Emergency Repotting a Baobab

Lumaca

Mame
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Jakarta, the Equator
Just wanted to share a hectic sunday, when a wild Baobab forced my hand into an emergency repot at the start of rainy season.

This 6 months old(-ish) Baobab outgrew its container, with its tap root growing out of the bottom, plugging the drainage hole.

It was raining today and as I checked on it, I can see the water pooling in the pot. Attempts to manually drain it wasn't working, so I decided to repot it. It was almost completely pot bound, so I teased the roots a bit, but didnt't have the courage to cut the HUGE spiral tap root. I figured I'd give it a better survival chance leaving it there. I was gonna find a shallower, wider basket for it, but emergency is emergency.

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Living in a temperate region, I can't say I really grasp the significance of repotting at the beginning of the "rainy season." That said, if the tree is above freezing and wet, I'd think it would be the ideal time to prune that big tap root. What climate conditions do you deal with near the equator? What's the start of your growing season?
 
Baobabs are more succulentvthan tree. They don't have growth rings like we think of in woody trees. They tend to turn to a squishy pulp when rotting :( Cool standing water can be the kiss of death!

I prune the taproot of mine in our winter when the trees are dormant and dry. Some of mine still have leaves and usually hang on to them until early January. That's when I'll lift them and trim the taproot back again.

I'd be reluctant to trim the taproot during growing season because I want the tree growing! These things grow fast when they have access to water and full sun!

Something you could do instead or trimming the tap root is to raise it out of the soil. I've seen people do this to "cheat" a fatter trunk by using the tubers as a trunk. Losing a few side roots that are now above the soil line because the tree has been lifted higher won't hurt anything.

I currently have 3 digitata (plus several others) that I started from seed that I might lift in that way to compare different ways of growing.

@Lumaca , that's a nice looking seedling :) Was it from seed? Is it a digitata? Mine were starting to show palmate leaves at about that stage. Then they went dormant. When the woke up, one conti n used to have palmata leaves while the other two reverted back to simple leaves.

Are you planning to bonsai it?

I'm looking forward to your progress with it. Not many people growing these guys on here...
 
Nice sapling you have. In their natural habitat, they sit in water during the growing season, as they can be found in flood plains. While it’s a good idea to have repotted, the tree would’ve been ok with a non-emergent repot. Here’s a nice thread that discusses watering baobabs generally but also addresses the flooding they experience: https://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t11403-watering-a-baobab-tree
 
Nice sapling you have. In their natural habitat, they sit in water during the growing season, as they can be found in flood plains. While it’s a good idea to have repotted, the tree would’ve been ok with a non-emergent repot. Here’s a nice thread that discusses watering baobabs generally but also addresses the flooding they experience: https://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t11403-watering-a-baobab-tree

Do you have any experience yourself growing these in standing water? From my personal experience, I would not recommend it.

My philosophy when watering most any succulent, babs included, is to water away when in active growth but water hardly ever when dormant. Most would feel I way overwater my succulents and yet I won't let my babs sit in standing water ever anymore. I used to let them sit in the inch or two of water that would collect in the drip trays I usually have their grow bags sitting in. But then I had a couple die from rot that way after a week of rains. Now I remove the bags from the drip trays when we get rains so that they are never sitting in standing water.

The temperature of standing water and how much it is agitated can have a big impact on how fast rot sets in. My "rainy season" tends to be cool when it rains. Cool standing water causes root problems fast in many species. Warm or flowing water causes less issues.

I believe the "flood plains" adansonia grow in are closer to desert flood plains where rains can cause flash flooding and large amounts of water run-off...temporary rivers and lakes that can dry up again in a few days. They aren't the sort of long term stagnant water in a pot that won't drain sorts of floods.

