Acer Palmatum 'Beni-Maiko'

even better Conar as deshojo is one of the most sought after varieties, highly prized for bonsai training😎
 
even better Conar as deshojo is one of the most sought after varieties, highly prized for bonsai training😎

I believe he is saying those pics are Beni Maiko. But look at these 2 pics.. they look the same, look like Beni Maiko, am I crazy?


Yours:
C9D8EC8B-04CE-4FC0-A6BD-F29F844BA399.png

Mine:

In a short time, these leaves should mature and change. If they change to that yellow colour, then surely they are Maiko..

Even down to the sloping loves that narrow to a point..
 
Conor ,

I look at your pictures and I am 100% convinced that your plant is also a Beni maiko.
I took a photo with the phone in a poor light so it may be a little bit lighter.

I bought this plant from a Dutch import from a nursery that is very famous for Acer Palmatum. Each plant is marked, has a declaration and a big picture. I bought more plants from them ... two beni maiko.. and both are identical even though they were purchased different years
 
Currently this guy is between seasons, starting to get green foliage but is very slow to change. Its a big bush at the moment, I need to go in and do some branch selection, also help to let light and air inside.
Most branches that are kept, won't be pruned, as I think they won't be thick enough yet but ill know once I cut away some of the unnecessary ones.

May 24th:
DSC_1817 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

May 28th:
DSC_1850 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

There is one very perfect green leaf, right in the middle of this next pic.. Its very nice and full green.

DSC_1851 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

Still pushing new growth at the tips too, which is full shaped and good colour. So, good indicators that the tree is healthy and being watered enough.

DSC_1852 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
 
I have a deshojo and it looks like a deshojo to me !

I also have a deshojo and it looks very different, to me lol.
I really don't mind what this tree is. When the thread started and it was being looked at, I settled on Beni Maiko as the most likely, based on the previous poster's pictures, was identical enough for my liking.
Im not one for dwelling on something like this.
 
i just looked at pics of beni maiko cultivar and it is very likely to be a beni maiko too ^^
 
This tree has finally been pruned back and styled fully now. Was a very enjoyable session, good bit of wiring, and I am really happy with the result and proud of my work on it.
Unfortunately the pictures don't seem to look as good, it is so much better in person...!

DSC_1916 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_1918 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_1920 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

Unnecessary branches were removed. Branches kept were judged to be either thick enough, in which case they were subjected to the usual practice "1 branch divide in to 2, each of those, divide in to 2.. " and those failing, were reduced to 1 pair of leaves. Those that need thickening were left to grow out but this was rare, if at all. I think I was very lucky in how well the branches had grown, a lot of good natural bifurcation and good proportionate thickness of branches. Wire was applied in most places for adding in movement to branches and spreading out foliage pads. Looking at pics, I feel like I could add more movement.. will think about it. I also scratched away at the wound in the middle of the trunk, hoping it will encourage healing and sealed with heavy wound paste. I don't mind if it never heals, looks fine to me.

DSC_1931 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_1932 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

DSC_1940 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

And an upskirt picture..

Bb0hL9H.jpg
 
this is a basic setting of structure/primary lines. you cant fully style a deciduous tree with the leaves, when the leaves are off is when you can see what youre doing properly, a full styling involves wiring every twig. deciduous trees are fully appreciated for the winter image, only then can you carry out intricate wiring. i do basic wiring jobs in summer, i wire out trees fully after leaf drop when i can see what im doing.

theres a few bits in there that are wired, but still dont appear to have much movement in.. to style a tree properly you want to be looking at the tree from your chosen front.
looking up into the tree from the base, but you also need a plain back ground and a naked tree to really do it properly.

good start tho
 
this is a basic setting of structure/primary lines. you cant fully style a deciduous tree with the leaves, when the leaves are off is when you can see what youre doing properly, a full styling involves wiring every twig. deciduous trees are fully appreciated for the winter image, only then can you carry out intricate wiring. i do basic wiring jobs in summer, i wire out trees fully after leaf drop when i can see what im doing.

theres a few bits in there that are wired, but still dont appear to have much movement in.. to style a tree properly you want to be looking at the tree from your chosen front.
looking up into the tree from the base, but you also need a plain back ground and a naked tree to really do it properly.

good start tho

Agree agree, no arguments there. I remember thinking, I can't wait till its dropped its leaves, 1. For right now, to style more and put more movement in with wire, but 2. After the growth which this work will trigger.

