I've used safet-sorb, if I recall correctly it has same composition as turface and many other monto clay derivatives which are roughly 2/3 diatoms and 1/3 clay. In my experience it goes soft faster than the white DE. It doesn't handle pressure/friction as well, you can rub it into nothing between your fingers with ease. My prediction is the clay is going to be the weak link in the equation otherwise the three are very similar.As someone who lives up North I can save you some time. Nothing should change in 30 days (or three freeze cycles) where I live it's normal to be above freezing during the day and below at night. This can happen everyday for a month and a half without exaggeration, As well as all the days before and after that time too. Maybe 60 times total each winter (as an estimate). You'll probably have to freeze and thaw these particles many many times before you see much change. I can tell the 8822 you have is the soft stuff so that might start to go fast but the other two are going to be marathon experiments. If you are up for it I'm excited to see the results
One of these will do the bulk of it. Often found in a dollar store, or just a couple bucks at Walmart or the like.I picked up some Safe-T sorb at Tractor Supply the other day, but I have no idea where my screening stuff is (everything is packed due to a move, slowly unpacking). Hopefully I can come up with something - I have succulents that need repotting. Hopefully mine looks as good as yours. I'll post some pics when I can deal with it properly (eg I find some way to screen it).
The 8822 does appear to not like the freeze cycle.This is FANTASTIC!
Thanks for doing this. It answers the burning questions I've had about these sorts of products.
40 degree F temperature swings from day to night during the winter aren't rare occurrences in my area, so finding cheap soil components that will stand up to that is becoming increasingly important to me.
Looks like the 8822 isn't going to do it for me.
Saf t sorb will be fine for succulents after ya siftI picked up some Safe-T sorb at Tractor Supply the other day, but I have no idea where my screening stuff is (everything is packed due to a move, slowly unpacking). Hopefully I can come up with something - I have succulents that need repotting. Hopefully mine looks as good as yours. I'll post some pics when I can deal with it properly (eg I find some way to screen it).
Ultimately, I think you need to see how these different components work under real life conditions. I have no doubt that akadama will break down under freeze/thaw conditions. The real question is what happens with the roots that are growing within that medium. Back in the day in MA, I grew everything in turface, and I can honestly say it doesn't break down much over time in a zone 6 climate. My trees were ok growing in it, too. The switch to akadama based mixes for my better trees occurred years ago down south in zone 7b GA and I generally thought the switch was beneficial for health and development. Now, I'm back up north and my best trees are in akadama mixes, with bags of the stuff in the garage. At least half of my collection will be maintained outside all year. will my trees continue to do well? Time will tell.I’m still very new to the hobby so maybe I’m missing something here. Based on your study and desire to exclude the Napa 8822 it seems you are basing that solely on its penchant for breakdown. However, is that a bad thing? It will require repotting more frequently due to loss of percolation. Akadama breaks down also but is the gold standard for soil choice. In fact, I’m understanding that the breakdown helps facilitate finer root growth. So maybe the breakdown of the 8822 isn't such a bad thing. Maybe seeing what akadama does under your same testing conditions would be a useful data point.
My desire was not exclude 8822. I still have 2 bags of it and have trees growing in purely 8822. It does a great job of holding moisture and not being wet.I’m still very new to the hobby so maybe I’m missing something here. Based on your study and desire to exclude the Napa 8822 it seems you are basing that solely on its penchant for breakdown. However, is that a bad thing? It will require repotting more frequently due to loss of percolation. Akadama breaks down also but is the gold standard for soil choice. In fact, I’m understanding that the breakdown helps facilitate finer root growth. So maybe the breakdown of the 8822 isn't such a bad thing. Maybe seeing what akadama does under your same testing conditions would be a useful data point.