Where to cut? Overgrown literati procumbens

[Alex W.]

Hey everyone, I’ve neglected this literati nana that I got from a buddy and it’s definitely starting to overgrow. Before I start wiring the pads, I’m not really sure where and what I should cut? Any tips and advice would be appreciated! I’ve looked up what to do with the needle portions and new bud growth but still unsure on what I could cut and what would grow back, sort of speak

I am open to ideas on whether to keep it compact or grow some of the lower branches out to give it more depth?

 

[Joe Dupre']

First thing I would do is prune any growth in the crotches. Next I would trim shoots and/or needles growing less than about a half inch from any fork. That should give you a good starting point for wiring.

 

[Alex W.]

First thing I would do is prune any growth in the crotches. Next I would trim shoots and/or needles growing less than about a half inch from any fork. That should give you a good starting point for wiring.

What about any shoots that are showing new growth tips that are within that half inch? Specifically tips that are the only “growing” tips and not at the ends of a branch?

 

[Joe Dupre']

If you want to keep those future branches in the design, you can let them grow. "Normally" , though, literati are pretty sparse. I find the bare space next to a fork gives an older feel to the tree.

 

[sorce]

I don't think you have to or should remove any more foliage than that which comes off Wiring.

Sorce

 

[Potawatomi13]

Nice trunk.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

I am no expert on juniper, but I would opine that less cutting, means less juvenile foliage. Also, if you have two redundant branches, pick the shorter one.

I would error on the side of a careful wiring and not take much off.

 

[Alex W.]

What is the rule of thumb with nana when it comes to needle vs scale foliage? I’m working on another nana that’s overgrown and not sure where to cut to get scale back? Or is that even a thing?

 

[MrFancyPlants]

From what I understand the less you cut the more scale you get. Depending on the the variety, there is an entire spectrum of how “touchy” for reverting to needle.
Getting the form set and then letting it adjust to it’s pot, root restricted, for a number of years is required for mature foliage on some.

 

[Shibui]

It is really hard to assess a tree when all we have are photos taken at odd angles. We really need to see the tree from viewing height. looking down at an angle does not give a good idea of branch length or placement. The final shot is closer to the right angle but from the look of the lower trunk that's probably the back of the tree.
Even with the photos you have supplied I am getting the impression of way too many branches for literati style. That is actually pretty common for beginners to retain way too much on most trees to make it look 'full'.

You also need to understand that while literati looks easy it is actually one of the more difficult styles to do really well.

 

[Alex W.]

It is really hard to assess a tree when all we have are photos taken at odd angles. We really need to see the tree from viewing height. looking down at an angle does not give a good idea of branch length or placement. The final shot is closer to the right angle but from the look of the lower trunk that's probably the back of the tree.
Even with the photos you have supplied I am getting the impression of way too many branches for literati style. That is actually pretty common for beginners to retain way too much on most trees to make it look 'full'.

You also need to understand that while literati looks easy it is actually one of the more difficult styles to do really well.

The second photo is a different tree. Should’ve started a second post, but my question is moreso on the dynamics of trimming a procumbens nana and the aspects of its growth habits. Needle vs scale foliage, etc

 

[Lazylightningny]

Personally, I don't prune any foliage on junipers until later June or July, when new foliage hardens. It needs all those growing tips to harden and begin photosynthesizing to recover from putting out new growth.

 

[PA_Penjing]

wow I really like that trunk. don't rush anything. Let this tree get some strength by just growing. Perhaps the same guy who gave it to you could help choose what to eliminate? If you want advice here, Shibui is correct, youll need better pics of the tree. Try to hold the camera level with the center of the tree with a white background, and snap a shot of each side of the tree.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

That bullet hole a quarter of the way up is really distracting.

 

[Gabler]

That bullet hole a quarter of the way up is really distracting.

The little spiral/loop in the trunk? I guess there's no accounting for taste. To each their own.

 

[sorce]

The second photo is a different tree. Should’ve started a second post, but my question is moreso on the dynamics of trimming a procumbens nana and the aspects of its growth habits. Needle vs scale foliage, etc

The only time you have to worry about it converting foliage is trimming before a show.

It is technically impossible to develop a tree properly and never have it convert. Then, by the time it reaches finished, it's almost impossible to ruin it because you are only maintainence trimming.

@Shibui was recently talking in a pine thread about how people love to talk about what they know about refinement (cuz it's the cool thing) but not many people know about development.

This "worrying" about needle/scale foilage is the same.

It is waste of your time to think about it.

The "worry" is a fad that can't happen and doesn't matter while in development.

Sorce

 

[Forsoothe!]

I think you might progress thru the process like so...