Stumps

Cool. I'm looking forward to reading about your direction on the stumps....particularly the Elm.
 
Stacy,

you have hackberrys growing ?
Presently ?

Geez all of our hackberrys from Louisiana are asleep and without the refrigerator.
I have to tell K this.
He was over on IBC worrying about the dormancy and someone told him to wait until
March 1st to the 15th and the person was from Louisiana.

Wow, love that first pot - want one.

Great topic, great showing.
Thank you.
Good Day
Anthony
 
Anthony said:
Stacy,

you have hackberrys growing ?
Presently ?

Geez all of our hackberrys from Louisiana are asleep and without the refrigerator.
I have to tell K this.
He was over on IBC worrying about the dormancy and someone told him to wait until
March 1st to the 15th and the person was from Louisiana.

Wow, love that first pot - want one.

Great topic, great showing.
Thank you.
Good Day
Anthony
Click to expand...
Yes, took pictures of Hackberry last night... Reason why mine is not dormant would be due to the chop being done off season, which forced new growth to grow and as not been that cold.

Pot is just a cheap mass production pot. It, clearly is to big for the tree, but for now will do
 
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Cypress187 said:
I have 1 stump, i'll post it soon :)
Click to expand...
Please do!
I will be digging up quite a few trees in the next couple of weeks... that have run amuck and we're either growing out or forgotten. will be sorting them out
 
+ benji... Last year I dismantled (air layered) one bigger neglected ficus received from my neighbor for a bottle of good wine. This is its bottom part, cut to the stump last summer. 2016_0220_14195200.jpg
...long way still ahead.
 
BethF said:
Those are nice stumps, guys. Can you give a little history of how you got them to where they are today?
Click to expand...
The linden was collected in the fall of 2014 after leaves dropped. The hornbeam in the spring of 2015. They both were cut to the stumps, barerooted, the roots washed and planted in inorganic soil in a plastic cans. Wired last fall. I checked the roots and repotted them to pots 2 days ago. So the trees are very young in service:)
 
BethF said:
Those are nice stumps, guys. Can you give a little history of how you got them to where they are today?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply!
As for the one's I posted, the Catlin Elm was a yard tree that I was given some time back by a friend who decided they didn't want to plant it, to be honest I didn't want it either... I stuck it on the corner of the yard with the rest of the no body wants trees and was cleaning up this area and decided to either do something with it or throw it away. It was about 8 ft tall and I wacked it down, removed about 90 percent of the roots and threw it in a temp pot to perhaps start it on a journey to something nice.

I would like to add something here... it is my view that if you are basically starting over from scratch, that you be very aggressive with the cutting! Especially on deciduous or broadleaf trees, including of course tropicals. .. get rid of all the heavy roots, weird roots, etc. from to start and really sort this out. Consider the size tree you want, the size pot you plan on planting it eventually in, etc. It is my view, that if the tree is going to die, better to do it now, then spending years upon years trying to resolve this and build up the tree, only to have it due after all that. Now, with that said... out of all the trees I have ever done this too... I have only had one die. So, it works! Plant them in a really good draining soil and water well for the first month. They should take off.

The bougie was a cutting. The Hackberry, was an impromptu decision, which I should of done the roots at the same time... I styled it as part of a competition, and was never happy with the size trunk it had, so out of frustration I wacked it off!
Here is a picture before, after the competition.
 
Thank you sawgrass.
These trees forgotten somewhere in the corner can be valuable material when we find them again. Or trees blown in by the with to our gardens.
BTW I've got some 50 trees growing and thickening in my mother's garden. I chop them deep in the spring and do root works every 2-3 years. Some +5 years and I'll start working with them.
 
petegreg said:
Thank you sawgrass.
These trees forgotten somewhere in the corner can be valuable material when we find them again. Or trees blown in by the with to our gardens.
BTW I've got some 50 trees growing and thickening in my mother's garden. I chop them deep in the spring and do root works every 2-3 years. Some +5 years and I'll start working with them.
Click to expand...
No problem!
Wanted to give a smidgen of advice, not that you really seem to need it, I love your trees!
In the first image posted, with the chop in the front. When doing the chops try and consider how the tree is going to cosmetically look. Even at these earlier stages...

Bonsai is all about hiding imperfections! Yes this scar right in front will eventually heal over...will still take a lot of time though. Often even when they do, they still might have some weird look, or leave an area that is not to pleasant to look at. So, if and where possible, try and plan it out where you don't have a scar right in front. I know sometimes it is easier said then done! But, the more you can consider this even at these early stages the better you will be and will save you a lot of time waiting for it look nice.

Which leads me to my second point... whenever possible, try as well to plan chops between two branches or nodes. As the branches take off, they will heal this area so much faster and as they grow, make this area almost virtually unable to detect there was ever even a chop done!

So, in your first tree, it might have been better to of cut a smidge lower ... flat between the front and back branch and threw one of these up as a new leader. Obviously, not trying to insult or critique necessarily your work, awesome job! Just throwing something out there to chew on! If you have more, please feel free to post! Will be loading more up shortly!
 
Thank you very much, I know it might be an issue. That's why I questioned Arnold_K how lindens heal the wounds.

You know, when I chopped it, it was potted deeper in soil and the tree was leaning different direction. I wanted to keep the thickest leader (that time there were no other branches, eth. is new, grown in one year) to take advantage from it building single trunk.

It's a very young tree with nebari in development. If this front works and it heals ugly, I can re-chop it lower later.

Now I have sth to think about. I'll keep my eye on it. Lesson learnt. I only wanted to show some stumps a year after. I appreciate your time and help.
 
petegreg said:
Thank you very much, I know it might be an issue. That's why I questioned Arnold_K how lindens heal the wounds.

You know, when I chopped it, it was potted deeper in soil and the tree was leaning different direction. I wanted to keep the thickest leader (that time there were no other branches, eth. is new, grown in one year) to take advantage from it building single trunk.

It's a very young tree with nebari in development. If this front works and it heals ugly, I can re-chop it lower later.

Now I have sth to think about. I'll keep my eye on it. Lesson learnt. I only wanted to show some stumps a year after. I appreciate your time and help.
Click to expand...
No problem! And as mentioned I totally get and understand your situation. Just one of those things that donned on me one day, when I noticed how nicely and fast a chop in between branches I had healed in comparison to one where there was just the leader trying to cover it.

What's cool is that as the two branches grow, they obviously each add to the healing as the the branches thicken, they automatically build outward, which forces new growth towards the center of the cut. So, there is an almost guarantee that the branches will fill this void and heal the scar. Also, even when it is not yet totally healed, because it builds up growth on the sides of the chop, and the only angle it will be visible will be from the top. So, you could still show it, even though it has not totally healed, cutting time down tremendously!

Also, something to consider if one has to do a very large chop, is the particular type of style one chooses for the design. If you had a chop that was a couple of inches or even more... if one did a flat chop, then allow new branches to grow, and did more of a broom style, or something to this effect... in a lot less time, the chop will no longer be visible, seeing that the branches will shield it from view.
 
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