Canada Bonsai
Chumono
- Messages
- 511
- Reaction score
- 1,572
Acer palmatum Katsura (5 trunks from cutting)
- Thread starter clem
- Start date
clem
Chumono
merci pour les encouragements
concerning the flat & large wood box, i actually read a book for professionnal nurserymen who want to grow some plants in containers. There is a paragraph devoted to flat training box. The conclusion :
1 - Compared to deep training pots, a flat training pot increases the growth/thickening rate/speed of the base of the trunk ("le collet de l'arbre" = the "collar" of the tree).
2 - The size of the training pot is important too : When you increase the size of the training box up to 50cm (20 inches), you proportionately increase the growth rate of the base of the tree. Beyond 50cm wide, the growth rate remains approx the same (so i guess it isn't usefull to build a training box larger than 50cm, unless you plan to let the tree grow many years without repotting). Below 50cm wide, the growth rate of the base of the tree isn't optimal.
clem
Chumono
With the hope to reach my 2nd virtual one day, i trimmed some trees 2 weeks ago and i will let the main tree and the first tree on the left (supposed to developp much more) grow in the years to come.
I used this big knob cutter disinfected in alcohol before to cut ->
The trees after the cut ->
The trees with healing putty ->
the future trunk lines after clip&grow in white ->
I cultivate JM since 3 years now, and i have noticed that the clip & grow cuts take approx. twice as long to heal, and the scar is thicker than a cut perpendicular to the trunk. I use a concave cutter, with the hope of having a more discreet scar (no bump) later.
I prefered to cut in the beginning of September than in the end of October, to give the trees more time to heal (compartimentalize) before winter. I just hope i will not have a sap withdrawal this winter.
I used this big knob cutter disinfected in alcohol before to cut ->
The trees after the cut ->
The trees with healing putty ->
the future trunk lines after clip&grow in white ->
I cultivate JM since 3 years now, and i have noticed that the clip & grow cuts take approx. twice as long to heal, and the scar is thicker than a cut perpendicular to the trunk. I use a concave cutter, with the hope of having a more discreet scar (no bump) later.
I prefered to cut in the beginning of September than in the end of October, to give the trees more time to heal (compartimentalize) before winter. I just hope i will not have a sap withdrawal this winter.
clem
Chumono
The trees now. This year, i let the central trunk grow more than the others, to try to reach my virtual
I worked on the nebari again (suface roots) to remove the misplaced roots
The front nebari before ->
The front nebari after trimming ->
The back side before trimming ->
The back nebari after trimming ->
I will trim the branches/crown this autumn. I hope i'll get new buds on the main trunk, in order to perform clip & grow on it (to get a better tapper).
I worked on the nebari again (suface roots) to remove the misplaced roots
The front nebari before ->
The front nebari after trimming ->
The back side before trimming ->
The back nebari after trimming ->
I will trim the branches/crown this autumn. I hope i'll get new buds on the main trunk, in order to perform clip & grow on it (to get a better tapper).
AlainK
Imperial Masterpiece
To me, the "back side" seems more coherent : big trees at the front, smaller ones at the back, to give an impression of distance.
In this photo...
... the smaller tree on the left should be at the back IMO.
In this photo...
... the smaller tree on the left should be at the back IMO.
clem
Chumono
you can also see forests with main tree on the back and small trees on the front ->
AlainK
Imperial Masterpiece
True, but the number of trees is not the same.
Yours will be a very nice grove/multi-trunk though.
pandacular
Masterpiece
any updates on this tree?
clem
Chumono
hello, they grow very well this year.
i plan to work on the nebari (surface roots) in the next few days.. i 'll take pics & post them here
i plan to work on the nebari (surface roots) in the next few days.. i 'll take pics & post them here
clem
Chumono
Here are pics of this tree
the main trunk lacks of tapper, so i plan to thread graft it next spring
The nebari of the front before work ->
The nebari of the front after moving a few surface roots ->
The nebari of the back before work ->
The nebari of the back after work ->
I plan to repot this tree next spring, and thread graft the main trunk here ->
the main trunk lacks of tapper, so i plan to thread graft it next spring
The nebari of the front before work ->
The nebari of the front after moving a few surface roots ->
The nebari of the back before work ->
The nebari of the back after work ->
I plan to repot this tree next spring, and thread graft the main trunk here ->
Hack Yeah!
Omono
clem
Chumono
Not yet, but the trunks are firmly attached to each other by the roots !
clem
Chumono
I didn't repot it for years because i wanted that the little trunk on the left, added lately to the group, developp its roots enough to be firmly fixed to the others (easier during repotting and extracting the group from the wood box). The nebari didn't change very much since 2 years now, (less and less surface roots to cut) so i think the main active and growing roots are now at the bottom of the rootball. So i think i'll have a lot of work during the repoting next year.
I think with young japanese maples like these, it is better to repot every year or 2 years maximum (lot of growth -> lot of changes every year on the nebari)
clem
Chumono
some news... I repotted this tree this spring.
Removing the rootball was easier than I thought ->
I thread grafted a small branch to give more movement of this trunk ->
I also thread grafted the new crown of the main tree, to give it more tapper ->
By misfortune, in April, a storm (lot of wind) broke the thread graft of the main trunk, so i decided to remove the leaves of a branch and to replace it in the hole ->
Fortunatly, the thread graft made small leaves a few weeks later ->
Today, this small thread graft is still alive, i just wait for the "summer growth", which is very generous, to make it grow.
To be continued...
Removing the rootball was easier than I thought ->
I thread grafted a small branch to give more movement of this trunk ->
I also thread grafted the new crown of the main tree, to give it more tapper ->
By misfortune, in April, a storm (lot of wind) broke the thread graft of the main trunk, so i decided to remove the leaves of a branch and to replace it in the hole ->
Fortunatly, the thread graft made small leaves a few weeks later ->
Today, this small thread graft is still alive, i just wait for the "summer growth", which is very generous, to make it grow.
To be continued...
pandacular
Masterpiece
I noticed that you wired the thread graft that you did after summer. Do you find that this adds strength or stability to the graft? Or is it only for movement of the new trunk/branch?
clem
Chumono
hello, it is to give movement but it can also give more stability to the graft as you say.. My trees are in a open greenhouse, so there is no wind and no risk that the graft moves normally.
The april storm broke the spring thread graft because the greenhouse cover slammed violently on the bend of the graft branch.. It is the first time it happens, a bad combination of circumstances : tree too close to the mobile cover...
Great work as always. Question: Is picture 3 here, it is the original wood block from starting of the project?
clem
Chumono
thanks !
No, the original wood block is still under the tree.. I changed the lighting of the pic so that you can see it perfectly ->
after cutting the roots : the wood block is still here : the trees are still fixed on it so i have no interest in trying to unhook them ->
Maybe one day, this wood block will naturally disintegrate so i will be able to remove it easilly.
