What makes a great pot?

[Notsureaboutplantnames]

I am not in the market for exceptional, nor do I expect to make exceptional.
I am thankful for everyone's comments and suggestions for potters and what criteria to look for to see what I am not seeing yet.

 

[River's Edge]

I do not consider extra holes for wire a requirement, more of a modern luxury that may or may not be present in a better quality pot. Very functional and definately easier to work with if present. Not one of the features I would include or expect when selecting a " show quality pot".
When I check over the pots I consider to be the best quality they are not usually present. Just an observation.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I do not consider extra holes for wire a requirement, more of a modern luxury that may or may not be present in a better quality pot. Very functional and definately easier to work with if present. Not one of the features I would include or expect when selecting a " show quality pot".
When I check over the pots I consider to be the best quality they are not usually present. Just an observation.

Totally agree. The correct number of well-placed drainage holes are plenty.

 

[Gabler]

Totally agree. The correct number of well-placed drainage holes are plenty.

Maybe you guys can answer a question that's always bothered me. Why not cover the whole bottom of the pot in wire holes instead of using a few big holes? It would be nice if I didn't need to use mesh to keep the substrate in the pot. Why not make the holes smaller and have more of them?

 

[caffeinated]

Maybe you guys can answer a question that's always bothered me. Why not cover the whole bottom of the pot in wire holes instead of using a few big holes? It would be nice if I didn't need to use mesh to keep the substrate in the pot. Why not make the holes smaller and have more of them?

The surface tension of water together with the shallower gravity column can keep some water from draining through small wire holes, but surface tension can't hold across larger drain holes.

 

[Paradox]

I agree with others comments about functionality, craftsmanship and frost proof.
I'm also a fan of muted glazes for most pots. The pot should not distract from the tree but compliment it.

I also see a lot of new potters making mostly round pots. Round pots are easiest to make because of pottery wheels I suspect. But as Bonsai Nut said, less than 10% of trees are suitable for a round pot.

 

[Paradox]

Maybe you guys can answer a question that's always bothered me. Why not cover the whole bottom of the pot in wire holes instead of using a few big holes? It would be nice if I didn't need to use mesh to keep the substrate in the pot. Why not make the holes smaller and have more of them?

The surface tension of water together with the shallower gravity column can keep some water from draining through small wire holes, but surface tension can't hold across larger drain holes.

Also many small holes across the bottom will make the bottom much weaker and subject to breakage

 

[rockm]

Maybe you guys can answer a question that's always bothered me. Why not cover the whole bottom of the pot in wire holes instead of using a few big holes? It would be nice if I didn't need to use mesh to keep the substrate in the pot. Why not make the holes smaller and have more of them?

As said, large holes drain better than smaller ones. I have stopped buying pots with a lot of small drain holes instead of a few well-placed larger ones.

 

[R0b]

To bring it to the next level

Main point antique Cinese pots don’t have wire holes, for a modern pots their presence, and positioning (behind feet) to me are are a sign of quality.

 

[River's Edge]

Maybe you guys can answer a question that's always bothered me. Why not cover the whole bottom of the pot in wire holes instead of using a few big holes? It would be nice if I didn't need to use mesh to keep the substrate in the pot. Why not make the holes smaller and have more of them?

I like this question, upon reflection I believe the comment with respect to surface tension is an important one. I find that it is critical to use larger aggregate on the bottom Anderson flats to ensure proper drainage even with the screen type mesh bottom. Smaller particle or compacted soil results in too much water retention otherwise. With respect, I am referring to shallow layers of larger aggregate so as to avoid the " perching effect". To be fair part of the problem with Anderson flats is the type of surface they are put on due to the absence of feet in the design. However with a lot of experience using them in my nursery the multi hole small openings can create an issue. When the screen is placed correctly in the pot holes this is avoided. ( rough side down) .

 

[michaelj]

Tie down holes, a flat bottom or a sloped bottom that slopes towards the pot exit, it has to have the "structural integrity ring" when you tap it with a finger nail, if it has feet: more than 3, if it has a flat bottom or rim bottom: make sure the tie down wire isn't what the pot ends up standing on. FROST RESISTANCE.
...
If a pot doesn't survive my multi-freeze-thaw winters, the maker is on the blacklist for me. I can't have that happen.

That is first and foremost. If you use a low fire terracotta that doesn't fully vitrify, or you under fire your clay, it will absorb water, and with every frost, that water inside the clay will expand and contract, and over time - sometimes a very short amount of time - it will destroy the structural integrity of the pot and your pot will start sloughing off, collapse, or even turn to soft mush.

Every time I use a new clay - especially with all the native clay I've collected and processed - before I make a pot out of it, I make a test tile and fire it to whatever cone I expect to fire my pots at. Then I weigh the bar with a digital scale and boil the test tile for at least an hour, then wipe it dry and weigh it again. If it has gained any weight, the pots you fire with that clay to that cone will not be frost resistant.