Trident Maple Repot

[misfit11]

@leatherback @sorce I think I definitely jumped the gun in putting into a smaller pot I like the look of the tree in that size pot so maybe it’s aloud me to see the potential for myself which I couldn’t see in the plastic pot I bought it in.

With temperatures at -3 and getting colder this week should I wait until this has passed to repot it and carry out the work? I’ve got a larger pond basket that I could use maybe I could place a flat piece of wood under the root base to try and help the nebari on it’s way even more.

The base of the nebari isn’t very flat so I’d have to still have soil in the void between the wood and centre of the base of the tree.

I agree. It will develop much quicker in a larger pot. Small pots like this really slow down their development. That great for later on down the road when you want fine ramification but you're not there yet. I think you could wait until the cold temperatures pass and then move it into the basket. It doesn't look like the buds have begun to swell anyway.

 

[misfit11]

I've noticed Tridents have this tendency to throw out multiple branches from one spot. You really need to stay on top of them to fight this.

 

[sorce]

jumped the gun

Some of the guns we jump shoot BB's....
Some of them are mounted on tanks.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

I've noticed Tridents have this tendency to throw out multiple branches from one spot. You really need to stay on top of them to fight this.

Further....

I think people misread "health" because of this, then the time comes to cut em off but they can't afford the loss of energy and worse things happen.

Also this....

Keeping problem branches that are currently filling an aesthetic space, and looking at them as necessary, when proper branching from proper next segments or places will come to fill that space in time.

Faster Further Future Vision.

We look at what is NOW too much. We should always look with one past eye, one current eye, and one future eye.

This aesthetic problem becomes the same as the hort one then....
By the time you realize these poor branches have to go, you already cut off the good shit that was there to replace it.

Better to think and be wrong...
Than act and be wrong.

Sorce

 

[BarkLeafTrees]

I agree. It will develop much quicker in a larger pot. Small pots like this really slow down their development. That great for later on down the road when you want fine ramification but you're not there yet. I think you could wait until the cold temperatures pass and then move it into the basket. It doesn't look like the buds have begun to swell anyway.

It looks like the leaves are about to open to me. I think I’m going to leave it until the weekend and cut the old wounds seal them, trim out any clusters of branches and repot into a basket. I will post updates when it’s completed.

 

[Don Blackmond]

It looks like the leaves are about to open to me. I think I’m going to leave it until the weekend and cut the old wounds seal them, trim out any clusters of branches and repot into a basket. I will post updates when it’s completed.

Based on that picture, you have plenty of time.

 

[misfit11]

Based on that picture, you have plenty of time.

Agreed. I do see some bud break in the picture but your tree isn't actively pushing growth. You have time.

 

[BarkLeafTrees]

I’ve cut back the wounds and clusters of branches some of the branches you see are for the back of the tree and I’ve also left some small shoots in places.

I’ve posted both before and after photos let me know what you guys think.

 

[ConorDash]

Definitely a good thing to reduce, as Misfit says. There were many places where that was a problem and better to get that sorted asap.
Cool, its a bit better setup now.
Depends on your plan but could still apply some wire to set the branches up with some movement, even if you aren't going to use most of the branch in future, I still like to wire to look more like a tree itll become in future + practice wiring.
Unsure of best times, probably as Don says, yesterday was the best time but you should do some carving or just reduce with the knob cutters, the remnants of the grown out original trunk sections that were chopped. So it helps the future trunk line become more smooth.
Remember not to cut back to where you want the trunk line to end at, cut back to where the resultant callus tissue will go to.. if that makes sense..

 

[BarkLeafTrees]

Definitely a good thing to reduce, as Misfit says. There were many places where that was a problem and better to get that sorted asap.
Cool, its a bit better setup now.
Depends on your plan but could still apply some wire to set the branches up with some movement, even if you aren't going to use most of the branch in future, I still like to wire to look more like a tree itll become in future + practice wiring.
Unsure of best times, probably as Don says, yesterday was the best time but you should do some carving or just reduce with the knob cutters, the remnants of the grown out original trunk sections that were chopped. So it helps the future trunk line become more smooth.
Remember not to cut back to where you want the trunk line to end at, cut back to where the resultant callus tissue will go to.. if that makes sense..

