Twisted shimpaku

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,809
Reaction score
15,745
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
Mid summer down here and I'm just potting up some shimpaku layers.

I started growing twisted junipers after talking to a friend who had worked in Japanese bonsai nurseries. Rather than growing straight, uninteresting trunks they were developing strongly bent and twisted trunks in lieu of being able to collect mountain stock.

Initially I was striking small cuttings then waiting a couple of years for them to grow before wiring and twisting. That approach had a number of drawbacks.
Then I discovered I could strike long thin cuttings and bypass the first growing bit. Saves a couple of years but I was still potting up the straight cuttings and waiting for them to settle into the pots before wiring and bending. Still not satisfied with the bends, especially down low on the trunks so I began wiring the rooted cuttings as I potted them on. Much better bends down low as the wire can be applied right from the roots and make bends closer to the base.
Still a couple of drawbacks. Cuttings can take a year or more to root sometimes and if I bend a little too far trunk snaps and I've lost that one which is a waste of a year or more growing and resources needed to strike cuttings.
Then I hit on this latest idea. Wire and bend long shoots on the stock plants. They grow faster with all the roots and energy from the large parent plant. Twisted shoots thicken to 1 cm in a year or 2. If I'm a bit careless while bending nothing but a bit of wire and a few minutes lost and there's plenty more shoots waiting. I can even wire and bend again after a year if I want more bends or longer trunk.
Now when I'm happy with the shape and size I can layer it off the parent in just a few weeks.

Layers on the stock tree
CH300526.JPG
A week after setting the layers in early spring I needed to prune some long branches back. One of those branches also had a layer at the tip - Bugger!
Knowing that callus forms quick on a layer and that callus is the first step of root formation - layers or cuttings - I decided to move the layer to the cutting bed even though it had no roots at all. Chances were good of keeping it alive and getting a result.
A few weeks later roots have formed and I moved it outdoors to the nursery bench. A couple of weeks later roots showing at the base of the pot so time to pot up.
CH300522.JPGCH300523.JPGCH300524.JPGCH300525.JPG

The small pots turned out to be a small problem as they are hard to keep watered through hot summer so I've elected to remove them at the first sign of roots then transfer to the cutting bed with auto misting for a couple of weeks. It is amazing how quick roots can grow when the plant needs to.

This pic just 10 days after removing from the parent. Roots already showing.
CH300527.JPG

Pot into a larger pot to maintain growth and make watering easier.
CH300528.JPG
 
Mid summer down here and I'm just potting up some shimpaku layers.

I started growing twisted junipers after talking to a friend who had worked in Japanese bonsai nurseries. Rather than growing straight, uninteresting trunks they were developing strongly bent and twisted trunks in lieu of being able to collect mountain stock.

Initially I was striking small cuttings then waiting a couple of years for them to grow before wiring and twisting. That approach had a number of drawbacks.
Then I discovered I could strike long thin cuttings and bypass the first growing bit. Saves a couple of years but I was still potting up the straight cuttings and waiting for them to settle into the pots before wiring and bending. Still not satisfied with the bends, especially down low on the trunks so I began wiring the rooted cuttings as I potted them on. Much better bends down low as the wire can be applied right from the roots and make bends closer to the base.
Still a couple of drawbacks. Cuttings can take a year or more to root sometimes and if I bend a little too far trunk snaps and I've lost that one which is a waste of a year or more growing and resources needed to strike cuttings.
Then I hit on this latest idea. Wire and bend long shoots on the stock plants. They grow faster with all the roots and energy from the large parent plant. Twisted shoots thicken to 1 cm in a year or 2. If I'm a bit careless while bending nothing but a bit of wire and a few minutes lost and there's plenty more shoots waiting. I can even wire and bend again after a year if I want more bends or longer trunk.
Now when I'm happy with the shape and size I can layer it off the parent in just a few weeks.

Layers on the stock tree
View attachment 466725
A week after setting the layers in early spring I needed to prune some long branches back. One of those branches also had a layer at the tip - Bugger!
Knowing that callus forms quick on a layer and that callus is the first step of root formation - layers or cuttings - I decided to move the layer to the cutting bed even though it had no roots at all. Chances were good of keeping it alive and getting a result.
A few weeks later roots have formed and I moved it outdoors to the nursery bench. A couple of weeks later roots showing at the base of the pot so time to pot up.
View attachment 466721View attachment 466722View attachment 466723View attachment 466724

The small pots turned out to be a small problem as they are hard to keep watered through hot summer so I've elected to remove them at the first sign of roots then transfer to the cutting bed with auto misting for a couple of weeks. It is amazing how quick roots can grow when the plant needs to.

