Sometimes it's the POT
- Thread starter Mike Corazzi
- Start date
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
Okay, one last time. At the risk of banning and immolation....... I just corrupted
"mycorrhizae"
and.....well... probably should have given it more thought.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Hell no I love that!
I didn't get it for awhile.
What is your real name?
And are you Really 74?
If so, I love your attitude!
Stay young!
Sorce
A Random User
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I just have one question?
Who the Hell sits and paints Raffia Black?
People on the West Coast clearly have to much time on their Hands! Obviously. ..
Ok... seeing everyone has offered up their buck fifty of advice... then shit, I will offer mine...
When working a tree such as yours, you obviously have two choices... either go with the a tall thin, very lean Literati /Bunjin Style tree... seeing that your trunk is tall and thin...
Or bring the arrangement of the branching and foliage and it's composition down into the space of the trunk, as Peter has done. Which will greatly scale down and reduce the impact of the trunk being long and thin... giving the appearance of a much smaller tree... seeing that the best way to reduce a long line ... is to break it up.
So, does the design work for the moment?Answer obviously would be no...
However, by choosing the route he has... not only has it allowed for much better movement within the design, which gives a better sense of the tree being alive, and not stagnant.... but it also allows for future advancement of the tree's design seeing that now some of the lower branches can be extended and worked for years to come.... Room for growth, also means healthier tree.
Now, if you were wanting to be finished and show the tree sooner, than choosing this route verses the other, set you back. Oh... I can hear the complainers now... "it is all about spending as much time as it takes to make the best tree..." Yeah, but it's not really... either path, literati/bunjin as it was before, or the new design, would both make good trees, they are just different.
With that said. .. once you start to bring branches down as far as you have... then you really need to carry this throughout the design... so those above, will have to be brought down as well.
One last thing. .. obviously you will still need to reduce foliage mass, seeing that it is way to heavy for the trunk. With this new design... do not just cut back and reduce it's length and do not think of normal "Bonsai" padding...
You will need to instead... "Thin Out" the foliage and it's amount... and create very fine pads, scattered throughout ... much more like most tree you probably see around your house do.
This tree of mine with similar issues, might help with inspiration of where to go and head... you can have foliage a million miles away from a very thin trunk, as long as the tree feels very open and airy and the weight of them and the branches compliments the trunk.
Who the Hell sits and paints Raffia Black?
People on the West Coast clearly have to much time on their Hands! Obviously. ..
Ok... seeing everyone has offered up their buck fifty of advice... then shit, I will offer mine...
When working a tree such as yours, you obviously have two choices... either go with the a tall thin, very lean Literati /Bunjin Style tree... seeing that your trunk is tall and thin...
Or bring the arrangement of the branching and foliage and it's composition down into the space of the trunk, as Peter has done. Which will greatly scale down and reduce the impact of the trunk being long and thin... giving the appearance of a much smaller tree... seeing that the best way to reduce a long line ... is to break it up.
So, does the design work for the moment?Answer obviously would be no...
However, by choosing the route he has... not only has it allowed for much better movement within the design, which gives a better sense of the tree being alive, and not stagnant.... but it also allows for future advancement of the tree's design seeing that now some of the lower branches can be extended and worked for years to come.... Room for growth, also means healthier tree.
Now, if you were wanting to be finished and show the tree sooner, than choosing this route verses the other, set you back. Oh... I can hear the complainers now... "it is all about spending as much time as it takes to make the best tree..." Yeah, but it's not really... either path, literati/bunjin as it was before, or the new design, would both make good trees, they are just different.
With that said. .. once you start to bring branches down as far as you have... then you really need to carry this throughout the design... so those above, will have to be brought down as well.
One last thing. .. obviously you will still need to reduce foliage mass, seeing that it is way to heavy for the trunk. With this new design... do not just cut back and reduce it's length and do not think of normal "Bonsai" padding...
You will need to instead... "Thin Out" the foliage and it's amount... and create very fine pads, scattered throughout ... much more like most tree you probably see around your house do.
This tree of mine with similar issues, might help with inspiration of where to go and head... you can have foliage a million miles away from a very thin trunk, as long as the tree feels very open and airy and the weight of them and the branches compliments the trunk.
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
It IS gonna get foliage thinning.
My question to Peter concerned that "tightened" big ole branch and he LIKES it....just as it is.
But yes, the green stuff hasta be less.
and I saw 74 a couple years ago.
One reason for not tackling STARTER trees.
Cept for my oak that was 2" tall last summer and is putting on a fairly big trunk with taper.
My question to Peter concerned that "tightened" big ole branch and he LIKES it....just as it is.
