Arakawa Japanese Maple

Autumn 2016 update. Next spring I plan on doing a much needed repotting and the tree will once again be pruned and wired where needed. The small third trunk is still in progress. It grew unchecked this past year. I am letting it thicken some more and then will be cut back drastically.










Finally the approach graft took and the union is now completely fused together. I cut off the entry portion back in July leaving a short stump which will be removed next year.

Love this one!! Good work Sir
 
As it looked yesterday after wiring it. I usually do not like to wire at this time of year, but looking at a very busy spring schedule, I went ahead with it to try and get ahead. It will be kept well protected and away from extreme winter temps. It was photographed slightly rotated showing a tweaked front angle. Guy wires were also removed.

Apexes coming along specially the one on the tallest trunk. I hope in two to three more years this tree can be shown. It will eventually need a better and slightly wider pot. Repotting is needed in the spring and most likely will make another root graft at that time.













The intended third small trunk keeps growing and developing well. I will probably leave it again to grow unchecked next year to thicken it more and then cut it back drastically in '18 and start the process of ramification. The fine small growth is important to keep healthy as they will be used later on in the design. These fine branches cannot get too shaded, so I usually keep the area right above it thinned out so light can penetrate.

 
I love the species and i love your work. Nice to see the bark crawl on the branches. I heard some use a white surface to reflect the sun to a shaded area, not sure if it might help.


Yes, this is a rather clever idea I had read somewhere and why, aesthetics aside, some of my benches are painted in a light cream color. I think it does help some, although this tree is usually placed on its own stand with the top made out of a slab of bluestone. Perhaps I may have to start placing it on one those benches? If I do, I will still need to do some strategic thinning up above.

The bark is also starting to creep into the roots which is nice. It will be a while though before they get fully covered. For some reason, it takes a lot longer for this process to happen on the roots themselves. This is a unique and striking looking maple variety. I have a couple in the ground that are probably many years away from seeing a bonsai pot.
 
Bonsoir Sergio,

'Arakawa' is a difficult tree to shape. Yours is outstanding : it looks very natural.

I saw a couple of remarkable Japanese 'Arakawa'. One can suggest, or even criticize, but for a non-Japanese, and even for Japanese standards, your tree is on the top shelf.

Félicitations ! :cool:
 
It appears that you have switched wholly to copper wire, is there a reason that you've made the switch? Looking good as ever. I see a less wild shadow of your amur in this tree...
 
It appears that you have switched wholly to copper wire, is there a reason that you've made the switch? Looking good as ever. I see a less wild shadow of your amur in this tree...

Judy, it seems that I have. Occasionally I still use aluminum and I may even mix the two together in one tree, usually on those that are still in first rough stages. But more and more I have taken to copper even for deciduous trees. The small gages are quite thin while still have good holding power. The wire tends to be more discreet and looks better in my opinion.
 
Beautiful tree Sergio, can you and have you ever used lime sulphur on an Arakawa maple? Also I plan on air layering a couple of branches from my Arakawa to use for root grafting but because of them being air layered they are a little bigger than my regular seedlings I plan to use on another green maple. Does that make a difference when it comes to a root graft taking.:)
 
Do you get more scarring from using the copper? I had been told that alum. is better in that regard.


Judy, I have noticed somewhat of a difference but not significant. I still wrap the thicker gages with floral tape when I have to do hard bends. This buys me a little more time with the wire. I don't think copper bites in at any alarming rates in my experience. In any case as you well know, ones needs to be very vigilant with deciduous trees in this regard.
 
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Beautiful tree Sergio, can you and have you ever used lime sulphur on an Arakawa maple? Also I plan on air layering a couple of branches from my Arakawa to use for root grafting but because of them being air layered they are a little bigger than my regular seedlings I plan to use on another green maple. Does that make a difference when it comes to a root graft taking.:)


Thanks Les! Yes I have used LS on this tree and as a matter of fact, it has it on now. You don't want too thick of a tree to use for root grafts. It just becomes tougher to use but certainly can be done. I have the same issue, with two air layers that are a little too thick for root grafting but will use them anyway. Just make sure you carve a clean groove deep and wide enough to insert at least half way in (preferably more) your air layered branch. Thickness in the end does not really matter, but your technique does! :)
 
Very nice tree and inspirational work Sergio. It's wonderful to see how far you've taken this tree. I myself was gifted a Arakawa last year by a friend. It was repotted this year and the basic structure was set. The tree was very weak and is building strength now, hopefully it will make a fun project in the coming years. They do have an awkward growth tendency and the internodes are a bit much at times. But all is forgiven with the bark and Fall colors. I'll be sure to reach out to you for tips and tricks on the species in the future.
 

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Very nice tree and inspirational work Sergio. It's wonderful to see how far you've taken this tree. I myself was gifted a Arakawa last year by a friend. It was repotted this year and the basic structure was set. The tree was very weak and is building strength now, hopefully it will make a fun project in the coming years. They do have an awkward growth tendency and the internodes are a bit much at times. But all is forgiven with the bark and Fall colors. I'll be sure to reach out to you for tips and tricks on the species in the future.


Thanks Chris! Fantastic piece of material you have! Should be a really fun project. As you know, first thing is to get it vigorous and rocking again. Looks like it's doing well now.

Arakawa's growth is coarser than many other Japanese maple varieties. It is tough to make good, refined looking shohin out of them and why larger sizes look better. Eventually as the tree ramifies, you'll notice that it starts producing smaller leaves and smaller internodes. But they are rugged looking trees and why going for a natural design is better than going for a more "stylized" look. Also remember, it will not produce buds readily from old bark. You will have to resort to thread or approach grafting in order to create branching if needed.
 
Fantastic tree Mach - really enjoying watching what you have been doing with it.

I'm struggling to get my head around the whole root graft concept. Do you basically create an approach graft low down on the trunk with a young sapling and when it's taken, remove all the top growth? Does the fusing of the main trunk and the sapling's trunk sustain the now unattached saplings root?
 
70BECF1C-89DE-4124-9FC2-43817F63C266.png Thanks for for all the info. I plan on doing some air layers on this arakawa . I have some branches in mind some are pointing down any suggestions on air layering them?
 
Fantastic tree Mach - really enjoying watching what you have been doing with it.

I'm struggling to get my head around the whole root graft concept. Do you basically create an approach graft low down on the trunk with a young sapling and when it's taken, remove all the top growth? Does the fusing of the main trunk and the sapling's trunk sustain the now unattached saplings root?


Thanks Andy! Yes that is exactly what it is. The type of root graft I made is an approach graft. Once it has taken, the top is cut right above the union. The now attached part will be sustained by the parent tree. The key here is you almost must have surgical precision for a successful and good looking graft.
 
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