This pic just 10 days after removing from the parent. Roots already showing.
View attachment 466726

Pot into a larger pot to maintain growth and make watering easier.
View attachment 466727
Thanks for the info . Just the start of the worst of winter here . Very timely post for me . Shinnaku is difficult to source here . Having Found 2 1 gallon potted nursery stock . To look art c last spring to repot . I have been thinking about there use starting this spring . . So far they are just 3 or 4 leggy shoots in each pot . But I like your idea and appreciate the info about pitfalls . Thank you . Very happy to see any more updates
 
Mid summer down here and I'm just potting up some shimpaku layers.

I started growing twisted junipers after talking to a friend who had worked in Japanese bonsai nurseries. Rather than growing straight, uninteresting trunks they were developing strongly bent and twisted trunks in lieu of being able to collect mountain stock.

Initially I was striking small cuttings then waiting a couple of years for them to grow before wiring and twisting. That approach had a number of drawbacks.
Then I discovered I could strike long thin cuttings and bypass the first growing bit. Saves a couple of years but I was still potting up the straight cuttings and waiting for them to settle into the pots before wiring and bending. Still not satisfied with the bends, especially down low on the trunks so I began wiring the rooted cuttings as I potted them on. Much better bends down low as the wire can be applied right from the roots and make bends closer to the base.
Still a couple of drawbacks. Cuttings can take a year or more to root sometimes and if I bend a little too far trunk snaps and I've lost that one which is a waste of a year or more growing and resources needed to strike cuttings.
Then I hit on this latest idea. Wire and bend long shoots on the stock plants. They grow faster with all the roots and energy from the large parent plant. Twisted shoots thicken to 1 cm in a year or 2. If I'm a bit careless while bending nothing but a bit of wire and a few minutes lost and there's plenty more shoots waiting. I can even wire and bend again after a year if I want more bends or longer trunk.
Now when I'm happy with the shape and size I can layer it off the parent in just a few weeks.

Layers on the stock tree
View attachment 466725
A week after setting the layers in early spring I needed to prune some long branches back. One of those branches also had a layer at the tip - Bugger!
Knowing that callus forms quick on a layer and that callus is the first step of root formation - layers or cuttings - I decided to move the layer to the cutting bed even though it had no roots at all. Chances were good of keeping it alive and getting a result.
A few weeks later roots have formed and I moved it outdoors to the nursery bench. A couple of weeks later roots showing at the base of the pot so time to pot up.
View attachment 466721View attachment 466722View attachment 466723View attachment 466724

The small pots turned out to be a small problem as they are hard to keep watered through hot summer so I've elected to remove them at the first sign of roots then transfer to the cutting bed with auto misting for a couple of weeks. It is amazing how quick roots can grow when the plant needs to.

This pic just 10 days after removing from the parent. Roots already showing.
View attachment 466726

Pot into a larger pot to maintain growth and make watering easier.
View attachment 466727
Thanks for sharing. It's cool to see the different methods and your experiences.
A couple months ago I tightly wired up some top growth on a shimpaku with intentions of layering off too. I was trying to think of how else to get super low and tight bends that would normally kill my whip cuttings. When I waited for the health of the whip cuttings to wire, they were too large to get the extreme bends.
 
Mid summer down here and I'm just potting up some shimpaku layers.

I started growing twisted junipers after talking to a friend who had worked in Japanese bonsai nurseries. Rather than growing straight, uninteresting trunks they were developing strongly bent and twisted trunks in lieu of being able to collect mountain stock.

Initially I was striking small cuttings then waiting a couple of years for them to grow before wiring and twisting. That approach had a number of drawbacks.
Then I discovered I could strike long thin cuttings and bypass the first growing bit. Saves a couple of years but I was still potting up the straight cuttings and waiting for them to settle into the pots before wiring and bending. Still not satisfied with the bends, especially down low on the trunks so I began wiring the rooted cuttings as I potted them on. Much better bends down low as the wire can be applied right from the roots and make bends closer to the base.
Still a couple of drawbacks. Cuttings can take a year or more to root sometimes and if I bend a little too far trunk snaps and I've lost that one which is a waste of a year or more growing and resources needed to strike cuttings.
Then I hit on this latest idea. Wire and bend long shoots on the stock plants. They grow faster with all the roots and energy from the large parent plant. Twisted shoots thicken to 1 cm in a year or 2. If I'm a bit careless while bending nothing but a bit of wire and a few minutes lost and there's plenty more shoots waiting. I can even wire and bend again after a year if I want more bends or longer trunk.
Now when I'm happy with the shape and size I can layer it off the parent in just a few weeks.

