained in the pot before making holes the depth I need the nodes.
they’re in a clear plastic tub with a lid in a north facing shed window, it gets the heat from the daytime and holds it constantly in the mid to high 20s. Even at night it nice and warm but doesn’t get unbearable.
I mist 1-2 times a day depending on turgidity of the leaves, sometimes they don’t need it.
I do air them daily when checking, just open the lid slightly to circulate some air and stop the mould.

After checking today around 2 weeks later, the stems are still fresh and green as are the leaves
There are multiple bumps along the stem and they look like it’s working well.

The only concern is light requirements, research on propagation of cuttings states a much higher concentration of light than my north facing shed window, but that was not for Japanese maples, so I’m hoping the moderate light will be enough given they don’t mind shade as a plant,
I did in fact check with a lux reader and it’s only 1/4 below my t5 propagator lamp, maybe even higher when the sun is lower down I don’t know.

I’ll keep updates on them but they will probably be much slower than expected, maybe months.

 

[namnhi]

There is quite a bit of incorrect, misleading, and missing information in there, some due to the manner in which it’s expressed and some due to obvious inexperience in the area.

This process has been well-documented many times in this forum and others, on websites, and in magazines, books, and scholarly articles. The process is abundantly clear. I will never understand why every few years somebody comes along and feels the need to muddy the waters with a post like this.

I see no harm in what he is doing. He should be commended for taking the time to do the write up and share his success with everyone else. This type of posts really is the reason why people reluctant to share... I bet piedmont bonsai must be feeling pretty GOOD for spending all that time documenting and writing then see this kind of comment. This is one where I believe if you don't like the content... you should just ignore.

 

[Sootys trees]

After weeding out a few rotten cuttings in the shed propagation bin today I discovered that some of the elms I took maybe a month or so ago have grown some nice roots, one with nice radial pattern.

I hear it’s one of the more easier species to cultivate but it’s one of my favourite plants so very happy…

I potted them individually as some didn’t make it and where in the same pot, don’t want them spreading any mould etc.

But they’re still in the bin, hopefully in a few weeks I can’t lightly fertilise and move them outside under the bench.

Here they are …

 

[Sootys trees]

As the roots are growing larger on various cuttings I’m thinking of the best way to pot out and care for them for the rest of the growing season.
It would be a bit disappointing to kill them all this stage so I’m aiming for optimum conditions.

Most cuttings in the aeroponic system have or are showing the beginnings of roots so once they’re 1 inch or more in length I’m planning to;

- pot them in small 9cm diameter pots with a 50/50 perlite and coco coir mix

- they’ll go outside in constant shade until there are signs of growth at which point I may introduce some sun for short periods. (by shade I mine a clear open sky above but out of any direct sun light)
To be precise my lux meter reads the specific location at around 1000 lux

- I’m simply putting them in a large clear stack and store box or plastic tote with the lid on but a slight gap one end for air.

- I’ll mist and water on appearance of soil and leaf moisture and condition.

- being in the south UK zone 9b, our day time temperatures can range from 18-28 this time of year but mostly fall in between those numbers in the low mid 20’s…
Night time can range from 12-18, maybe a few more degrees.

- I think that’s everything, apart from when to fertilise and what type or brand to use, which I do need some help with if anyone knows a good one ?

Any help and additional information I may be missing would be really helpful if anyone is interested please ?

 

[MaxChavez]

As the roots are growing larger on various cuttings I’m thinking of the best way to pot out and care for them for the rest of the growing season.
It would be a bit disappointing to kill them all this stage so I’m aiming for optimum conditions.

Most cuttings in the aeroponic system have or are showing the beginnings of roots so once they’re 1 inch or more in length I’m planning to;

- pot them in small 9cm diameter pots with a 50/50 perlite and coco coir mix

- they’ll go outside in constant shade until there are signs of growth at which point I may introduce some sun for short periods. (by shade I mine a clear open sky above but out of any direct sun light)
To be precise my lux meter reads the specific location at around 1000 lux

- I’m simply putting them in a large clear stack and store box or plastic tote with the lid on but a slight gap one end for air.

- I’ll mist and water on appearance of soil and leaf moisture and condition.

- being in the south UK zone 9b, our day time temperatures can range from 18-28 this time of year but mostly fall in between those numbers in the low mid 20’s…
Night time can range from 12-18, maybe a few more degrees.

- I think that’s everything, apart from when to fertilise and what type or brand to use, which I do need some help with if anyone knows a good one ?