I certainly would not hesitate to repot any of my babs that were in pots that aren't draining! Depending on the season, I'd leave the trees bare root until they've had a good chance to try up and I could feel around for any rot that may have started. Rot in most succulents generally feels wet and squishy...sort of like a rotten banana: remember, these aren't "woody" plants the way we think of typical trees. Often, the rotted parts can be cut out and the remains allowed to dry out completely and the plant will heal the wound and survive. My two seedlings that dies were too far gone to save anything, but rot in other succulents like jade and desert rose is very similar and those are things I've had to deal with over the years.

@Lumaca do you have a status report on yours??
 
@LittleDingus
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the tree was leaning down for a couple of days (it has done this a few times in the storm), so I had to prop it up with some bamboo stakes. After the first sunny day, it is now back to an upright position.

Leaves have been separating on my 2 trees, I will use the smaller one as an experiment for cutting off the tap root on its next repot, along with the planting of the rest of my seeds.
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(edit: Spider mite spots spotted!)


I think this rainy season is actually comparable to spring in temperate climates, so I am seeing all my trees push new growths (pines, junipers, spruce, etc). I don't think any of my tree will ever go dormant hahaha. I am still trying to learn about some of the more "foreign" plants of which internet research yield no result as to growing condition in the tropics.

Veterans I've asked seem to have no problems repotting any plants any time of the year though...

@oddirt

I am always hesitant to leave plants in standing water if that is not their natural habitat hahaha. Root rot is such a trauma especially if you've grown houseplants/succulents. Besides, that huge tap root was also making the pot wobbly, which is an added risk!
 
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@LittleDingus



the tree was leaning down for a couple of days (it has done this a few times in the storm), so I had to prop it up with some bamboo stakes. After the first sunny day, it is now back to an upright position.

Leaves have been separating on my 2 trees, I will use the smaller one as an experiment for cutting off the tap root on its next repot, along with the planting of the rest of my seeds.

I think this rainy season is actually comparable to spring in temperate climates, so I am seeing all my trees push new growths (pines, junipers, spruce, etc). I don't think any of my tree will ever go dormant hahaha. I am still trying to learn about some of the more "foreign" plants of which internet research yield no result as to growing condition in the tropics.

Veterans I've asked seem to have no problems repotting any plants any time of the year though...

@oddirt

I am always hesitant to leave plants in standing water if that is not their natural habitat hahaha. Root rot is such a trauma especially if you've grown houseplants/succulents. Besides, that huge tap root was also making the pot wobbly, which is an added risk!
@LittleDingus, I understand the concern about wet succulents. I have lost desert roses and other species from cold wet conditions.

I sprouted over 40 A. digitata seeds last year and had so many I decided to experiment with different growing conditions (I’m a research epidemiologist by training and followed a factorial trial design). I live in a Mediterranean climate but have a variety of growing spaces and wanted to know which conditions the plants thrive in, and what minimal conditions they could tolerate in my climate. Here are the factors I examined:

- organic soil vs primarily inorganic (pumice/lava/akadama)
- cool evening temperatures vs warm (>20C/70F) with warm daytime temps (they go dormant below that threshold)
- high humidity vs low
- in standing water during the growing season vs not (at consistently warm temps)

None died, so I’m stuck with more plants than I need. The ones that grew the strongest were at consistently higher temperatures and had more access to water (soggy organic soil).

@Lumaca, since you’re in the tropics, I guessed the water it was sitting in was warm, similar to its natural habitat. That would be safe. I’m curious how you give them the dormancy they need (cool, dry conditions). Others on the IBC forum had trouble when they did not allow their plants to go dormant. Some reported that their trees eventually became weak until they forced dormancy.

My winters are rainy and cold, summers warm to hot and dry (which is the definition of Mediterranean climate). So I overwinter them bone dry (as recommended in the link I sent) at the recommended temperatures. If I left them outside in the cold rain, they would rot.

I have not tried cutting roots during the growing season. All the advice I read recommended only cutting during dormancy, but if it works for you, I’d be interested to know how it turns out in the next few months.
 
