D'Angelo
Mame
Any ideas on what's causing this, is it normal?..doesn't look like old needle droppage.
What's causing this??
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Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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Was it pinched recently? If not, check for mites. If no mites, I suppose it could be fungal, though I'm really not sure. October had mucho fungal issues last year that, I think, looked a bit like this. He'll be around later today, I bet.
bonsaibp
Omono
I'm going to guess root problems-how long since it's been repotted?
bumblebee
Mame
What kind of plant is this?
coh
Imperial Masterpiece
Juniper, probably shimpaku.
I've had a problem like this on one of my junipers. It's been a persistent issue. I've checked for spider mites and never found evidence of their existence. Have treated with insecticide "just in case", also fungicide. In my case I'm figuring it's either cultural (root/water issue) or a fungus that I haven't been able to control.
Good luck and please keep us informed.
Chris
I've had a problem like this on one of my junipers. It's been a persistent issue. I've checked for spider mites and never found evidence of their existence. Have treated with insecticide "just in case", also fungicide. In my case I'm figuring it's either cultural (root/water issue) or a fungus that I haven't been able to control.
Good luck and please keep us informed.
Chris
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Are you pinching this with fingertips or cutting out shoots with scissors to maintain profile.
This just looks like careless pinching with the fingertips.
This just looks like careless pinching with the fingertips.
october
Masterpiece
I have been dealing with this for 2 years and I do have some answers that might be helpful. Although I have not been able to narrow it down to one cause. It is probably because there is more than one reason for it.
First, improper or too much pinching would cause this. Second, possibly heavy root pruning. Third, too much water in a soil that is not draining. Forth, general shedding. I do not think that pesticides or fungicides will do anything to help this issue because it is neither. Although it could be root rot, that is a fungal root issue, not a topical fungus.
Having said this. Baring the situation where this tree was not pinched and it is not shedding season, it is most likely too much water in a soil that is not draining. The soil it is in looks like dirt in the pic. If it were my tree. I would take it out of the pot, comb out all the roots and remove most of the old soil. I would NOT cut any roots, unless they were rotted of course. I would hose off the inside of the pot (just something I do) and repot the tree into good soil. I would give the tree morning sun immediately for a couple of weeks then full sun. As far as winter care, I would not let this tree freeze this winter. Also, if the roots were in bad shape and much manipulation was done. If you have a spot that is in the low 40's to low 50's and gets about 3 hours of sun a day. That might be a good idea.
Also, this can be a very long process. Once this starts, it can go on for many months 3 to 4 months plus. Also, even if you remedy the situation, it will take a while to stabilize. One other thing, if it is a root issue, you will need to do something. It will most likely not stop until the problem is corrected.
I hope this was helpful.
Rob
First, improper or too much pinching would cause this. Second, possibly heavy root pruning. Third, too much water in a soil that is not draining. Forth, general shedding. I do not think that pesticides or fungicides will do anything to help this issue because it is neither. Although it could be root rot, that is a fungal root issue, not a topical fungus.
Having said this. Baring the situation where this tree was not pinched and it is not shedding season, it is most likely too much water in a soil that is not draining. The soil it is in looks like dirt in the pic. If it were my tree. I would take it out of the pot, comb out all the roots and remove most of the old soil. I would NOT cut any roots, unless they were rotted of course. I would hose off the inside of the pot (just something I do) and repot the tree into good soil. I would give the tree morning sun immediately for a couple of weeks then full sun. As far as winter care, I would not let this tree freeze this winter. Also, if the roots were in bad shape and much manipulation was done. If you have a spot that is in the low 40's to low 50's and gets about 3 hours of sun a day. That might be a good idea.
Also, this can be a very long process. Once this starts, it can go on for many months 3 to 4 months plus. Also, even if you remedy the situation, it will take a while to stabilize. One other thing, if it is a root issue, you will need to do something. It will most likely not stop until the problem is corrected.
I hope this was helpful.
Rob
D'Angelo
Mame
Thanks everyone, this is a Shimpaku. I do not pinch foliage so its not caused from that, no mites that I can see. Seems to only be affecting one branch. ??
Stan Kengai
Omono
I had a similar looking problem with a shimp a few years ago that I had bought from a bonsai nursery. Turned out, in my case, to be snails. Who'd have thought? I would never have guessed until I caught one of the culprits in the act, but they apparently will eat the tender new growth.
how long have you had the juniper??
it may not be a disease.... it may be a variegated chinese juniper just doing what it does, turning yellow.
id never seen one until about six months ago when I was at my local bonsai nursery and noticed a juniper with yellow patches, I asked Leong what was going on and he explained it is a Juniperus Chinensis auro-varigata. below is a pick of the tree after it has been sitting in the corner of his nursery for 15 years, and another after he gave it a style
it may not be a disease.... it may be a variegated chinese juniper just doing what it does, turning yellow.
id never seen one until about six months ago when I was at my local bonsai nursery and noticed a juniper with yellow patches, I asked Leong what was going on and he explained it is a Juniperus Chinensis auro-varigata. below is a pick of the tree after it has been sitting in the corner of his nursery for 15 years, and another after he gave it a style
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nathanbs
Omono
how long have you had the juniper??
