Air Layer Japanese Maple ‘Shindeshojo’ and Trident Maple

[shirleytheviola]

After going down multiple rabbit holes regarding air layering, I decided to bite the bullet and commit to cutting up some trees of my own!

Before applying damp sphagnum moss, I brushed the top of each cut site with Clonex rooting gel (vibrant purple gel). I then wrapped each layer with plastic and secured them (loosely) with zip ties.

I am posting here for post care advice on what I can do to ensure successful air layers in the weeks/months to come. Specifically I am curious about water requirements for the layers and whether or not I could keep them in sunlight. They currently receive a few hours of direct sunlight a day before being shaded out by my house. All critique is welcome

Japanese Maple:


Shindeshojo:


Trident Maple:


Thank you in advance!

 

[Jrmcmich]

All air layers I have done I just left tree in its normal environment not worrying about light related to air layer. I did poke holes in bottom of plastic wrap to allow water to drain. I also had top of air layer loose enough to be able to just water with watering can as needed to keep moist. Otherwise just waiting on roots. Good luck

 

[zita]

honestly, why do you airlayer that piece off the young plant?

 

[Shibui]

There's nothing in the photos for scale but they appear to be very small bags of moss? That will still work but you will need to monitor moisture content more often and remove them with relatively smaller amount of roots.

I've lost air layers from both too much and not enough water.
Early on, before roots appear the moss can become saturated if there's no way for excess water to drain out. I now tie the lower tie a bit looser to allow any excess water to escape.
Drying out usually occurs later in the process when the roots have developed. By that time it is hot and dry (summer) and those new roots are now taking water out of the bag and by that time I've usually stopped checking regularly. The bag can become bone dry in a couple of days. Fortunately yours are on bonsai that you will be checking regularly. As long as you are aware you should be OK
Roots have no problem with light so there's no need to wrap or protect the layers from sun. They should get plenty of protection from the branches above as well as shade from the house.

honestly, why do you airlayer that piece off the young plant?

I find it is only worth layering exceptional material so I often ask the same question but anyone is free to do their own thing.

It appears the Shindeshojo is being layered to remove the graft. Whether that's actually needed is debatable but there's a lot of growers who feel it's the right thing to avoid future problems with bad grafts.
Other than that, maybe just practice?
Maybe those trees are difficult to source in San Diego so layering small material is worth while?

 

[zita]

I find it is only worth layering exceptional material so I often ask the same question but anyone is free to do their own thing.

yes, and while there is a large bandwith whats worth, this tree is unusable. The new tree has 10cm internodes at the nebari, straight as a spaghetti, just like the motherplant

It appears the Shindeshojo is being layered to remove the graft. Whether that's actually needed is debatable but there's a lot of growers who feel it's the right thing to avoid future problems with bad grafts.
Other than that, maybe just practice?

well yes, that would be a reason

Maybe those trees are difficult to source in San Diego so layering small material is worth while?

as per google, there are tons of shops selling mapples.

sorry, not trying to be rude to somebodys pleasure!
It is more a warning of spending lots of time and money and still not getting the results.

It is worth spending 200 dollars to get a pre bonsai with taper right above the nebari.....you skip the first 20 years of frustration and have fun straight away.
much cheaper as well.

 

[shirleytheviola]

honestly, why do you airlayer that piece off the young plant?

I agree that the chosen air layers for the young maple and the trident are quite unremarkable, but I was planning to remove those sections anyways. I figured that instead of just removing these sections, I might as well get some new trees out of it!

The shindeshojo has a horribly ugly graft that is not visible at the angle I took the photos. The unsightly graft is most visible on what otherwise would have been the front of the tree. By removing this graft, I personally feel better about displaying my tree in the way that I feel looks best.

 

[shirleytheviola]

Also just like @Shibui mentioned, the overarching reason for these air layers is just for good practice. In the art of bonsai, I find that it is so easy to become impatient and grow solely for the purpose of cultivating a “finished” product. However, through the sentiments of more experienced bonsai artists like @leatherback, I’ve come to realize that this is an art form with no true end goal.

If it takes 20 years to develop these trees to something “worth” anything, that will be 20 years full of care and love for the trees I have decided to dedicate my energy towards. If I have anything, it is time and a willingness to learn and grow alongside my trees (and I will still appreciate and admire them at every step of the way)

 

[19Mateo83]

Honestly I enjoy air layering smaller trunks on JM. It gives you material that is not too rigid and still flexible while also allowing you to get the nebari off to an early start. My one bit of advice is to ditch the small moss bags and go with a small pot with free draining substrate like the standard 2:1:1 mix or perlite with chopped sphagnum. You can hang the pots with wire and just water them when you water your trees. Here’s what I like to call a micro air layer.