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@LittleDingus
View attachment 341691


the tree was leaning down for a couple of days (it has done this a few times in the storm), so I had to prop it up with some bamboo stakes. After the first sunny day, it is now back to an upright position.

Leaves have been separating on my 2 trees, I will use the smaller one as an experiment for cutting off the tap root on its next repot, along with the planting of the rest of my seeds.
View attachment 341692
(edit: Spider mite spots spotted!)


I think this rainy season is actually comparable to spring in temperate climates, so I am seeing all my trees push new growths (pines, junipers, spruce, etc). I don't think any of my tree will ever go dormant hahaha. I am still trying to learn about some of the more "foreign" plants of which internet research yield no result as to growing condition in the tropics.

Veterans I've asked seem to have no problems repotting any plants any time of the year though...

@oddirt

I am always hesitant to leave plants in standing water if that is not their natural habitat hahaha. Root rot is such a trauma especially if you've grown houseplants/succulents. Besides, that huge tap root was also making the pot wobbly, which is an added risk!
Those look great!

Spider mites on these guys is a big problem for me when they are inside. I can't ever fully get rid of them until they go fully dormant and drop all their leaves. When they are outside, I've never noticed a problem with them.
 
@LittleDingus, I understand the concern about wet succulents. I have lost desert roses and other species from cold wet conditions.

I sprouted over 40 A. digitata seeds last year and had so many I decided to experiment with different growing conditions (I’m a research epidemiologist by training and followed a factorial trial design). I live in a Mediterranean climate but have a variety of growing spaces and wanted to know which conditions the plants thrive in, and what minimal conditions they could tolerate in my climate. Here are the factors I examined:

- organic soil vs primarily inorganic (pumice/lava/akadama)
- cool evening temperatures vs warm (>20C/70F) with warm daytime temps (they go dormant below that threshold)
- high humidity vs low
- in standing water during the growing season vs not (at consistently warm temps)

None died, so I’m stuck with more plants than I need. The ones that grew the strongest were at consistently higher temperatures and had more access to water (soggy organic soil).

@Lumaca, since you’re in the tropics, I guessed the water it was sitting in was warm, similar to its natural habitat. That would be safe. I’m curious how you give them the dormancy they need (cool, dry conditions). Others on the IBC forum had trouble when they did not allow their plants to go dormant. Some reported that their trees eventually became weak until they forced dormancy.

My winters are rainy and cold, summers warm to hot and dry (which is the definition of Mediterranean climate). So I overwinter them bone dry (as recommended in the link I sent) at the recommended temperatures. If I left them outside in the cold rain, they would rot.

I have not tried cutting roots during the growing season. All the advice I read recommended only cutting during dormancy, but if it works for you, I’d be interested to know how it turns out in the next few months.
@oddirt I would love to see more of your results! And your plants :D these guys are so fun to grow...you can practically see new growth just staring at them they are so vigorous!

I'm going a different route...rather than a number of the same species, I'm after a few of all the species :) Last year I had started 7 of the 8 adansonia species from seed. I let them dry out too much their first winter and several of them never woke up :( I have seed to restart the ones I lost but I only have a few suarazensis seed left and I've never gotten that species too germinate at all yet. Seeds for some of the species are very hard to find! I want to see if I can get them through the winter easier this season before filling in the species I lost.

I grew them in coconut coir last season and needed to up pot them 3 times. This season, they were in diatomaceous earth and they weren't nearly as vigorous. I water them every day and twice when its hot or windy. I don't know if the lessened growth this season was due to the soil change or that they were kept too dry over the winter and took so long waking up.

I'm not convinced they do need a dormancy if kept warm and happy. Most succulents are advantageous growers. I know there is a baobab in a climate controlled dome at the St Louis Batonical Gardens. I don't believe it ever goes dormant...

The reasons I avoid root cuts during the growing season are more about growth vigour than concern for the plant. I wouldn't be afraid to cut the tap root at any time as long as I could keep the wound dry until it's healed over enough to protect itself. The plant may even continue to grow bare root by using the reserves in the caudex/remaining root. Of course, seedlings won't have many stored resources to draw on but, with proper after care I wouldn't be afraid to cut a root any time were it warranted...like if there was a rotted spot.
 