it may not be a disease.... it may be a variegated chinese juniper just doing what it does, turning yellow.
id never seen one until about six months ago when I was at my local bonsai nursery and noticed a juniper with yellow patches, I asked Leong what was going on and he explained it is a Juniperus Chinensis auro-varigata. below is a pick of the tree after it has been sitting in the corner of his nursery for 15 years, and another after he gave it a style
D'angelo I think Paul is right, you have possibly the worlds first variegated kishu shimpaku
Sorry couldnt resist im in one of those moods
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
D'angelo I think Paul is right, you have possibly the worlds first variegated kishu shimpaku
Just in case the above might have been taken seriously; that is not the case. Most of the time I have run into problems with Shimps it is due to root issues, either too wet, too root bound, too dry, soil to compacted, or the tree is not secure in it's environment. With the damage being confined to only one branch seems to indiate that the issue may be associated with one major root under stress.
october
Masterpiece
Couple other things I would like to add to my reply. Providing it is not typical shedding. Once, whatever this is begins, it is very difficult to stop. It usually goes on for a very long time as well. Sometimes 6 months or more. Unfortuantley, although the progression is slow. In many cases, the end is the death of a protion of the branch or the whole branch. Also, it is usually the lower branches.
Rob
Rob
yenling83
Omono
I would guess and can kind of see that the top sections and apex of the tree are not experiencing this on the tips of the foliage. The top of the tree is healthier, which is partially why you don’t see the damage up top. This is likely not just standard shedding, because standard shedding comes from the inside out. The tree sheds it's older interior needles and let's anything that is getting more light grow out to increase photosynthetic surface area.
I also am not seeing any runners at the ends of the foliage. Runners are the main sign of strength with Junipers. Which mean you may have pinched them off, or it could be a fertilizer, soil, sun or stress issues. Instead of pinching you want to cut them back to the next small branch, so that branch can become the new leader(like Smoke said). I'm not exactly sure why, but weaker areas on a tree seem more susceptible to this type of damage and damage from insects.
If it were my tree i'd spray with insecticide and fungicide once a month, feed more often during the growing season and try to water as correctly as possible. You want to make sure the tree is growing strongly before working on it and “Pinching” should only be done in the refinement stages of development.
I also am not seeing any runners at the ends of the foliage. Runners are the main sign of strength with Junipers. Which mean you may have pinched them off, or it could be a fertilizer, soil, sun or stress issues. Instead of pinching you want to cut them back to the next small branch, so that branch can become the new leader(like Smoke said). I'm not exactly sure why, but weaker areas on a tree seem more susceptible to this type of damage and damage from insects.
If it were my tree i'd spray with insecticide and fungicide once a month, feed more often during the growing season and try to water as correctly as possible. You want to make sure the tree is growing strongly before working on it and “Pinching” should only be done in the refinement stages of development.
Eric Group
Masterpiece
I agree with the root issue assessment. My useful advice pretty much stops here, as my Shimpaku that had a similar fade of vigor one summer died eventually, so obviously I have limited useful advice except to say it looks like a similar issue, and i was certain after it died that I had let it go too long between repots... I had it in a small training pot, planned to repot the following Spring and the poor tree didn't make it through a very hot summer!
It was all on me... Maybe yours has been repotted recently and has plenty of room, if that is the case, check the soil at the bottom of the pot to make sure it isn't staying too wet or too dry...
Good luck!!
It was all on me... Maybe yours has been repotted recently and has plenty of room, if that is the case, check the soil at the bottom of the pot to make sure it isn't staying too wet or too dry...
Good luck!!
GO-OK
Mame
Is this a lower branch?
Do some checking on kabatina and or phomopsis tip blights. Mancozeb is a good start at treating. Follow the label....every 7-10 days etc.... Unlike several others posting, I've diagnosed, treated and rid my trees of this with mancozeb, plenty of sun. Follow up with preventive daconil every 3 weeks.
Either of these tip blights will attack new growth..which yours is.
They will cause the newest growth to turn reddish and then to yellowing and brown. The brown foliage will dry and drop off. It moves from the lower branches up the tree.
Don't cut it off. Treat it. Let it dry and fall off. Your affected branched may get pretty darn scragly and bare before its gone. Then let the tree grow a year and gain strength. Remember junipers strength is in their foliage. The more there is the stronger the tree will grow.
Do some checking on kabatina and or phomopsis tip blights. Mancozeb is a good start at treating. Follow the label....every 7-10 days etc.... Unlike several others posting, I've diagnosed, treated and rid my trees of this with mancozeb, plenty of sun. Follow up with preventive daconil every 3 weeks.
Either of these tip blights will attack new growth..which yours is.
They will cause the newest growth to turn reddish and then to yellowing and brown. The brown foliage will dry and drop off. It moves from the lower branches up the tree.
Don't cut it off. Treat it. Let it dry and fall off. Your affected branched may get pretty darn scragly and bare before its gone. Then let the tree grow a year and gain strength. Remember junipers strength is in their foliage. The more there is the stronger the tree will grow.
D'Angelo
Mame
The problem is not wide spread, on the whole foliage pad there may be around 10 or so needles that are affected, not sure if its anything to worry about yet.In the mean time , I am keeping my eye on it and provided some more pics
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