Trident Maple Leader

[jimlau]

I'm not sure which leader to choose on this trident maple, A or B.

A has a section that is straight with no taper (marked below). B has a bit of taper up from the bottom section.




Here's what it may look like with A as the leader.




Here's what it may look like with B as the leader.

 

[Stan Kengai]

Neither! Chop it low, just above the bottom of the watering can in your second picture, and regrow from there.

 

[jimlau]

Neither! Chop it low, just above the bottom of the watering can in your second picture, and regrow from there.

I'm in Zone 6 (Pennsylvania) - is it too late in the year to do a total chop?

Thanks.

 

[Tieball]

I'm in Zone 6 (Pennsylvania) - is it too late in the year to do a total chop?

Thanks.

I should let the pros answer this one...But...I'd wait until spring 2014 myself. It just could be to late for the regrowth and hardening off of the new growth yet in 2013. Waiting until spring would keep all that energy in the roots and you'd have a full growing season in front of you. However...I could be wrong.

 

[Stan Kengai]

The best time to chop a maple is in the fall after leaf drop. Seal the wound, and try to keep it from freezing over the winter. The problem with chopping in the spring is that maples bleed profusely when the sap is flowing, which can weaken the plant. If you have access to a fast drying wound sealant, like Lac-basalm (sp?), you can do a little root work, then chop and seal quickly as the buds are opening in the spring.

Until then, don't touch the plant. Just let it gain as much strength as it can before you chop.

 

[jimlau]

The best time to chop a maple is in the fall after leaf drop. Seal the wound, and try to keep it from freezing over the winter.

I thought tridents could handle the winter freeze (zone 6). My plan was to plant it in the pot in the ground, and mulch it. So it would freeze. Is that problematic?

Thanks.

 

[Dav4]

I thought tridents could handle the winter freeze (zone 6). My plan was to plant it in the pot in the ground, and mulch it. So it would freeze. Is that problematic?

Thanks.

Tridents are hardy in usda zone 6. The issue is that a recently chopped maple may experience significant die back during the winter if it doesn't receive more then the usual protection, essentially needing to keep it frost free. If you've not over wintered a trident before, I'd personally hold of on the chop until next spring, then do it along with some root work. There will be some bleeding, but it will be minimal, and the tree will be better with the rootwork having been done.

 

[Beng]

Keep B if it's between the two.

 

[RichKid]

Dav,
what type of "more than normal" protection would you recommend? I was thinking of maybe chopping a japanese maple this fall but perhaps I should wait till the spring.

 

[Dav4]

Dav,
what type of "more than normal" protection would you recommend? I was thinking of maybe chopping a japanese maple this fall but perhaps I should wait till the spring.

Frost free...keeping the temps above freezing. Unfortunately, when doing this, you run the risk of early bud break...not good in the Northeast when you can have springtime frosts well into April or even May.

 

[Poink88]

I'd air layer the top around 2/3 up from base to the first branch...then after separation, chop the remaining at about half way from base to the first branch.

 

[jimlau]

when would that be best to do? would I also be able to keep the base for another tree (even though the flare/nebari is not very attractive, as is now)?

 

[evmibo]

when would that be best to do? would I also be able to keep the base for another tree (even though the flare/nebari is not very attractive, as is now)?

If you decide to stay with your original idea I'd probably go with B.

if you want to air layer the top portion you should probably wait until spring or early summer when the leafs are hardened/hardening off. This gives them a chance to feed/fill/store new roots with sugars.

the base is the priority here though, and honestly I wouldn't bother with airlayering, in my opinion there isn't much on top that is truly worth saving.

again, as some others have suggested, I would chop the base. I would keep it simple and do it in spring, before buds develop and at the very latest when they're starting to bulge. protect the cut from late frosts (paste, elmer's glue, whatever).