@oddirt
I was reading the link you posted and was amazed at how fast their baobabs are lignifying my "trunk" is still super green hahaha.

Currently mine are in 50% peat moss and 50% inorganic (a mixture of perlite and lava).

I do know that there are quite a lot of them here, enough to earn themselves a local name. They've been grown here since colonial times, so I'm quite confident they can live without any winter temp. We did have the same colonists as South Africa so wouldn't be surprised if they brought some here 150-200 years ago.

@LittleDingus
Spider mites have been terrorizing my plants forever, even outdoors in the rain (I thought they're supposed to hate the water). I was even considering growing Neem bonsai!
 
@oddirt I would love to see more of your results! And your plants :D these guys are so fun to grow...you can practically see new growth just staring at them they are so vigorous!

I'm going a different route...rather than a number of the same species, I'm after a few of all the species :) Last year I had started 7 of the 8 adansonia species from seed. I let them dry out too much their first winter and several of them never woke up :( I have seed to restart the ones I lost but I only have a few suarazensis seed left and I've never gotten that species too germinate at all yet. Seeds for some of the species are very hard to find! I want to see if I can get them through the winter easier this season before filling in the species I lost.

I grew them in coconut coir last season and needed to up pot them 3 times. This season, they were in diatomaceous earth and they weren't nearly as vigorous. I water them every day and twice when its hot or windy. I don't know if the lessened growth this season was due to the soil change or that they were kept too dry over the winter and took so long waking up.

I'm not convinced they do need a dormancy if kept warm and happy. Most succulents are advantageous growers. I know there is a baobab in a climate controlled dome at the St Louis Batonical Gardens. I don't believe it ever goes dormant...

The reasons I avoid root cuts during the growing season are more about growth vigour than concern for the plant. I wouldn't be afraid to cut the tap root at any time as long as I could keep the wound dry until it's healed over enough to protect itself. The plant may even continue to grow bare root by using the reserves in the caudex/remaining root. Of course, seedlings won't have many stored resources to draw on but, with proper after care I wouldn't be afraid to cut a root any time were it warranted...like if there was a rotted spot.
Great advice about root cutting! Thanks for sharing. Sounds like you’ve got Adansonia fever. I have California native plant fever; I’m trying to get one every 90+ tree species. 😮

It seems like organic is the way to go with these, at least in the early development phase. I think I’m going to try growing out all the excess plants I have and fusing Them like this: http://lennardsbonsaibeginnings.blogspot.com/2010/04/adansonia-digitata-baobab.html?m=1

Sorry to hear some of yours didn’t wake up from dormancy. I have read that some people experience a very late wake up from dormancy. And that they really need high temps and no water until they put out their first leaves. I started my seeds late last year and they had a short growing season and I didn’t break dormancy early this year to give them a long growing season. I’m experimenting with a couple that I’m not giving a dormancy this year (keeping them in a hot house).

I also put some of them into flat colanders to develop lateral root growth and try to keep the tuber formation under control.

Knowing what I know now about growing them in my environment, in the future I will force dormancy late by growing them in the hot house when it starts to get cold outside. (Except for the ones I’ve got growing permanently in the hot house if they don’t wither from lack of dormancy.) And then I’ll do the usual dormancy routine for just 2 months or so, and then start to break dormancy early by bringing them into the hot house, and start watering when they put out leaves.

Here is the one growing this year without dormancy. It spontaneously branched and is about an inch thick. The location doesn’t get enough light in late fall/winter but some new grow lights are coming this week. Sorry for the sideways pics. My phone and this site won’t let me get them right side up. 🤪

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@oddirt
I was reading the link you posted and was amazed at how fast their baobabs are lignifying my "trunk" is still super green hahaha.

Currently mine are in 50% peat moss and 50% inorganic (a mixture of perlite and lava).

