Trident Maple in development

[BobbyLane]

Ive had this tree around 3 months, it has a few decent fronts, the plan is to style it like a natural tree, I think the tree has a powerful base and good nebari, fat little trunk. in time the branch structure will get better and better. in winter ill be able to get in there and start the styling process..

I chose this as the front...

Ive been inspired by this Trident, by Walter Pall, in time i hope to get a similar type of image, basically just a very natural looking image of a tree standing alone in an open field.

A couple weeks ago i covered the surface nebari/roots of some of my trees with chopped up spagnam moss, just to see if i could induce further roots. had a look at the Trident a few days ago and its starting to put out surface roots from each point. im glad to see this as in time this will help to drag out the base.

Two new shoots at the base

The moss will stay for a couple more weeks, before removing and covering up with soil, this will stop the roots growing into the moss.

This tree has been heavily fed with slow release organic and has really taken off now, the canopy is expanding and there are new shoots all over the tree. will update later on...

 

[JudyB]

Nice feet, you've done well with this. I am doing the same thing for roots on a number of my trees. How do you determine when to take the moss off?

 

[BobbyLane]

Hi Judy, thanks...tbh i wasnt expecting to see new roots, i just had a random look under the moss after approx two weeks and got a pleasant surprise

 

[Eric Group]

This is a great little tree! What are the approximate dimensions, and do you mind if I ask where you go it?

 

[klosi]

Very nice looking. Has the full potential to become branchy natural looking tree. Alsowell chosen new front, I like it.
Can I ask, you or anyone else, what is the purpose of getting new roots as you did?
Thanks

 

[MACH5]

Nice tree and great base! Sphagnum moss is a great way to induce surface roots and allow the fine ones that already exist to develop further. I have had good success with it on my Japanese maples. The only drawback is that it is not very aesthetically pleasing at least in my opinion.

Very nice looking. Has the full potential to become branchy natural looking tree. Alsowell chosen new front, I like it.
Can I ask, you or anyone else, what is the purpose of getting new roots as you did?
Thanks

It builds the nebari.

 

[JudyB]

The only drawback is that it is not very aesthetically pleasing at least in my opinion.

Can you elaborate on this statement Mach please?

 

[MACH5]

Well for me it just doesn't look as pleasing and can look even a bit messy. It looks rather light in color and then starts turning greenish when it gets old. Just for the sake of clarity, I am talking about the dried sphagnum moss that is often used for orchids and not the typical green stuff that grows at the base of our bonsai.

 

[JudyB]

AH, I see you are speaking of the moss appearance, I thought you were talking about the appearance of the surface roots created with this method to be unappealing in some way! DOH.

 

[MACH5]

AH, I see you are speaking of the moss appearance, I thought you were talking about the appearance of the surface roots created with this method to be unappealing in some way! DOH.

Oh no no no!

 

[BobbyLane]

This is a great little tree! What are the approximate dimensions, and do you mind if I ask where you go it?

Dimensions approx 11in high, roughly 5in diameter nebari
Got it here http://www.windybankbonsai.co.uk/

Some folks apply the spagnum moss after re potting to help the new roots/nebari establish quicker. as the area becomes humid, this benefits pruned roots. and yes as someone mentioned, it can help to build the nebari and the new roots forming will help to drag the base out.
After a few weeks it kind of serves its purpose and can be removed, it doesnt look very appealing

 

[klosi]

Ok thanks for explanation mach and bobby
So after mossing (?) new roots you cover them with soil and live them to develop, thicken, to widen nebari?

 

[MACH5]

Ok thanks for explanation mach and bobby
So after mossing (?) new roots you cover them with soil and live thme develop, thicken, to widen nebari?

Yes

 

[klosi]

Ok, thanks

 

[Vin]

You've done very well and should be commended. Thanks for posting the progression.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

Very nice. I've been watering one of my quinces twice daily. They spring right up even after wilting, but I decided to use some moss a few days ago. No more wilting.

 

[BobbyLane]

An update on my little Trident after leaf drop. Ive whacked some wire on now that i was able to see the structure. the image needs refining and tidy up over time, but this is the first wiring.
There were some callused over wounds on the tree that ive hollowed out to make Uro, i like seeing these kind of holes on old deciduous tree, i think they add character as long as not over done..

 

[markyscott]

Next year, consider wiring out the branches in the spring and summer. You can get much more natural movement before the fine branching lignifies. I wired out my tridents 3-4 times this year. I remove the last wire and do development pruning in the winter.

Advantage is that you can put a lot more movement in green branches and wiring several growths will result in more rapid development.

Disadvantage is that it's a bit harder to wire with the tree in leaf. But you can be cutting back now, not wiring out. You also have to be very careful about the wire cutting in. Sometimes only takes a couple of weeks.

Fall is only a couple of months away now. I'll try to post an example then.

Cool tree

Scott

 

[BobbyLane]

Points noted! do show yours when you get a chance, cheers mate..

 

[markyscott]

Points noted! do show yours when you get a chance, cheers mate..

Here's a link to one of my trident threads. I wired it out twice more after the last update. I'll update it soon.

http://www.bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/an-unusual-trident.16075/page-3

I work development on pretty much all broadleaf trees the same.

1. Let grow
2. Wire and select branches while shoots are green
3. Remove old leaves on new shoots, but leave the new leaves and growing tips on branches you want to thicken
   • Occasionally, I go further and partially defoliate when I want to strengthen or weaken an area on an otherwise healthy tree. But I never completely defoliate a tree in development.
4. Remove wire as it begins to cut in
5. Repeat 1-5 as many times as you can over the summer
6. In fall, remove any remaining wire and cut back
7. In early spring, repot

Scott