Activated carbon good for soil?

19Mateo83

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I recently got about 100lbs of activated carbon gifted to me. I’m wondering if it would be beneficial to start mixing it into my grow out mix similar to how horticultural charcoal is used. Any thoughts on positives or negatives to this plan and why?
 
Horticultural charcoal contains more leftovers than activated charcoal/carbon, but it breaks down in the same components.
Activated charcoal consists mostly of super tiny tube structures that can hold all kinds of chemicals, molecules and ions. Contrary to popular belief though, these things are not captured forever and will eventually leech out again.

So initially it will act as a nutrient and root exudate sink, while later on (3 months or so) it will become a source. It will provide somewhat the same type of carbon release to your soil as horticultural charcoal.
 
Horticultural charcoal contains more leftovers than activated charcoal/carbon, but it breaks down in the same components.
Activated charcoal consists mostly of super tiny tube structures that can hold all kinds of chemicals, molecules and ions. Contrary to popular belief though, these things are not captured forever and will eventually leech out again.

So initially it will act as a nutrient and root exudate sink, while later on (3 months or so) it will become a source. It will provide somewhat the same type of carbon release to your soil as horticultural charcoal.
I always appreciate your contributions...
 
Contrary to popular belief though, these things are not captured forever and will eventually leech out again.
This ^^^. Many people use carbon elements in their water filtration to remove organic chemicals and chlorine. However you have to occasionally remove the old filter cartridge and replace it with a new one.

I have always wondered about the use of activated carbon in a soil mix. I don't understand the purpose. On one hand, you should be watering enough with clean water to flush contaminants out of your pots. On the other hand, if you were worried about poor quality tap water, you would need to filter/treat your tap water before you use it in your garden. Having a handful of activated carbon in a pot isn't going to do much of anything to "clean" the water.
 
This year I'm trying out adding a little bit (around 3%) of hort charcoal to my pumice for use on collected trees. My logic is that pumice has terrible CEC, so the charcoal can help hold a few nutrients for the plant to eventually access. I don't have a controlled experiment set up though.
 
I know many bonsai nurseries in Japan use charcoal in their soil mixes. I’ve seen some Japanese bonsai masters use it as a drainage layer in pots
 
Down into the Charcoal Rabbit hole!

There‘s a whole lot of confused folks that try to make sense of the differences between biochar (sometimes referred to as horticultural charcoal, activated charcoal and charcoal.

Part of this confusion comes for the actual feedstock and or temperature of pyrolysis used, the manufacturer, the end use and the fact there are so many types of each product bouncing around.

Also the biggest confuser is marketing terms.

Finally there is an iniative for an international industry standard for Biochar, but it is a work in progress…

Here’s a simple chart (source) with a few edits… it’s pretty good despite the source being a retailer. But feel free to add revise and discuss this if one has the inclination to.

Biochar vs Charcoal: 6 Key Differences

Biochar / Horticultural charcoal (my edit)Charcoal & Activated Charcoal (my edit)
ApplicationsGardening and carbon sequestrationHeating (my edit: and Filtration etc. if activated)
ProductionProduced via a modern pyrolysis method at 840-1200°F (450-650°C)Produced via both old and modern pyrolysis methods at 750°F (400°C)
Source materialsAll types of biomass feedstockWood or plant material
Physical propertiesGreater porosity and surface areaLower porosity & surface area (edit except activated char!)
Chemical propertiespH between 4.6-9.3pH between 9-11
ActivationBy mixing with organic matterBy heating at high temperature with gases

Notice the broad ranges of Biochar production temperature and wide pH… methods and feedstock tend to cause the pH variation. Similar to the charcoal pH variations.

A supplemental reference. North Carolina State U extension

Everthing one wanted to know about activated charcoal (carbon) and plenty more one didn’t

Typical uses of activated charcoal

IMG_0195.jpeg

Out of the rabbithole, finally.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Charcoal takes up root exudates, so if a tree is bleeding heavily ( juices which can hinder new growth), or something in the soil is producing a nasty thing that's detrimental to the health of the plant, charcoal can take it up. Microbes nest in that charcoal and they can break down some of those nasties sometimes.
Sometimes those exudates just need time to decompose into harmless substances, and charcoal can be a temporary vessel where the plant roots can't reach it while it breaks down.

Same as with eating spoiled foods, charcoal can take up the bacterial nasties that you shoved down your throat and keep them locked away from your body until you poop them out. It is indifferent though, and it can and will take up nutrients, medicin, drugs, enzymes, proteins, anticonceptives, and all that as well, rendering them useless.

Is charcoal needed in the soil? No.
Can it be beneficial? Certainly, for the above mentioned reasons. But there's also this: As the charcoal breaks down, it forms new hydrogen bonds and breaks others, potentially becoming a food source for the soil food web. Not all of the charcoal will do that, some will stay inert, but even in an inert state is has a surface area of a couple square meters (because nanotubes!).. A safe and stable place for microbes and fungi to reside in.