Layers on the stock tree
View attachment 466725
A week after setting the layers in early spring I needed to prune some long branches back. One of those branches also had a layer at the tip - Bugger!
Knowing that callus forms quick on a layer and that callus is the first step of root formation - layers or cuttings - I decided to move the layer to the cutting bed even though it had no roots at all. Chances were good of keeping it alive and getting a result.
A few weeks later roots have formed and I moved it outdoors to the nursery bench. A couple of weeks later roots showing at the base of the pot so time to pot up.
View attachment 466721View attachment 466722View attachment 466723View attachment 466724

The small pots turned out to be a small problem as they are hard to keep watered through hot summer so I've elected to remove them at the first sign of roots then transfer to the cutting bed with auto misting for a couple of weeks. It is amazing how quick roots can grow when the plant needs to.

This pic just 10 days after removing from the parent. Roots already showing.
View attachment 466726

Pot into a larger pot to maintain growth and make watering easier.
View attachment 466727
Can you shed some light on your layering technique? Is that an organic medium you're using in the air layer pot? How often do you water the layer? I'm curious why you prefer this method over the more common sphagnum moss/plastic wrap situation.

Thanks!
 
Can you shed some light on your layering technique? Is that an organic medium you're using in the air layer pot? How often do you water the layer? I'm curious why you prefer this method over the more common sphagnum moss/plastic wrap situation.
Open pot is an alternative to plastic bag. Advantage is there is better air movement and less possibility of waterlogging.
It's not so much that I prefer open pot layers. More about using appropriate methods for different situations. Where regular watering is not appropriate plastic wrap is preferred. Where regular watering is available open pot seems to be better. In the nursery where overhead watering comes on twice a day plastic wrap layers tend to fill with water and drown.
Mix is my normal bonsai potting soil.
These get watered every day and sometimes twice a day now that it is hotter. The bonsai are getting twice daily water now. These pots are small so evaporate quicker but no roots to take out extra water so can usually last 24 hours.

I was trying to think of how else to get super low and tight bends that would normally kill my whip cuttings. When I waited for the health of the whip cuttings to wire, they were too large to get the extreme bends.
Cuttings will take a surprising amount of trauma and still survive. I get more than 90% survival after wiring and bending at potting up - except for the stems that snap while bending. definitely need to bend before the stem hardens.
P1210223.JPG

Just found some older photos showing some variations.
Trunks don't have to be out the top of the pot.
IMGP9093.JPG

2 for the price of 1
IMGP9095.JPG
 
Found roots showing on another pot of shimpaku cuttings so took the opportunity to take some more photos to show my methods in case anyone is interested.

Cuttings
CH020533.JPG
Roots showing at base of pot
CH020534.JPG

14 out of 20 cuttings had roots so far.
Some had good strong roots
CH020535.JPG
A few had very small roots but should be enough so they were also potted up
CH020536.JPG

2 of the cuttings are long stems so can be wired and twisted before potting up
CH020537.JPGCH020538.JPG
CH020539.JPGCH020540.JPG
Wiring bare root rooted cuttings is much easier than stems in pots. I can wire right down to the roots and can bend much closer to roots.

These were done a few weeks ago and appear to be doing well.
CH020541.JPG
 
Hahaha, we really need to meet up one day. Sounds like our minds think very much alike when it comes to bonsai! When I make it back to my beloved Australia I will come and look you up!

A 1 year video in the making for my channel:

1672655154054.png

1672655274360.png


And of course one of the all-time favourites,
 
My teacher actually advocates wiring and twisting the heck out the the long thin whips before rooting them.
So cut from parent plant, strip foliage from the bottom 2" or so and wire/twist/shape then rooting hormone if so desired and plant.
If you bury part of the bent/curved section it will likely result in very low movement.
Only tried it once and about half of them rooted just fine.
 
Back
Top Bottom