Trunk Chop 101?

[sorce]

I find that the natural angle of "dieback" is almost always best to trim back to after a straight cut, I've never seen a angle cut first look good later.

There is further to this....

While I firmly believe "trees don't care to be beautiful", (this is getting larger than I thought it would be) they are efficient and opportunistic, to a level of intelligence that I don't think we fully understand.

In this realm of the "natural dieback" pattern, I can't recall ever seeing a tree in nature not look good at what would be a natural "chop" or heavy prune.
I believe it has to do with the fact that in seeking the path of least resistance due to their efficiency, they are actually programmed to heal to what we would call "aesthetically pleasing" in bonsai.
I question if this does not even include purposefully rotting sections to allow faster regrowth over, by trees in nature.

They at least don't care to have a hole in a place, so long as there is great tissue surrounding it, to take full advantage of the easiest real estate to occupy to allow for transfer of water and nutrients through the trunk.

I believe we spend to much time worrying about this subject, because we seek this instant gratification an angled cut gives you.

It is more appropriate to make a straight cut, then work with the trees want to utilize the path of least resistance, and trim back your stub to this point, as best aesthetically as possible.

Let me show you some pics.

Sorce

 

[River's Edge]

That is a seriously important piece of info you shared. Much thanks.

River's Edge, thanks for the recommendation. Any further reading recommendations? I've been going through Peter Adam's book on Japanese Maples and learned a good deal.

Attached are 2 pics of one of my "Acer HomeDepotnium" trees (purchased at a big box store with similar name). It was the first I purchased and the trunk is almost 2" in diameter. I didn't properly deal with his roots when planted and will comb them out and maybe cut the tap root etc. (right before spring????). There's some nebari on opposite sides that has been covered a bit by wind, watering. This will be my first ever trunk chop.

I've purchased some more of these trees this season and got them into larger pots. At $15 for no less than 1" caliper and an array of foliage among the plain vanilla green JMs, I simply couldn't find better trees to learn on. Also keeps my bonsai nursery-bought trees safer from my impetuous nature (a guy's gotta cut something!!!).

Personally I have not found better resources than Peter Adams and Andrea Merigiolli for specific techniques pertaining to maples. Could be lots of other sources out there I am not aware of! The Meriggiolli book is outstanding for detailed techniques developing a variety of styles. The principles underlying the numerous techniques and specific timing of application have broad transfer to developing deciduous trees in general. If I could only have one book pertaining to deciduous in my library it is the one I would choose.
After that the focus could turn to design and aesthetics of development so the techniques can be used for the best results!

For your first time, I would suggest keeping it simple, take your time and observe how the tree responds.Take Chapter two in the Adams book, choose one of the development methods he suggests and follow his guidelines. NOTE: He also like Meriggiolli outlines methods using straight or slant cuts depending on style desired.
If and when you wish to get creative and start developing a variety of styles with more individual character than become familiar with the advanced techniques and processes outlined by Meriggiolli.

 

[sorce]

This is a real life version of that earlier illustration, this is my ficus.


That one will be layered there for a base so the transition didn't matter. That was a straight cut that never got treated. The growth allowed inside the curve ruined it too. It would have been quite easy to make this a nice transition, but more importantly, even now, or later after there is even more healing, I could go back and perform a small operation to make the outline pleasing again, without much risk to design.


This one was the next up. This was only a couple degrees out of straight across and was never treated/recut either.


It's transition is almost perfect and was only ruined by that small growth that shouldn't have been allowed.
(I had a neglectful year.)

I know for sure that first one was chopped to a small twig, you see how it had to build so much energy before beginning to heal.
That allows for less control over where the new tissue grows.
Cutting to a branch nearer desired thickness allows you better control of future growth.

Visualize the size of the heartwood, here's a visual.


If the white is the heartwood and the red is the tissue you have to grow in order to achieve the desired next segment thickness, the idea is to minimize the red "differential/tolerance/variable" in order to better control where it grows.

Not only that but....
If you consider this simpler birthday cake view...


If your yellow is future taper and the red is what you're risking dying back, you're on this clock where every day and winter it's left exposed is a design risk. One you can't go back on.



Better to have it almost done first, and not be afraid to go back after 4 years of healing to redress the perfect outline, that won't be perfect for another 4 years.

But hey...time is pretend.

Sorce

 

[dbonsaiw]

I will need to process this. Not sure I get it all, but will review before following up