strong artifical light to get a bud in an exact place?

I know one guy who was successful scratching the bark, over and over, on a privet, it order to get a bud to pop. It took him several years of scarifying the trunk, but eventually one did pop exactly where he wanted it to.
 
I have nothing little but more questions to your question:

Why atificial as opposed to natural light?
What specie of tree?
Do you want the bud where foliage now is or do you want it where foliage was several years ago?
Do you want it at a node or in the internode (maybe redundant, depending on specie)?
If you want it in an aged internode, I am almost certain it can only occur as a graft.
Note that cytokinins release latent buds. There are chemicals with the properties of cytokinin that can be applied to release latent buds. Light only enters the picture as necessary for the new shoot to produce enough auxin to ensure its continued survival - insufficient auxin = insufficient xylem produced --> insufficient water and minerals for photosynthesis --> :eek: help me, I'm dying.. ing... ing... ing ...:(
 
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It is for an elm, quite old...
artificial because I can actually place it like a couple of leds really close to the bark, natural light goes all over the place.
 
I know one guy who was successful scratching the bark, over and over, on a privet, it order to get a bud to pop. It took him several years of scarifying the trunk, but eventually one did pop exactly where he wanted it to.
Last year I noticed that on an American elm seedling I weeded would grow a bunch of buds along the edges of a wound going vertical up the trunk. I recall most of the buds being near the top.
 
I remember I have read interesting article about hormones, and one part was about promoting buds on specific parts of the trunk. Try to check it. Whole article is very interesting reading I have to say.
You can find it here: How Trees Adapt & Respond: The Growth Cycle Vie Hormones By Mac Caruthers
This is short quote from the article:
"To increase the probabilities of getting buds to break; you may want to try a “Bud Notching” approach. Growers of orchards that produce fruit, citrus, nuts and grapes need to develop as many branches on their trees as possible. Using their understanding of the suppressing powers of Auxin they have developed a technique called bud notching."
 
I saw a picture somewhere once...of what I think was a yew.

A landscape light right by the bottom of the trunk caused it to send out a cluster of new buds.

Maybe, just maybe, leaving these lights on at night is the key.

I am a believer of it works, somehow!

Sorce
 
Grafting requires skills I guess...
Besides that... Yeah I might have to graft.
 
Grafting requires an extremely sharp grafting knife, and some grafting tape, and a user who is willing to try.
 
I remember I have read interesting article about hormones, and one part was about promoting buds on specific parts of the trunk. Try to check it. Whole article is very interesting reading I have to say.
You can find it here: How Trees Adapt & Respond: The Growth Cycle Vie Hormones By Mac Caruthers

Maros has provided us with a very interesting article concerning the effects of auxins and cytokinins. My takeaways from the article are:

1. Light should increase the likelihood of the breaking of any latent bud present because auxin will be directed away from that site, making the cytokinin levels higher in comparison, thus increasing the chances of bud-break.

2. Using light coupled with the notch / scoring method (above the point where you concentrate the light) would probably increase your chances even more.

This is just my educated guess based on information presented in the article.
 
that is interesting... don't grafts always leave a mark? Or when you graft a branch you can't even tell after a while?
 
On some species (I have used it on hornbeam, elms -- of course-- and sweetgum) you can take a VERY sharp knife, and cut a tiny. but deep, V-shaped notch in the bark where you hope to have a bud pop, then wait. This works on the same premise that buds will sprout around the rim of a trunk chop. The V-notch interrupts sap flow and buds are encouraged. Sometimes you get several, sometimes fewer.

I would THINK it would work for junipers.
 
Grafts leave a mark. Pruning leaves a mark. Wiring leaves a mark.

So you have to decide. Should I graft and have a branch where I want one and have a mark that only I will know about? Or do I do nothing and have a naked branch?

Geez...
 
No need to get all angry... Why not think: if using these couple of leds I can get the same effect as grafting without scaring the tree. Wouldn't that be awesome?
 
if using these couple of leds I can get the same effect as grafting without scaring the tree. Wouldn't that be awesome?
It certainly would be! But there must be more to it than just light, else trees in the sun would be budding out all over, wouldn't they?

It is well known that nitrogen deficiency suppresses budding --> good nitrogen nutrition is essential. Auxin flow is also known to suppress buds. etc. etc. But much of what we know came as the result of unconventional thinking - if you prove to be correct, you are a genius; else you are just another crackpot. In this case, I think you can find many old old papers that document sprouting can occur in complete darkness (it is named, though I cannot recall it at the moment).
 
No, LOL, I'm not angry! I'm just amazed at the things you (and some others) worry about.

Its kinda like looking closely at a Monet painting and you can see the brush strokes he made as he applied the paint. Or, would it be better he had left a bare canvas?

At any rate, I hope your LED lighting method works. Keep us updated, please. I hope it works. It would be nice to have another tool in the bag!
 
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