Crab Apple Help

oliviad

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Hello!

I need some help with this crab apple… it’s no longer growing upright but jetting forward, and I have no idea what to do with it. I’m terrified of killing it, because this was one of my dad’s bonsais that I have been taking care of since he passed away. I’m fairly new to bonsai, still learning a lot and I don’t want to screw this up hahaha. It’s an established bonsai, probably 20 or 30 years old at this point or perhaps even older. I honestly can’t remember the last time it was repotted - a friend of my dad’s was helping out with his trees for a few years there and did a mass repotting of the bulk of them two or three years ago. It’s in a mix of akadama, lava rock, and pumice. I’m in central NJ if that helps. Images attached!
 

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Deep Sea Diver

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Looks like the tree is healthy, but the top may of died back from the dead looking patch above the growth. Scratch the bark in a couple places up above and see if green shows.

A couple toughts.

First there is no taper up above, not uncommon in crabapples, so losing this section would actually be a gain stylistically as the lower section has a nice curve that could be used to create a new top with more taper. This would need either some guy wires and/or a change in potting angle next year. Maybe both.

Second the nebari looks good… like it was worked at some time… but the tree is planted too high now.

Third it seems, as an observer the pot is too small for the health of the tree. I know, lots of folks just love to slam a tree in a small pot and leave it in the pot forever… Yeah, yeah, I know it’s a stylistic choice. (So sorry for the rant 😉). Yet we work with many trees and have found especially older trees need a break.

So these trees need to be potted up into something much larger, training pot, or box, for a couple of years to regain strength. If this is not done most trees experience a slow but steady decline, which includes throwing branches.
during .

Long story short, one might consider slip potting this tree into a larger pot… and grow the tree out a big larger…. for awhile, like two years. And plant the nebari lower so the major root structure is showing, but not below that.

It will thank you for doing so!

Cheers
DSD sends
 
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oliviad

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Thank you so much!

When you say slip pot - you mean just literally take it out of the pot and put it into a larger one, without disturbing anything? Do I just fill in the empty space with my substrate mix? Or do I loosen soil and repot that way. I guess I just don’t understand how I’m going to wire it into the pot. How much bigger should the pot be?

Also, the top is commmmmpletely dead! There is one bigger branch jutting out from one side which is where you see most of the flowers and leaves, and a smaller branch on the other side that has new growth on it as well.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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Thank you so much!

When you say slip pot - you mean just literally take it out of the pot and put it into a larger one, without disturbing anything? Do I just fill in the empty space with my substrate mix? Or do I loosen soil and repot that way. I guess I just don’t understand how I’m going to wire it into the pot. How much bigger should the pot be?

Here’s a brief run down of our slip potting procedure. Sort of a mini repotting.
  • Start with a pot about 1” bigger all around.. sides and bottom. Don’t sweat if not exactly perfect. Figure out the tie downs and insert screens once the pot is on board. Once wires/screens are in…
  • Use same media as was used before. ‘Drain’ area about one particle thick so bottom isn’t visible.
  • Cut wires, pop tree out of the pot etc
  • Gently Loosen, roots all around the top, edges and bottom a little bit. Don’t get too aggressive! The
  • - Here’s a tricky part - and it’s a subjective decision. If the inner media is drum tight it should be aerated. (If not - do nothing).
    Two ways to do this. Use 1/8-3/16” drill (long is best) and drill core - letting the drill find its way… 6-8 holes max to aerate the core. Do not force the drill. Or take a steel rod and do the same. We use drills as control is better, but either work.
  • Set the tree so decent angle and be sure nebari is properly settled. Don’t fret about angle too much.
  • Tie wires with a bit of give - leave ends so can final tighten later
  • Add media and chopstick under root ball and on sides. Once done tighten the wires.
  • Add small layer of media to surface to ensure nebari is set.
  • Final chopstick and rinse gently thoroughly to wash out dust. Then submerge to surface level in water for 5-10 mins. Take out, drain and rinse again
  • Add moss.

Please post images for others to see.

Build a bigger pot +3-4” all around new base this year. Then do a full repot next year. Cedar, Doug fir etc, but not pine.
Yep. Leave it for now. Can possibly be used for guy wires, Jin.
  • There is one bigger branch jutting out from one side which is where you see most of the flowers and leaves, and a smaller branch on the other side that has new growth on it as well.
Prune lightly once in end of May, again in late fall.

Spend time this year studying fruit tree designs. Good time to post images is winter for others to comment on.

Hope this helps!

Cheers
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oliviad

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Does this pot look okay? Just testing out different ones right now to see.
image.jpg
 

Orion_metalhead

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I am happy to come meet you and help you if you want. Tree needs to be repotted next year. It likely can stay in the current pot. The top is dead and can be removed. If you want to slip pot now into the bigger pot, that can work and you can adjust angle. Id probably cut off the flowers before they fruit for health. Tree looks like it has grown leggy and after first flush should be pruned back. Probably needs fertilizer as well.

Also, look into the local club: Deep Cut Bonsai Society. We meet in Middletown. Experienced members will be happy to assist you and give advice.
 
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oliviad

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I am happy to come meet you and help you if you want. Tree needs to be repotted next year. It likely can stay in the current pot. The top is dead and can be removed. If you want to slip pot now into the bigger pot, that can work and you can adjust angle.

Also, look into the local club: Deep Cut Bonsai Society. We meet in Middletown. Experienced members will be happy to assist you and give advice.
Ah, thank you so much! The bonsai society near me is the Great Swamp Bonsai Society — my dad belonged to it for years and years. I’d definitely try out some other ones too, though!

What do you think is the best thing to do: slip pot or leave it and repot next year?
 

Orion_metalhead

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Great Swamp has very knowledgeable members. Id meet them and ask for help. They probably would be happy to help given your fathers connection.

A slip pot is fine now. Make sure you lightly tease out the roots around the edges of the pot. Make sure the new soil is similar to the old if possible. Keep tree in slight shade for a few weeks to get situated. Id still repot properly next year. How was the tree overwintered?
 

Deep Sea Diver

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A slip pot is fine now. Make sure you lightly tease out the roots around the edges of the pot. Make sure the new soil is similar to the old if possible. Keep tree in slight shade for a few weeks to get situated. Id still repot properly next year. How was the tree overwintered?

Pot is fine for growing out and regaining strength. The advice above is great…

Would feed it well. Osmocite plus and every three weeks miracle grower for acid loving trees plus humic acid/kelp 5:1 ratio , except when hot stop the latter,

Was wondering three things. Overwintering technique, placement and if the tree was turned regularly

Cheers
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