Acer palmatum beni tsukasa (from cutting)

i use organic solid fertilizer (4-4-4) with sphagnum moss inside the tea bags. But i also use osmocote too. The green house is also very important in my place to get a better growth because i live near to the sea, and JM don't like wind at all...
 
I repotted this tree 1 week ago..
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This summer, i will cut the big branch on the right (2nd right) and i will proceed clip&grow on the 1rst branches on the right and the left. I will keep sacrifice branches to make the trunk grow more.
 
Your trunk seems plenty thick. When do you plan to transition to a bonsai pot? What do you want to develop further that’s led you to keep the tree in a box?
 
Hey Clem, great work! When you have a limb or trunk you know you will be cut off later, do you allow all shoots on it to extend as far as they like to help with girth development, or do you reduce to two only from each node so it doesn't get too cluttered?
 
Hey Clem, great work! When you have a limb or trunk you know you will be cut off later, do you allow all shoots on it to extend as far as they like to help with girth development, or do you reduce to two only from each node so it doesn't get too cluttered?
Hello, in my experience, the more shoots (and leaves/buds) you let in a sacrifice branch, the more developpement you get. On this tree, i let the sacrifice branches rise vertically to get better sapp flow, and in order to take less place in my green house and to let the little branches below get some light because i want those little branches to developp later. For the same purpose, i also remove the secondary ramifications that grow on the lower part of the vertical shoots : this way some air and sunlight can go inside the tree...
 
I want the trunk to developp more, that's why i keep my tree in a woodbox..

I’m trying to figure out what specifically you’re developing and how you’ll know when you’re finished. Are you working on the upper trunk, trying to make it thicker? Do you want the base to be even thicker than it already is? I’m curious about your specific goals.
 
I’m trying to figure out what specifically you’re developing and how you’ll know when you’re finished. Are you working on the upper trunk, trying to make it thicker? Do you want the base to be even thicker than it already is? I’m curious about your specific goals.

Not trying to butt in on a question that was not directed to me, but I wanted to point out that development in a large container like a box can serve more goals than simply trunk development. Everything will grow faster with the larger root mass. That means branches thicken faster and wounds heal faster. If I was making chops the size that @clem is doing, I would certainly not want to try and close those wounds in a bonsai pot - it would just take far too long. I wonder if ramification may increase more quickly in a box as well, but I don't know. I hope that is helpful.
 
I repotted this tree 1 week ago..
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This summer, i will cut the big branch on the right (2nd right) and i will proceed clip&grow on the 1rst branches on the right and the left. I will keep sacrifice branches to make the trunk grow more.
Impressive tree. Question: What are the actual dimensions of the box, and depth inside? Thanks
 
I’m trying to figure out what specifically you’re developing and how you’ll know when you’re finished. Are you working on the upper trunk, trying to make it thicker? Do you want the base to be even thicker than it already is? I’m curious about your specific goals.
i made a virtual a few years ago of my goal (my dream goal ^^) with the original tree inside ->
acer palmatum beni tsukasa 2020 11 09 004virt4.jpg
If i want to reach this virtual, i need to let the trunk grow (lower and upper) and also the branches.. In order to increase the trunk diameter of 1cm, for example, you need to grow very big sacrifice branches. So i will probably need to developp and cut some sacrifice branches in the future.

On this pic below of the Master Ebihara, you can imagine the very very large sacrifice branches he used (very very large scars) ->
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Not trying to butt in on a question that was not directed to me, but I wanted to point out that development in a large container like a box can serve more goals than simply trunk development. Everything will grow faster with the larger root mass. That means branches thicken faster and wounds heal faster. If I was making chops the size that @clem is doing, I would certainly not want to try and close those wounds in a bonsai pot - it would just take far too long. I wonder if ramification may increase more quickly in a box as well, but I don't know. I hope that is helpful.
I never compared in the Bonsai pot, but i think the large & flat wood box is easier than a Bonsai pot (of the same size) to developp a tree. I saw articles in Bonsai magasine with JM in Bonsai pot, and the growth was very good too, but they are professional : they can grow a tree very well in a Bonsai container, but me, i'm an amateur, and i can't do the same.

ps : Bjorn Bjornholm, who is a pro, also uses wood boxes to train and developp his JM in his nursery.
 
I repotted this tree 1 week ago..
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This summer, i will cut the big branch on the right (2nd right) and i will proceed clip&grow on the 1rst branches on the right and the left. I will keep sacrifice branches to make the trunk grow more.
Nice work. Great base you’ve got there! Solid documentation as well.
 
Impressive tree. Question: What are the actual dimensions of the box, and depth inside? Thanks
Thanks for your interest Maros. This wood box is the largest i have : it is 65 x 45 x 7cm (depth inside = 6cm)
The other woodboxes of my other (smaller) JM are smaller.
 
i made a virtual a few years ago of my goal (my dream goal ^^) with the original tree inside ->
View attachment 479162
If i want to reach this virtual, i need to let the trunk grow (lower and upper) and also the branches.. In order to increase the trunk diameter of 1cm, for example, you need to grow very big sacrifice branches. So i will probably need to developp and cut some sacrifice branches in the future.

On this pic below of the Master Ebihara, you can imagine the very very large sacrifice branches he used (very very large scars) ->
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Thanks. This answers my question.
 
Inspiring indeed. It confirms some ideas I have about developing trees and providing some means to do so.

Thanks for sharing.
 
I'm loving your maple progressions!! Incredible work, and this one really shows how the extra movement you placed early on was not too much at all. Over time with thickening everything has blended in well. I think most don't make their curves big enough to begin with, and then everything just ends up straight in the end.
 
thank you !
Yes, creating excessive curves on a developpement stage pre-Bonsai is an advise of Ryan Neil : as the tree thickens, year after year, the curves tend to disapear. Thats why Ryan makes generous curves with wire ->
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Anyway, i recently decided to cut all those primary branches, because they are getting too big. So i'll wait several years to let the tree scars heal, and then i'll thread graft new branches on the scars.
Before the cut (mid july) ->
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after ->
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The large scar ->
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It will take many years to close (at least 5 years) but it is my decision in order to start again on a better basis (better trunk and branches proportions) ^^
 
Nice taper, congratulations.

Let it grow, and chop, clip, and grow, branches on, branches off, wax on, wax off........ :cool:

P.S Don't be afraid of going deep in to the trunk, this things, may close better if the callus grow to the inside
 
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