Styling Advice for European Beech, Please

[M. Frary]

(you don’t either).

(you don’t either)

I never disagree with compliments.
It sucks that the tree died after it left your hands.
I think maybe the beech trees are more for people that have patience to spare.
Now I guess I'm going to have to try collecting one and put myself to the test.

 

[Giga]

Beech are one of the most particular deciduious trees and I love the species. I have 7 of them and I don't think I would ever thread graft a beach. You really need to know what your doing with them. All mine all collected material and timeing is everything. I would highlight the weird long branch as the main feture of this tree and the dead wood. At least that's what I would do.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I never disagree with compliments.
It sucks that the tree died after it left your hands.
I think maybe the beech trees are more for people that have patience to spare.
Now I guess I'm going to have to try collecting one and put myself to the test.

I’ll tell you this, Mike, I’m also trying Beech again, but I bought small seedlings and I’m going to grow them in a Bonsai pot carefully over the next 20 years, Valavanis-style, God willing.

 

[Giga]

I’ll tell you this, Mike, I’m also trying Beech again, but I bought small seedlings and I’m going to grow them in a Bonsai pot carefully over the next 20 years, Valavanis-style, God willing.

Japanese or European?

 

[Paulpash]

I’ll tell you this, Mike, I’m also trying Beech again, but I bought small seedlings and I’m going to grow them in a Bonsai pot carefully over the next 20 years, Valavanis-style, God willing.

Me too - mine is getting planted in an oversized training pot and it's going to have its own plaque on my benches - "Reserved for F. Crenata".

I have had a go at ground development of Japanese Beech and it has probably been my most challenging tree to get from ground to pot, even more so than pines and cedars. Crawling around the tree on your hands and knees to spot viable buds before pruning isn't high on my bonsai enjoyment list. I regard myself as an experienced grower - everything I grow myself from raw stock and I've been doing it over 20 years now. The tree is OK but it won't win any awards soon .

There is virtually nothing on the net if you search for thread grafting and beech. Even an experienced pro like Michael Hagedorn has failed thread grafts, approach being his only successes, albeit in his own words pretty unsightly :

"It’s really a challenge! I’ve tried both approach grafts and thread grafts and the approaches finally take but they make a rather ugly graft. So…I’m not too happy yet with my grafting on beeches. It works, but it does take a while. Definitely push your tree when grafting, for the stock cambium in particular needs encouragement."

Taken from https://crataegus.com/2016/11/22/part-ii-beech-design-puzzle/
Scroll to the comments section below the article.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

Great advice Marie. I'll get one on the go and post it. Worth a try, just doesn't make sense that this wouldn't work with their healing and vigorous growth after pollarding and the like. I wonder why there is little success?

 

[M. Frary]

I’ll tell you this, Mike, I’m also trying Beech again, but I bought small seedlings and I’m going to grow them in a Bonsai pot carefully over the next 20 years, Valavanis-style, God willing.

Sounds like that might be the better option?

 

[Paulpash]

Great advice Marie. I'll get one on the go and post it. Worth a try, just doesn't make sense that this wouldn't work with their healing and vigorous growth after pollarding and the like. I wonder why there is little success?

I don't think beech are vigorous in a bonsai pot / containerised growing. The fusion of beech branches you see in nature are a combination of maybe a decade or more growing into each other with an extensive foliage mass plus the strength of a huge root system in the ground. I think this is the main reason - they simply don't thicken quickly enough for the thread graft to take with often a single, mediocre push per year. Just think how many leaves could form beyond the exit hole of your graft from a single push? I'd love to be proved wrong though...

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Me too... Must try sometime.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

I don't think beech are vigorous in a bonsai pot / containerised growing. The fusion of beech branches you see in nature are a combination of maybe a decade or more growing into each other with an extensive foliage mass plus the strength of a huge root system in the ground. I think this is the main reason - they simply don't thicken quickly enough for the thread graft to take with often a single, mediocre push per year. Just think how many leaves could form beyond the exit hole of your graft from a single push? I'd love to be proved wrong though...

It is interesting. The Irish have said their secret to success is putting them in the ground every so often. Have these variables noted and have started the experimental work. Completed the grafts yesterday. One beech and one hornbeam. Smallest possible orifice, tight wedges, fast and good sealer, percievably strong branches, many buds before and after entry for thickening. Will do the writeup soon and post it. Keep it updated for everyone. Will be very isolated case and not at all scientifically representitive but of interest no doubt.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

Me too... Must try sometime.

Good plan I will reference you, if you have stock, worth a shot

 

[Aiki_Joker]

The beech that I thread grafted early this year is going dormant soon. I will update that post with pictures and analysis including a comparison between the beech and the Hornbeam. After a season of growth the results are very different!

 

[Krone]

I only found the proper pruning technique for beech last year...

Can you please elaborate on that?

 

[Tieball]

Since the shari (an uro arises from a lost/pruned branch, IIRC) is this tree's main feature, I like this view, in your 3 pic

I like the branch in this pic coming down right, then left, drawing attention to the shari. It also tapers nicely as it comes down and goes back, giving the perception of depth. Now all you need to do is to make a scalene triangle of branches/foliage on top to complete the composition.

Cut back the upper branches to a point well within what you envision to be the final canopy 'shell'. You will want heavier branches in front and thinner ones in back (illusion of depth) which means your canopy will be taller/higher in front than in back. A few seasons developing the ramification and I think it will be quite interesting and you will be quite proud.

Hmmmmm...the trunk.....looks a lot like a Lava Lamp.