Young Trident Maple Help

Thank you! To clean up the cut's made by the nursery could I just take my rounded concave cutters to them and seal them up with cut paste? Once I find a good candidate to wire as the new leader, would I just wire it vertically and let it grow like that? Would I need to chop the trunk to where that new leader is? I really appreciate all of the good advice from the community!
Your suggestion will work, however you might as well practice a more careful approach. Use a saw to cut carefully on an angle. Determine the position of the cut by identifying a bud or twig that can become the new leader. Once the saw cut is made, use a sharp tool to create a slight concave dip to the cut and then clean the edge with a sharp knife. Apply cut paste, making sure that that edges are covered and sticking well.
When wiring up the expected new leader use a looser wrap and check it frequently. Tridents grow quickly and the wire could begin to cut in within a few short weeks! You can loosen and reapply the wire as needed!
Because you are starting out in the hobby I would suggest a very helpful relatively inexpensive book on maples by Peter Adams.($35) Published in 2006, titled Bonsai with Japanese maples. Wonderful information that has a lot of transferability to developing other deciduous species. Chapter two on Bonsai development methods is excellent.
 

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Your suggestion will work, however you might as well practice a more careful approach. Use a saw to cut carefully on an angle. Determine the position of the cut by identifying a bud or twig that can become the new leader. Once the saw cut is made, use a sharp tool to create a slight concave dip to the cut and then clean the edge with a sharp knife. Apply cut paste, making sure that that edges are covered and sticking well.
When wiring up the expected new leader use a looser wrap and check it frequently. Tridents grow quickly and the wire could begin to cut in within a few short weeks! You can loosen and reapply the wire as needed!
Because you are starting out in the hobby I would suggest a very helpful relatively inexpensive book on maples by Peter Adams.($35) Published in 2006, titled Bonsai with Japanese maples. Wonderful information that has a lot of transferability to developing other deciduous species. Chapter two on Bonsai development methods is excellent.
I'll be sure to try the more careful approach when the time comes! Sorry for all of the questions, but the soil has very, very poor drainage, does this need to be addressed directly by changing it or can I just make sure to water conservatively?
 
That depends on how poorly it drains. If water continues to sit on the surface five minutes later than a repot is a wise choice. If it disappears from the surface but takes a longer time to dry out between waterings then that is manageable. Difficult to judge via the internet.
Individual judgement of very poor drainage varies. Your question could elicit a whole range of what ifs.
 
For this year I would clean up the cut made by the nursery and seal it. As the tree grows a bit this year, I would also select a branch near the top and wire it to take over as a new leader. This will promote faster growth and a thicker base, the sooner there is a new leader to take over.
Generally I would agree but it looks like the cut in question is right at the top of an overly tall trunk. Much of this trunk will surely be removed to create taper at some stage so there is little to be gained from making precise cuts, sealing and wiring new leaders way up there except to practice the techniques.

If the current soil drains poorly please resist the temptation to slip pot it into a larger pot. Poor soil inside better soil can be a recipe for disaster. It looks like it is just a fraction late for a real repot of this tree for a beginner. I'm confident the tree would survive here but could not guarantee it for all people in all areas. Managing watering to suit the soil would be a safer option for this season. Another possible option would be to place the pot on bare soil and let the roots grow into the soil below the pot. Once roots have entered the ground root problems seem to cease to be a problem and the tree will grow and thicken amazingly fast over a single season.

How you develop this trident will ultimately depend on your vision and what you expect as the result. Most beginners are satisfied with a relatively thin trunk as long as it has a bushy top. That is relatively quick and easy to achieve but if your vision is of an impressive trunk and really great branches that will require quite a few years and more skill.
I think all first trees should be viewed as expendable learning aids. Many will die! The vast majority will end up with some sort of visual or health issues so best not to get too attached to your first attempts.

Have fun and learn about responses to various techniques. Keep asking questions but be aware that there are many ways to achieve similar things with living trees so advice may seem contradictory at times. Some things are definitely far easier to explain in person than in written format so finding a local source is so much easier than internet forum. Look for a local club and join up at the first opportunity. Also look for bonsai specialist nurseries where you can browse the trees try to work out tree response to various techniques. Even better if the staff are willing to spend time talking and explaining.
 
so there is little to be gained from making precise cuts, sealing and wiring new leaders way up there except to practice the techniques.
If it prevents fungal infection from spreading and the cut heals properly. I consider that an important gain, particularly when working with maples. The black color apparent is a warning sign in my opinion regardless of position on the tree. Never hurts to practice things correctly if one wishes to improve.

Wiring the leader up will gain faster growth and the tree can be grown with apical extension without further ado. Also a benefit in my opinion.
 
That depends on how poorly it drains. If water continues to sit on the surface five minutes later than a repot is a wise choice. If it disappears from the surface but takes a longer time to dry out between waterings then that is manageable. Difficult to judge via the internet.
Individual judgement of very poor drainage varies. Your question could elicit a whole range of what ifs.
The water doesn't sit at the top at all, but the soil has a pretty muddy consistency and holds water in for a relatively long time. I think that I am going to hold off on repotting for now until it is a safer time to do so. I also noticed what appeared to be a millipede larva in the soil, I've read that they feed on organic material in the soil and can potentially damage roots, I assume this isn't something to be concerned about but was just wondering what you thought? Thank you!
 
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The water doesn't sit at the top at all, but the soil has a pretty muddy consistency and holds water in for a relatively long time. I think that I am going to hold off on repotting for now until it is a safer time to do so. I also noticed what appeared to be a millipede larva in the soil, I've read that they feed on organic material in the soil and can potentially damage roots, I assume this isn't something to be concerned about but was just wondering what you thought? Thank you!
No worries with them millipede! Just manage the watering to keep some moisture for the tree but not too wet. With your location and the warmer weather in that neck of the woods it should be fine. It would be more of a problem in my neck of the woods with cool wet winters and cool wet spring. When you do repot check with the local area professionals for best substrate balance for your ability to water. if your work keeps you away for longer days or extended days you may choose a more moisture retentive mix than if you are home every day and can water frequently if needed. Jonas Dupuich has written some good articles on adapting bonsai mixes for species and climate lately. They can be found on Bonsai Tonight. There are also lots of experienced people on this forum that live in your state.
 
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