What kind of material would you like to see more of?

I do plan to provide camelias for bonsai. Any other flowering species recommendations would be appreciated :)
I am very interested in camellias for bonsai and already have picked up a few locally to experiment with after watching some video of Arthur Joura doing one and the guy in South Africa.
 
Pauls scarlet Hawthorn, smaller leaved crabapples, smaller leaved and disease resistant cherry, dogwood

Oh yeah, Japanese Beech and any other beech, and basically any white trunked tree like birch. Who doesn't love a good white trunk bonsai specimen...
Yes to all of the above. Plus keep in mind that some of us don't want giant trees, so big isn't always the goal.
 
Yes to all of the above. Plus keep in mind that some of us don't want giant trees, so big isn't always the goal.
Very good point. Most of what i am planning to sell as bonsai will be mame or shohin size. And of course starter plants can become any size you want them to be :)
 
I love the really "blue" cultivars of JWP. But when grafted on JBP, the roots of JBP are marginally hardy in my area. I've lost most JBP that were left out without greenhouse protection. I would like to see JWP select cultivars grafted on to zone 4 hardy understock, like Pinus flexilis (limber pine), strobus (American white pine), or on to JWP seedlings. JWP is hardy into zone 4, but seedlings are a crap shoot. Most have yellowish needles, often twisting needles, and really don't look good. Seeing a batch of seedlings you will appreciate how rare and choice the cultivars with straight blue needles are. Even the more green cultivars like 'Zuisho' are far superior to the average seedlings.

So yes, propagate JWP cultivars by grafting, but please make some on more cold tolerant stock than JBP. Use JWP or limber pine or even jack pine.

Jack pine, Pinus banksiana, is the only North American pine native to areas as cold as zone 3. There's some wonderful short needle cultivars that could be grafted onto other similarly hardy understock or just graft Jack pine cultivars onto Jack pine seedlings. As bonsai general care is like that for Scotts pine, single flush. Jack's absolutely require full sun. No shade or they fade away. I left one in an Anderson flat on the farm in Michigan, 3 years, watered sometimes in summer, but fall, winter and spring, full sun, no water beyond rainfall. Fully exposed to frigid cold and sun all winter, it thrived. The shade in my back yard after selling the farm is what did it in. Drought tolerant, shade intolerant.
 
japanese maple and trident maple kabudachi starters (a la the bjorn clump)

A lot of people watch that youtube video thinking they are creating kabudachi, when what they are really creating are single-trunk trees that temporarily look like kabudachi but will end up as single-trunk trees especially as each trunk thickens with time.

I mention this only because if you're about to repot a bunch of material, you may (or may not) want to leave more space in between your trunks

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As opposed to trunks with more space between them:

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A lot of people watch that youtube video thinking they are creating kabudachi, when what they are really creating are single-trunk trees that temporarily look like kabudachi but will end up as single-trunk trees especially as each trunk thickens with time.

I mention this only because if you're about to repot a bunch of material, you may (or may not) want to leave more space in between your trunks

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As opposed to trunks with more space between them:

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I do 100% agree with this. I believe most great old kabudachi maples in japan were created by natural fusion in a pot over decades rather than tying together with a wire.

Ive seen other methods like using boards with saplings threaded through that i want to explore.

To your point it is apparent which of these maples from the green club were tied together and which one probably fused naturally
 

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A lot of people watch that youtube video thinking they are creating kabudachi, when what they are really creating are single-trunk trees that temporarily look like kabudachi but will end up as single-trunk trees especially as each trunk thickens with time.

I mention this only because if you're about to repot a bunch of material, you may (or may not) want to leave more space in between your trunks

View attachment 584105

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As opposed to trunks with more space between them:

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That could be remedied by placing the trees through holes more spaced out in a tile or board, they'd ground layer themselves and root fuse in the ground pretty quickly I would imagine.

Im a fan of those low dividing broom style single trunk trees too though, the one you shared with @Walter Pall is quite amazing. I'm sure many, including me, would dish out a stack of Benjamins for material like that.
 
Is there any interest here in Kokedama (moss ball) plantings? I am going to put together some japanese maple and korean hornbeam kokedama and will list a few for sale.
 
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