Some Pictures in an effort to keep better track...

[fraser67]

Great idea! I like the numbers. I'm with Jeremy on individual albums.
I agree with the wire comment...
185 struck me...looks like some kind of bird lol...
196 and 81 I also like and think will be even stronger when wired.
Thanks for posting!

 

[choppychoppy]

Ok, I like some of your trees, there is real potential in some of them!

Please do not take what I say the wrong way as I just want to help you and looking at a struggling tree or something that just flat doesn't work and telling you it is "really good, great job"!! Doesn't help anybody... So please don't get your feelings hurt, I am not a master of anything except what NOT to do because I have probably become an expert at most the mistakes one can make as they learn Bonsai... I do know a little and I have learned a lot from people here telling me when I screwed something up- so please, don't think I am talking down to you or something!!

1. The Japanese Maple... Just doesn't work man. The exposed roots? Looks like the tree is struggling to live. That is a young tree that should be planted in a grow box or in the ground for a few years to get thicker. Once it is thriving, get it out of the ground/ container, wash the roots off and CHOP THE HELL OUT OF THEM! Go hard like they stole something from you! Consider doing the same to the top- chop to a low branch/ Node if you want some wiggle in the trunk, if not, cut those branches real low and develop the crown progressively. Then put it on a tile/ board/ CD/ frisbee... Something flat and let it grow some more! After a couple years you will have a nice flat root base, a bigger trunk and you can start worrying about developing the top... Feel free to leave it the way it is if it pleases you, but I fear the tree will not do well in it's current situation.

2. Invest in some wire.. Those Junipers need it. You have some decent trunks and deadwood features on a few, but every single one needs to be wired out. If you don't have the time/ patience/ experience to wire them out to the tips, build to that over time. Start at the bottom and work up.

3. Looks like you enjoy working on deadwood and did a fine job on some of those Junis! I think you could shorten some of it though... Movement and contrast are appealing not necessarily length. Carve them down with ruts, fissures, scars... Tell the story of damaged trees... Burn them out a little with a torch to both harden the wood, add some grey color... You still have the stark white contrast, but the various shades within the deadwood you get from burning it show the grain of the wood, the carving work you do... Adds interest.

You have quite a few trees, did a good job on your stands, have a big old honking trunk on a few... But I assumed you wanted a little advice and again I hope you understand I just want to help you out! Hopefully more people will chime in with specific advice, I just wanted to give you some general tips that might help you when working on most of your trees...

1. I like the maple - i have dozens more to 'chop the hell out of them' - i dont need every tree to look the same or 'work' for everyone. It is also super healthy and I have plenty that I'm trying to develop with the nice traditional flared base. I only pictured this one because it started to flush out so nicely.
2. all of the juniper have been wired and will be again - they all started as standard landscape trees and looked like this so have had quite a bit of wiring on initial styling

- all are from only about 6-12 months some even less along styling-wise from the black pots - the group shown were all unwired this week so i thought i would take pictures.
3. I have also done everything you mentioned and then some on several trees as far as deadwood - ive even got several testing pieces with diff treatments going

Thanks for all the comments

 

[choppychoppy]

I like most of them, if you like feedback then here it is:

23: Bar branch(s)
106: I don't like the crossing branch / yin
156: Long straight branch / thunk
185: Too long yin / to small branches (the left tree doesn't have a number, but the roots are on the wrong side i think.
036: Maybe needs another front / has eyepoking crossing trunk
136: I think i dont like the long yins
192: Reversed taper
174: Parralel branch
163: No movement
062: Leaning backward
086: Parralel + bar branch / straight (no movement)

I really appreciate the specific comments for each tree. As far as theory I have heard/read it all - putting it into practice on a real living growing tree is another thing entirely. So many folks give generic styling/wiring info and care info I don't need haha. This is so great for me to hear specific design things about specific trees. I even think a few of the things 'wrong' or disliked may also be from the pics - yay me haha. Thanks again very much.

 

[Paradox]

I switched from plastic plant stakes with numbers written on them to the aluminun engraved tags. I like the tags better because the writing on the plant stakes fades and had to be re-written once or twice a year.

My tree folders are arranged in categories: pines, junpiers, maples, etc. Those have sub-folders by species (JBP, Mugo, Scots etc), then each tree has its own folder in its species folder. Each picture has a code giving info on the tree, year taken and picture number if more than one picture was taken at the time.

I have an excel spreadsheet to track info on each tree and the work done to it with reference to picture number. One spreadsheet page/tab per category (pines, junipers, maples etc). Each tree has its own column with id number in the top row, then going down rows: species, when purchased, where purchased/obtained, price paid, then what work was done when.

It is alot of work but necessary to keep track and remember what was done to each tree.