AJL
Chumono
Sorry I dont know why my message is split above and below the photos!
The odd species for bonsai thread
- Thread starter leatherback
- Start date
Woocash
Omono
Fuschia were one of the plants that I used to want to bonsai years ago and now I’ve gotten into the hobby I had completely forgotten about them. So, thanks for the reminder. They remind me of old lady’s gardens, but much like the metaphor, I do love ‘em!
Crazy Diamond
Omono
Crassula sarcocaulis
Thanks!
AJL
Chumono
how old is this plant? purely by coincidence Ive been looking for a source for this here in UK - not many nurseries grow it! Any advice on how to grow it to this size?Crassula sarcocaulis
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Crazy Diamond
Omono
Phytolacca dioica Ombú, native from Argentina
BunjaeKorea
Omono
These are common as bonsai in Korea and make nice trees
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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Bursera fagaroides - my contribution to the unusual species for bonsai list. This species is one of the sources of copal resins. The sap has a wonderful fragrance, cousin to Frankincense and Myrrh. Native to the Sonora desert of Mexico and just barely into Sonora desert of Arizona. @AZbonsai - this one should thrive in your garden, as a number of other Bursera species.
All bursera are Pachycauls, meaning they have a spongy water storage layer beneath the bark that swells and shrinks with water availability. As bonsai - pachycauls will always have zones of reverse taper due to the presence of the spongy layer. If you stop watering 3 months before you plan to exhibit, the swelling will be minimal and the "judgemental" won't notice the reverse taper. (I'm joking about bonsai judges, I'm not joking about their being able to handle extreme drought). I keep mine bone dry for most of my winter, I dry them out when I bring them in, usually October. They won't get watered until February. Then water once a week until they go outside in spring in full sun. They can be kept growing actively if watered then allowed to go from moist to dry, then continue dry one or two additional days, then watered again. For me once a week indoors, or once every 4 or 5 days in full sun outdoors. But my summers are cool. Point is, wet to damp to dry, keep dry an additional day, then water. So for me they never get daily watering. They root from cuttings. bud back moderately well from old wood. Trunk chops work, but takes a fair number of years for the chop scar to smooth out and heal over. At least with small window sill size specimens. Brown pot is Shohin, the green pot has one branch that is a touch over `1 inches, and today lives in Portales, New Mexico, as my niece absconded with it.
All bursera are Pachycauls, meaning they have a spongy water storage layer beneath the bark that swells and shrinks with water availability. As bonsai - pachycauls will always have zones of reverse taper due to the presence of the spongy layer. If you stop watering 3 months before you plan to exhibit, the swelling will be minimal and the "judgemental" won't notice the reverse taper. (I'm joking about bonsai judges, I'm not joking about their being able to handle extreme drought). I keep mine bone dry for most of my winter, I dry them out when I bring them in, usually October. They won't get watered until February. Then water once a week until they go outside in spring in full sun. They can be kept growing actively if watered then allowed to go from moist to dry, then continue dry one or two additional days, then watered again. For me once a week indoors, or once every 4 or 5 days in full sun outdoors. But my summers are cool. Point is, wet to damp to dry, keep dry an additional day, then water. So for me they never get daily watering. They root from cuttings. bud back moderately well from old wood. Trunk chops work, but takes a fair number of years for the chop scar to smooth out and heal over. At least with small window sill size specimens. Brown pot is Shohin, the green pot has one branch that is a touch over `1 inches, and today lives in Portales, New Mexico, as my niece absconded with it.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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By the way, the brown pot is deceptive as to its age. I've had it for over 30 years, picked it up in the early 1980's. The green pot is a cutting from the original, and is "only" 15 or 20 years old. But in the north, kept as a windowsill succulent, they don't grow much. In the ground in Arizona or the desert southwest, it can get to 10 to 12 feet tall (3 to 4 meters).
I thought everyone has a bursera!
I have a Bursera microphylla. It is in the frankensense family. It has a very distinct odor when trimmed. I think it smells like fresh rain. They also call it elephant tree around here. By the sound of your watering regime I am overwatering (which is not unusual for me!) I bought my bursera at the Desert Botanical Garden sale. I have repotted it and trimmed it down. Any suggestions on increasing the amount of foliage would be appreciated!
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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@AZbonsai - I'm closer to Milwaukee than Chicago - your tree looks healthy, don't change what you do based on my watering schedule. In the northern tier of States and Canada, our summers never get anywhere as hot as the home habitat for bursera. My dry regime avoids rots which would be a problem in cool wet weather. In AZ, especially summertime AZ heat, your watering is probably just fine.
Bursera have chlorophyll in the a thin layer under the translucent papery bark. The twigs and trunks photosynthesize even when leafless. They normally go most of the year with very few leaves.
I found that when I prune Bursera, in order to get back budding, prune all the growing terminals of all the branches. You will then get a better flush of back buds. If you prune back a single branch, leaving others untouched, the branch might not bud back at all. I only prune during active growth, which for me is only a few months in summer. The rest of the year they don't grow much. I'm in too cool a climate for them.
Bursera have chlorophyll in the a thin layer under the translucent papery bark. The twigs and trunks photosynthesize even when leafless. They normally go most of the year with very few leaves.
I found that when I prune Bursera, in order to get back budding, prune all the growing terminals of all the branches. You will then get a better flush of back buds. If you prune back a single branch, leaving others untouched, the branch might not bud back at all. I only prune during active growth, which for me is only a few months in summer. The rest of the year they don't grow much. I'm in too cool a climate for them.
Great information thanks for helping me along. Appreciate it!
Eckhoffw
Masterpiece
Fun thread!
I’ve had this kalanchoe for a few years now
Been enjoying just pinching off the larger leaves + a little pruning.
lots of hairy roots trying to shoot out of the undersides of branches.
Does anyone know if there is a way to help promote the Ariel roots? They seem to sprout out then stop and die off.
fun times!
I’ve had this kalanchoe for a few years now
Been enjoying just pinching off the larger leaves + a little pruning.
lots of hairy roots trying to shoot out of the undersides of branches.
Does anyone know if there is a way to help promote the Ariel roots? They seem to sprout out then stop and die off.
fun times!
Crazy Diamond
Omono
Fun thread!
I’ve had this kalanchoe for a few years now
Been enjoying just pinching off the larger leaves + a little pruning.
lots of hairy roots trying to shoot out of the undersides of branches.
Does anyone know if there is a way to help promote the Ariel roots? They seem to sprout out then stop and die off.
fun times!
Its a Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, a succulent plant that dont make aerial roots like ficus so little chances to have aerial roots reaching to the substrate
Eckhoffw
Masterpiece
Ahhh. Thanks. Yeah after thinking about it that make sense. I guess I’ve seen the same hairs at times on jade.
AJL
Chumono
Hi Leatherback That would be great I would like to go Noelanders along with some others from my Bonsai society- It partly depends what happens with Brexit!!
If not might it be possible to send me cuttings by mail?! I could send you hardy Fuchsia cuttings in return!?
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Was trying to get this done in a bo-cost scenario. Of course, if you do not make it yourself, there will be lots of other UK people at noelanders. Let me know if you an wait till then.