In plant tissue culture, charcoal is often used to deplete the media of hormones or to "snag" nasty chemicals, making them unavailable for the plants for some time. Change the medium, and you take away the bad stuff along with the charcoal, and you'll be left with happy and clean plants.
 
A friend and I make our own biochar using VERY low tech methods.
Sounds great!

Most research I've read recommends no more than 10% for container growing mix. That what I aim for and it certainly does no harm, but I can't say with certainty that it helps.

Many researchers mention it takes a number of applications over the years to see the effects.

In the bonsai practitioner world Professor Karen O’Hanlon of Probio Carbon has been the guru… dunno if anyone else has stepped up besides. She has been recommending 5% in bonsai media, but said one could use up to 15% I think. Maybe this was her being conservative at start. Her method has been tested for at least 2-3 years by Peter Warren and other professionals in their neck of the woods.

Likely you have heard her discussion on Bonsai Mirai?

We’ve been using 5% in all medias for three years. The trees are robust and healthy, but it’s really hard to discern if there is a specific cause. (Also using Probio carbon Danu for all trees but azaleas each spring.).

Had a conversation with Dave DeGroot last year about Biochar. He’s using 14% in his yard. Likes it a lot.

cheers
DSD sends
 
Most of the recommendations I've read are for agricultural or forestry applications, i.e. cubic yards per acre. Depending on the initial application rate they may recommend repeated applications.

It seems that most biochar derived from woody waste has a high pH. This may be the most important reason to hold the percentages low unless you test your biochar for pH.
 
Interesting. When I was in the service, our chemical warfare suits contained activated carbon (charcoal) to absorb any droplets of nerve agent that penetrated the outer layer.
 
It seems that most biochar derived from woody waste has a high pH. This may be the most important reason to hold the percentages low unless you test your biochar for pH.
I think that if we do the math, we'll find that it doesn't matter a whole lot.
pH is nothing more than a number that says how much H+ there is in relation to OH-.. In a watery mixture.
15% of pH 9.5 and 85% of the ideal pH 6.2 would still even out around 6.7 for the total soil. That's quick maths, not taking into account any logarithms, but last time I did do the whole trick according to the text book, it wasn't much different actually. Instead of doing the trick, I asked AI to come up with an answer and it gave me 6.27.


Water it a couple times, it'll protonize and probably lose a bunch of the buffering capacity, turning it into "just a component" that adjusts to the water pH.
 
This is what I’m curious about. What are the biological advantages?
Well... so far all I've learned is that if you add biochar it is similar to if you added the same biomass in the form of a fertilizer. And that activated carbon can absorb certain chemicals and organic compounds... but remaining in the soil they will simply release said chemicals and organic compounds back into the soil as the carbon breaks down.

Note: this is not to say that there are not substantial benefits to be had if you take a bucket of NC red clay acidic soil and add 10% activated carbon to it. But the benefits from adding activated carbon to a three-part bonsai mix of pumice, akadama and lava? Are they greater than adding 10% pine bark fines? Are they better than using a regular mix with organic fertilizer?
 
Well... so far all I've learned is that if you add biochar it is similar to if you added the same biomass in the form of a fertilizer. And that activated carbon can absorb certain chemicals and organic compounds... but remaining in the soil they will simply release said chemicals and organic compounds back into the soil as the carbon breaks down.

Note: this is not to say that there are not substantial benefits to be had if you take a bucket of NC red clay acidic soil and add 10% activated carbon to it. But the benefits from adding activated carbon to a three-part bonsai mix of pumice, akadama and lava? Are they greater than adding 10% pine bark fines? Are they better than using a regular mix with organic fertilizer?
That’s about what I’m understanding as well. I believe this is “spent” activated carbon pellets that were in a commercial air filtration unit, not sure exactly how spent it is but I do know no harmful chemicals were run through it. I’m just hoping to find a good use for it instead of pitching it, since it is in pelletized form it I would be adding it to grow out soil or beds, not to any bonsai soils. I may experiment with loading it with fertilizer and see if it acts as a slow release or loading it with mycorrhiza to if it helps with soil microbiology.
 
There is a glaring difference between Biochar and pine bark, (or similar component)

Boichar doesn’t break down. Bark does.

Examples. Sadly don’t have images.

Just broke a pot with an azalea in it I repotted at least two years ago. The Biochar, made from olive stone was intact. Same for at least 20 other repotting.

Second example. We regularly recycle media from all trees in inorganic media. The process is rinse thoroughly, heat to 450F for about 90 minutes, (I know a bit overkill, but no chance made here…btw this process hardens soft akadama as a side benefit) sift and add components as needed to create appropriate mixes. Medias recycled include APL w/bark or biochar and kanuma/pumice with biochar. Note a wholesale shift to biochar was done three years ago.

The media for a number of the larger trees with bark were repotted this year. Also ones with biochar. There were only vestiages of the bark remaining. The biochar remains. (The sole issue when recycling is to find a way to return the sifted biochar…. Right now we use the low caliper sifted material for growing out young stock…But that’s a whole another story.)

Anyways just a hint of actual data to add to the discussion.

cheers
DSD sends
 
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