Pinching beech / hornbeam?

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I thought that in terms of early spring maintenance, maples in refinement were the only ones that needed their middle bud pinched. But I was poking around today, and halfway down this page, they show a beech being pinched:


So now I'm curious - for trees in refinement, are you also pinching hornbeam / beech? I thought since they were alternating pattern leaves, the answer would be no...
 

Wood

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Bonsai Today has an incredibly in-depth article on Iemitsu Ooishi's handling of beech:

A big part of the difficulty is that they can frequently behave like white pines. Usually one flush of growth per year and if you cut off all foliage, there's a good chance the branch will die

I don't think hornbeams get the same pinching in refinement, because they typically (🤞) respond to pruning with a new flush of growth. The American and Japanese hornbeams might be the exception. I haven't had my C japonica long enough to know. In my garden, C caroliniana give me multiple flushes, though I've heard some people only get one flush
 

bwaynef

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I remember an article in old Int'l Bonsai magazines about pinching beech, but couldn't get close to pointing you to the exact one.
 

Gabler

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Pinching can elicit a second flush of growth in the same season from the new leaves. Leaving the shoots for the summer and pruning in the fall to remove all active buds will prompt the tree to develop more densely spaced epicormic buds on old branches.
 

RKatzin

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Pinching can elicit a second flush of growth in the same season from the new leaves. Leaving the shoots for the summer and pruning in the fall to remove all active buds will prompt the tree to develop more densely spaced epicormic buds on old branches.
Thanks for that clarification. I pinch my beech regularly in the spring, reducing all buds to two leaves. I do get a light second flush of smaller leaves.
Do you let just the buds in the areas you want to build extend, or just occasionally let the whole tree flush out?
 

Gabler

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Pinching can elicit a second flush of growth in the same season from the new leaves. Leaving the shoots for the summer and pruning in the fall to remove all active buds will prompt the tree to develop more densely spaced epicormic buds on old branches.

I should clarify that I'm talking about American beech, and you should not remove active buds unless the tree has tons of energy.
 

JudyB

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In regards to hornbeams (Korean) you can defoliate them if they are in good health. Just make sure to do it in the window after hardening, and before the solstice. If you do it later, they may not leaf out until the following spring. I never defoliate Beech, I use the Harrington article technique.
 
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In regards to hornbeams (Korean) you can defoliate them if they are in good health. Just make sure to do it in the window after hardening, and before the solstice. If you do it later, they may not leaf out until the following spring. I never defoliate Beech, I use the Harrington article technique.

Awesome, thank you! I’ve stayed away from defoliating Korean hornbeam due to all the warnings…. I figure I’d rather it take longer to develop than risking it, but know folks who say it’s OK and I bet this is why!
 

fredman

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I used to be all over the place with my European beech....pinching and cutting back while it was trying to grow and gather strength.
I now follow the advice Walter Pall gave me.
I let it be for the spring...and cut back mid summer. I defoliate every 2nd year....if the tree is healthy.
I like this approach better as i'm working with the tree.
I also leave it in its pot for at least 5 years.
 
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