Zelkova dying!??

[Juanmi]

So, just to clarify. Do I need to take all the leaves off? The smaller one is in a worse state!

As for the bigger one, should I not just take the worse leaves on and keep the better ones?

Did you see my reply about the substrate?

If you want you can defoliate to force the tree to grow new leaves, if not the tree will do it itself. I usually let the tree do its thing, mother nature is wise.

And, I agree with you, don't throw it

 

[Mr. Joey]

I will definitely be doing that. Next few days will most likely give both sun and rain as well so I'll be putting it back outside as recommended!

Around what month would be the best to repot it in good soil? I'll definitely be doj

 

[penumbra]

With the plants in that condition I would leave the few leaves it has. The tree will part with those leaves sooner or later without intervention. There is much great information above but the problem started with the plant being inside.

 

[Mr. Joey]

Did you see my reply about the substrate?

If you want you can defoliate to force the tree to grow new leaves, if not the tree will do it itself. I usually let the tree do its thing, mother nature is wise.

And, I agree with you, don't throw it

Yes! Sorry I didn't reply. I'll be watering them with immersion and putting them back outside where there will be lots of rain coming days as well!

 

[Juanmi]

I will definitely be doing that. Next few days will most likely give both sun and rain as well so I'll be putting it back outside as recommended!

Around what month would be the best to repot it in good soil? I'll definitely be doj

Best time to repot is by the end of February / beginning of March.

When you see the new buds are swelling.

That being said, be careful to not overwater

 

[Mr. Joey]

Best time to repot is by the end of February / beginning of March.

When you see the new buds are swelling.

Ok I'll make sure I have everything ready to do it by then and make sure my knowledge is fully updated. I've only gotten these trees in June and so far it's been difficult seeing what exactly they need as a beginner.

Any recommendations for soil? I honestly want the best for the tree.

You guys have all been amazing so far giving tips and helping me out! Hopefully I can actually make it work...

 

[Juanmi]

Ok I'll make sure I have everything ready to do it by then and make sure my knowledge is fully updated. I've only gotten these trees in June and so far it's been difficult seeing what exactly they need as a beginner.

Any recommendations for soil? I honestly want the best for the tree.

You guys have all been amazing so far giving tips and helping me out! Hopefully I can actually make it work...

I use 80% Akadama, 20% Kiriuzuna. But those are imported from Japan, so not always easy to find and sometimes overpriced.

You have to find a draining soil, maybe pumice and mix it with something else. Let's see what others use. I'm sure if you search for soil threads here you'll see a lot to choose from.

 

[Mr. Joey]

Yes I'll be reading up on the forum a lot regarding everything. Ty for that! I'll see if it's possible to get here

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Taking the leaves off will expose the branches to more light. Remove them all.

This may or may not provoke budding, but it should kick up the cortical photosynthetic apparatus (CPA) that is present in the young branches, stimulating production of sugars and starches. Albeit not profuse as a full head of foliage, but the CPA can help the tree survive.

Only soaking the rootball could effectively allow water to permeate the soil… and could not. For example: I’ve explored rootballs of azaleas repotted in Kanuma without a full rootwash, only to discover field soil packed under the trunk bone dry.

To help percolation, try this. Take a thin instrument (like a bamboo kabob stick) and gently insert it through the rootball, maneuvering the stick so it move around the fleshly elm roots as it penetrates. Aim inward. Do 5-6 times all quadrants. Then soak. Cover any holes with soil.

If it is going to rain a lot, please prop up one side of each pot to increase the drainage so the rootball will to avoid the rootball becoming a puddle of muddy water in a week. We do this a lot here to good effect as our spring and fall rains are seemingly endless.

You might spend some time checking around to a local club website for recommended bonsai deciduous premixes for your area if you don’t have a shop to query. I’m sure 80/20 akadama/Kiriuzuna or akadama/pumice would work fine for an elm. I use 50/25/25 + hort charcoal (akadama/pumice/lava) out here.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[giventofly]

This may or may not provoke budding, but it should kick up the cortical photosynthetic apparatus (CPA) that is present in the young branches, stimulating production of sugars and starches. Albeit not profuse as a full head of foliage, but the CPA can help the tree survive.

Always had this doubt if the trunk could do anything to produce energy