Both the stumps from the old chops have a big circular dead wood part, if I hollow so it’s set back will the resulting callus heal flush or will it still swell.

 

[ConorDash]

All callus and wounds will swell, its normal. Thats why I say, cut back baring in mind that it needs to still swell, as the callus rolls in. SO you need to think what the tree will look like in 5 years, not in 1 day after you cut.
And if kept in that size pot and worked on, that bigger trunk bit to remove, will probably never heal fully. Although saying that, it is a Trident which are known for their vigour. I have no experience with them, I can't imagine it would heal over, if worked and kept in that pot but maybe someone will correct me. Also, our weather is not the strongest.. someone in California for example, MUCH EASIER to do ..... most things, with Bonsai. And I don't care who wants to argue with me about it


Thats why people carve, to make it look better. Or keep as a wound. Whatever you like really, there is no right or wrong answer.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Both the stumps from the old chops have a big circular dead wood part, if I hollow so it’s set back will the resulting callus heal flush or will it still swell.

Yes, a hollow will allow the bark to roll over without major swelling. There may be some swelling, but a concave hollow will help prevent the swelling.

Be sure to get that little lip of wood that might be just against the newly rolling callus, it hard to explain, but that little ridge of wood can slow the rolling over and healing. Taking off a thin edge of the healing bark usually gets the ridge of wood I'm talking about.

Maybe someone else can explain it better.

 

[Don Blackmond]

Both the stumps from the old chops have a big circular dead wood part, if I hollow so it’s set back will the resulting callus heal flush or will it still swell.

Yes, carve out a little layer of the deadwood so that the scar will grow over and look flush and not bulge. Use the gray cut paste along the edge of the fresh wound. If it was my tree, I would cut the branches off the leader and let it grow for height so it thickens and helps create better taper; also drawing energy up through the tree will help heal your carved chop transitions.

 

[leatherback]

Be sure to get that little lip of wood that might be just against the newly rolling callus, it hard to explain, but that little ridge of wood can slow the rolling over and healing. Taking off a thin edge of the healing bark usually gets the ridge of wood I'm talking about.

This is extremely important, I have come to realize too.

When you have a sidebranch, the branch collar is fluted; The attachment area is larger than the width of the branch. If you "just" cut out a dimple where the branch was, you leave a little ridge. The bark looks smooth. But under the bark there is a little leftover ridge.

I have often thought: I do not want to create a big wound. So I cut the branch fluch and then nibble out soms wood. But you should make the cut a little wider, to remove that ridge.

Indeed,

Maybe someone else can explain it better.

because I do not think I made it any clearer

 

[BarkLeafTrees]

This afternoon I’m going to hollow out more of the deadwood. I’ve already cut away at the previous swollen callus so there is a ring around each deadwood.

I’m going to plant it into a basket once the snow passes so it’s got room to grow.

When sealing the wounds, should I seal the deadwood part aswell (probably sounds silly) to stop it rotting away? Or is it best to leave that part uncovered and just let it rot.

 

[Shibui]

When sealing the wounds, should I seal the deadwood part aswell (probably sounds silly) to stop it rotting away? Or is it best to leave that part uncovered and just let it rot.

I seal the entire cut. Protecting the dead inner wood delays rotting. If the wood rots too much the new cambium can't grow over the hole.

 

[BarkLeafTrees]

Just a little update. About a week and a half between the first and last photo.

 

[BarkLeafTrees]

More updates this trident has grown so strong this year with me cutting it back at the start of June and it putting on a crazy amount of growth between then and now.

April 2021


Start of June 2021 - before and after cutback


Today

 

[BarkLeafTrees]

Repotting has come around again for this trident maple. Really like how it’s grown in the pond basket endless fine roots now I’m starting to think the back is now the front based on how the nebari is developing. What do you guys think?

Current front - less pleasing nebari but no trunk scars


Current back - better nebari but old chop scars visible

 

[leatherback]

I would certainly consider your current back as front. Not only because of the roots, but also because of the trunk movement, which is mostly towards to,which is what you are after.