Any help and additional information I may be missing would be really helpful if anyone is interested please ?

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Sounds like a pretty good plan. I have pretty similar temperatures and will make a pretty similar plan.
Since you have the lux meter, maybe check the lux in your clone area and match that with the outside. I would worry more about the humidity level than the light outside for the first 2 weeks.
Many folks seem to go water only for 2 weeks or so after transplant, then a fairly weak fertilizer. I like fish emulsion if you don't mind the smell!

Also, while it's still bare root can be a good time to wire some movement in the trunk, though next year should still be pretty flexible, as well

 

[Sootys trees]

Sounds like a pretty good plan. I have pretty similar temperatures and will make a pretty similar plan.
Since you have the lux meter, maybe check the lux in your clone area and match that with the outside. I would worry more about the humidity level than the light outside for the first 2 weeks.
Many folks seem to go water only for 2 weeks or so after transplant, then a fairly weak fertilizer. I like fish emulsion if you don't mind the smell!

Also, while it's still bare root can be a good time to wire some movement in the trunk, though next year should still be pretty flexible, as well

Great, it looks as though you have many more larger roots at the moment which will make them a lot more hardy I should think.
Regarding temperature the over night falls will be much lower than in the propagator I think, but nothing excessively low, and they have to adjust some time, they have to be hardy or they’re no good in the uk ha!

The lux meter is showing around 5-700 in the clone system (I’ve so many names for this thing ) , and it’s around 1000-1200 in the Shade outside so the positive increase is good for them too.

Wind and direct sun will be non existent and I’ll keep the lid on and mist when they need it, so all good there.

I don’t mind any bad smells if it means a fresh healthy cutting/plant, for now anyway lol.
But the natural fertiliser sounds like the best approach, after the 2 week window, thanks

Shaping also sounds good ! But think I’ll wait for next year if they make it through winter, right before bud burst when I pot them on

 

[Sootys trees]

Today I potted on a sango kaku cutting that I think is ready for soil.
It has two roots each an inch or so long.
I’m hoping the higher concentration of light from the shaded area of my garden will give it some vigour as opposed to the led grow light.
I’m guessing the temperature may be slightly lower than in the propagator, only a heat mat would solve that but I’ll try without for now.
There’s a nice amount of condensation inside the box so I’m happy they are nice and humid in there.




Also this elm cutting decided to spring a really nice strong root through the foam plug, it couldn’t be removed without snapping it, but luckily there was 3 more nice ones intact so stuck that in the box too.

 

[Sootys trees]

Many more cultivars in the propagator are showing root.
When I move them on to pots outside, I’ll be replacing them with others I have started in the more traditional substrate and plastic tub method, this should bring them up to speed and hopefully allow some vigour before autumn.

Little princess



Sango



In the shed I have many other species in perlite and vermiculite, also under a led in a north facing window.
Taxus
Forsythia
More elm
Azalea
Dozens of standard acer Palmatum
Fuji cherry (not looking so good but doing ok)
Fagus silvatica (surprisingly calusing and buds are swelling)
Also hawthorn
And dawn redwood

Plenty to experiment with….

Forsythia …

 

[Sootys trees]

Interestingly some of the maple cuttings in the shed which I struck around the same time as I the ones in the propagator have rooted already,
Some really thick furry roots have developed and are much better than the water roots in the propagator, so I’ve potted them on in the tray with the other success’s and left the rest to hopefully root later…

I’m pretty sure it’s the heat and humidity inside that box, coupled with the north facing window light and a larger white shop light about a few inches away on top of the lid…

Standard acer and atro acer…





A tiny little princess cutting showing roots twice its size…


Also Fuji cherry



Even some stone pine is callusing and beginning to root,
As is the beech, interestingly the juniper and azalea have done nothing

 

[Sootys trees]

I went ahead and potted on a few more cuttings from the propagator today,
The roots were not as long as some recommend from various research, but from my limited experience the roots tend to continue to elongate into the perlite and coco mix straight from the propagator so I’m not concerned, plus that’s where they should be anyway…

They’re receiving Light fertiliser and dappled early morning sun through a 40% shade cloth, still in a plastic box with the lid an inch or so lifted on one end,

I’m guessing new growth or vigour may take some weeks to show,
Does anyone have any information regarding how long new growth takes from rooted cuttings ? Specifically maple …

Elm seems to grow so easily, every time I look it’s reached a few millimetres or so …

Here’s some more pictures of sango to add to all the others