I do know that there are quite a lot of them here, enough to earn themselves a local name. They've been grown here since colonial times, so I'm quite confident they can live without any winter temp. We did have the same colonists as South Africa so wouldn't be surprised if they brought some here 150-200 years ago.

@LittleDingus
Spider mites have been terrorizing my plants forever, even outdoors in the rain (I thought they're supposed to hate the water). I was even considering growing Neem bonsai!
That’s great to hear that people can grow them there without dormancy. Next year I’ll give that a try with my other ones although I don’t have enough space in my tiny hot house! Either that or I have to give away some of the orchids, nepenthes, and tropical bonsai. 🥺

Your sapling definitely has more vigorous growth than my 1+ year old plants. It must be nice to have that year-round tropical sun. 😎

I used to have spider mite issues with trees in my hot house. I used a lot of neem oil and sprayed them off with water. And I got predatory species (lady bugs) which helped. But with your tree outside, lady bugs might not help, and plus I wouldn’t try to import an exotic insect species! Good luck with that. Pests are the worst.
 
The reasons I avoid root cuts during the growing season are more about growth vigour than concern for the plant. I wouldn't be afraid to cut the tap root at any time as long as I could keep the wound dry until it's healed over enough to protect itself. The plant may even continue to grow bare root by using the reserves in the caudex/remaining root. Of course, seedlings won't have many stored resources to draw on but, with proper after care I wouldn't be afraid to cut a root any time were it warranted...like if there was a rotted spot.

How would you tackle the removal? Cut then let it dry out like a port afra? Cut paste on the bottom part? Cut then plant straight into dry media and hold the water for a week or two?
 
That’s great to hear that people can grow them there without dormancy. Next year I’ll give that a try with my other ones although I don’t have enough space in my tiny hot house! Either that or I have to give away some of the orchids, nepenthes, and tropical bonsai. 🥺

Your sapling definitely has more vigorous growth than my 1+ year old plants. It must be nice to have that year-round tropical sun. 😎

I used to have spider mite issues with trees in my hot house. I used a lot of neem oil and sprayed them off with water. And I got predatory species (lady bugs) which helped. But with your tree outside, lady bugs might not help, and plus I wouldn’t try to import an exotic insect species! Good luck with that. Pests are the worst.
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That's a specimen at the National university. Great at backbudding apparently.

Hahaha I'm hoping the sun at my place gives all of my plants a boost! Sucks that I can't ever get fall colors though.
 
How would you tackle the removal? Cut then let it dry out like a port afra? Cut paste on the bottom part? Cut then plant straight into dry media and hold the water for a week or two?
I've been cutting mine while they are dormant. I bare root them, cut, and leave them bare rooted until I get around to repotting them. My plan this winter is to cut them sometime after Christmas. Most of them have dropped all their leaves now, but I do have two that are holding on a bit.

Were I to have to do one while not dormant, I would bare root, cut, then dip the cut end in powdered sulfur...cinnamon if I didn't have sulfur available. Both are a bit hydrophilic. Both have anti-fungal properties. I'd leave them out overnight for the wound to dry a bit. Then I'd probably just repot and go easy on the water for a week or so. That's for a healthy tree. If they had obvious rot, I'd likely adjust that to be more conservative depending on how much rot.
 
I take no credit, it's my climate that's like a cheat code for broadleaf evergreens hahaha. If only I can spread some of this growth to the conifers...

Also, I think @LittleDingus has good growth with coco peat as well.
That tree in the pic is less than 1 year old?! It took me about 4 years to get mine that thick in our cool coastal, Mediterranean-like, temperate climate!
 
That tree in the pic is less than 1 year old?! It took me about 4 years to get mine that thick in our cool coastal, Mediterranean-like, temperate climate!

Water...the "secret" is water :)

Succulent = operatunistic. While actively growing, provide water. Just not so much they drown ;) once they stop growing...cut back the water hard!
 
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