But yes, the green stuff hasta be less.
and I saw 74 a couple years ago.
One reason for not tackling STARTER trees.
Cept for my oak that was 2" tall last summer and is putting on a fairly big trunk with taper.
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Oh, come now... tackling starter trees, especially with Junipers is where it is at!It IS gonna get foliage thinning.
My question to Peter concerned that "tightened" big ole branch and he LIKES it....just as it is.
But yes, the green stuff hasta be less.
and I saw 74 a couple years ago.
One reason for not tackling STARTER trees.
Cept for my oak that was 2" tall last summer and is putting on a fairly big trunk with taper.
With Junipers, it is all about heavy manipulation of what the material has to offer. If you don't learn how to wrap raffia, and do major bending, then it is best to stick really, I guess to deciduous trees!
I have been doing Bonsai now for 12-13 years and spent the first 10-11 of them just learning and perfecting how to manipulate a piece of material... with no concern of having a nice tree!
Why?
Well... if you learn as I have done how to do this... You become your own person. Capable of doing just about anything and solving every problem you encounter... The nice trees will easily come, if you know how to do the work, and when the time has come for you to begin this part of your journey!
Just don't waste your time painting raffia black, and you will do just fine! Besides, in a month or two... the color of the raffia dulls and you do not even notice it hardly on a tree, where black you see all the time... and every time you look at it... until you take it off. Unless of course you paint it camo...
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
Well, see in 12 or 13 years I will be 89 sooooooo........ Bermuda grass bonsai is my new focus.
STARTER bermuda of course.
Oh....and as to reducing the foliage....that is coming but at the club, Peter said to let the stuff I did rest a bit before messing with pruning out.
Made sense.
To let the larger foliage pull some sap/auxin/blood/juice/goo up and help the repot take a bit easier.
No?
STARTER bermuda of course.
Oh....and as to reducing the foliage....that is coming but at the club, Peter said to let the stuff I did rest a bit before messing with pruning out.
Made sense.
To let the larger foliage pull some sap/auxin/blood/juice/goo up and help the repot take a bit easier.
No?
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I understand!
I personally would agree with Tea... especially seeing you not only have done work, but a recent repotting.
What I was just trying to show was that you, don't always have to think in terms of necessarily chasing stuff back when designing... sometime just lightening the load and actually growing out might be a viable solution.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Kudos...hats off to you!It IS gonna get foliage thinning.
My question to Peter concerned that "tightened" big ole branch and he LIKES it....just as it is.
But yes, the green stuff hasta be less.
and I saw 74 a couple years ago.
One reason for not tackling STARTER trees.
Cept for my oak that was 2" tall last summer and is putting on a fairly big trunk with taper.
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
I have a female doctor. Last time I saw her, she called me "young man."
I said, "WHAT did you just call me?"
She kinda sheepishly realized and looked weird.
I told her, "That's okay......LITTLE LADY."
And we both had a good laugh.
PaulH
Omono
Had a chance to look at your tree in person at the meeting Tuesday and I like it a lot. The new branch placement is nice. My impression is that you might have over-pinched the foliage, though. I'd feed it and let it grow this season and then do some cut back to reduce the outline. the branch movement is very interesting and unique.
It took me a while, too, to get your pseudonym, and a little longer to figure out that I know you.
It took me a while, too, to get your pseudonym, and a little longer to figure out that I know you.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
You shudda seen it LAST year.
I had butchered the foliage and what you saw was probably DOUBLE the foliage from the last time I whacked on it.
That has undoubtedly been the MOST important thing I have learned here and in the world of bonsai.
LET THE DAMN THING GROW!
It makes SENSE. I labored under the wrong idea that it would grow out from WAY too little "left on."
My very FIRST impression of bonsai was to get trees to be ......LITTLE!
How wrong I was.
HEALTHY !!! Bang! NUMBAH ONE !!!
Numbah TWO is FINALLY figgering out that leaving sacrifice branches and stuff is the same with FOLIAGE!
I will shortly post my olive that I also "army cut" last year too close back to the limb.
LET THE BUGGERS EXTEND!
Not only does it draw more strength into the whole damn shoot, it shows em WHO'S BOSS when you finally DO
take the whacker to them and snip em AFTER they do some growing.
Paul, you are a good guy to know. You gave me confidence on my Scots pine when I was about to give up.
Thanks for that.
PaulH
Omono
I killed it. Tried to put it in a shallow pot for a show too late in the year and was hit with unexpected 100 degree plus days right afterward. RIP.
PaulH
Omono
Must be why you're a fun guy (fungi).