I have tried my best with applying wire where I can, but it was difficult as there is a good bit of young growth there.. Having not broken anything whilst applying, is a miracle, for me.
You are right, that's why I mentioned above, I think I need to apply some more movement.

Some of the most inspiring pics for me, on Maples, are the smooth curves of the branches in a winter image. I want that.
 
Any further comments, are welcomed.

I am very excited for this tree and I've grown very fond of it, so I would like to know any suggestions for a better image, or whether or not whats been done so far is good or bad.
All welcome.
 
Any further comments, are welcomed.

Hi Conor - what are your plans for this part of the tree?
4F680AB5-303A-4D1A-B465-02F495AE3E10.jpeg

To my eye it is very straight and lacks taper, branching or movement. Do you see this as an issue? If you do, how do you plan on addressing it? You might consider that the taper of the lower trunk (at least from this view) seems to suggest a shorter tree.
C2C8A6D2-FB81-41A6-9725-A15471665891.jpeg

If you were to consider extending that taper vertically, where is the point where the two lines converge?

Scott
 
Hi Conor - what are your plans for this part of the tree?
View attachment 308494

To my eye it is very straight and lacks taper, branching or movement. Do you see this as an issue? If you do, how do you plan on addressing it? You might consider that the taper of the lower trunk (at least from this view) seems to suggest a shorter tree.
View attachment 308496

If you were to consider extending that taper vertically, where is the point where the two lines converge?

Scott

Hi Marky, thanks for the response.

I've no problem being honest and saying I didn't think of it as a problem, prior to you pointing it out. Everything you say is true, it lacks taper and is quite straight. My original plan was for a taller tree, I would like this tree to remain taller.
Im going to MS paint, my thinking, so ill post that shortly.

I was thinking and now hoping that a flaw like this could go unseen once branch structure takes over, unseen when leaves are on of course, much more seen in winter image, but hopefully not too bad?
I think the only way of resolving this would be to cut that long section in half, or shorter which would kinda of remove the taller tree image.

I think what I am asking, is do you think this flaw is enough that I should seriously consider doing that work, or is it small enough that it is forgiven? Im for picking my battles lol.
 
Hi Marky, thanks for the response.

I've no problem being honest and saying I didn't think of it as a problem, prior to you pointing it out. Everything you say is true, it lacks taper and is quite straight. My original plan was for a taller tree, I would like this tree to remain taller.
Im going to MS paint, my thinking, so ill post that shortly.

I was thinking and now hoping that a flaw like this could go unseen once branch structure takes over, unseen when leaves are on of course, much more seen in winter image, but hopefully not too bad?
I think the only way of resolving this would be to cut that long section in half, or shorter which would kinda of remove the taller tree image.

I think what I am asking, is do you think this flaw is enough that I should seriously consider doing that work, or is it small enough that it is forgiven? Im for picking my battles lol.

I think a thing like this would be hard to correct if you see it as a problem. You can easily disguise it in leaf, but one of the challenges of deciduous trees are that they are often shown in winter where the flaws are there for all to see. If it were mine, I might opt for cutting it off as, based on the pictures, it appears as though it might be more interesting as a smaller tree. But doing so should not be done lightly as it will take some number of years to rebuild the branch structure and canopy that you’ve built. When looking at a tree, my eye first goes to the trunk and nebari - that part of the trunk is what jumped out to me immediately.

Scott
 
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Speaking of nebari - let’s zoom in for a look.

828BDD47-8995-4479-AE29-DB70795FBFF3.jpeg

In this picture, it appears that roots 2 and 3 are oriented radial to the trunk. They’re good. Roots 1 and 4 appear to be parallel to the trunk an diving beneath roots 2 and 3. Root 4 should be easy to correct, but root 1 looks as though it’s substantial and probably fused to the trunk at this point. It gives and appearance of being flat on the side that the arrow is pointing to. But you’ve been in the rootball and can see this from more than one angle - is this an issue to you? What are your plans to imporve the nebari?

Scott
 
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