SHIMPAKU ailment

The picture I posted depicts juniper tip blight - a fungal disease. It's effects are often localized on a tree - when you see a slight yellowing that turns brown on tips in one area on a tree, it indicates a fungal infection. Tip blight is caused by a fungus called phomopsis. It'll show up in spring when temperatures reach 60F and above, especially with wet, humid conditions. Here's a link with more information.

It's effects are different than spider mites which affect broad areas of the tree and result in a general graying of the foliage. It might start on one branch, but it quickly spreads to the entire tree. Sometimes I'll notice it on one side of a juniper (usually the shaded side) or over the entire thing. Here's a comparison of foliage damaged by spider mites followed by healthy foliage after spider mites have been eliminated.
View attachment 113926

See the dull green color? That's spider mite damage - you can ID them by flicking the branch over a white piece of paper and you might see the little dots moving around. It looks different then what you have. Your problem looks more like tip blight.

Treatment for tip blight is:
  1. Remove all affected foliage
  2. Clean up all debris from the container
  3. I've heard anecdotal reports of effective control using Mancozeb, Heritage, Ortho Garden Fungicide, or Zerotol but be aware that the only fungicide currently registered for phomopsis control is Benomyl (methyl 1-(butylcarbamoyl)-2-benzimidazolecarbamate; CAS #17804-35-2), so look for that on the label. It might be listed as benomyl or the longer chemical name and not all of the products above have it. I believe Heritage contains benomyl, but perhaps others can confirm that for me. Always apply when the foliage is dry. Do not use Daconil and don't apply when the foliage is wet.
  4. Use Bannermax or Zerotol to sterilize the plant tissue and kill any spores that remain.
  5. To prevent, keep foliage dry and in the full sun. Clean up the old foliage regularly to let light and air into the interior of the tree.
Treatment for spider mites is:
  1. Physical control - spray regularly with a hard stream of water. Mites are easy to dislodge and a hard spray will knock them off. It's an effective population control if you use it regularly. Here's an example.
  2. Chemical control - if you have an established colony of mites, it's best to spray. Bifenthrin (i.e. Talstar) or Malthion are effective, but a lot of insecticides are not. Remember that these are not insects, they're arthropods. So a lot of insect neurotoxins are not effective. Make sure you find one that is specifically labeled for spider mites like the two I listed above. Spray the entire foliage weekly for 3 weeks to ensure that you get the second generation.
  3. Imidacloprid-based insecticides such as Bayer, Merit, or Zenith are ineffective against spider mites, so don't rely on them for control. Rely instead on the physical control above to keep populations from getting established.
Scott

I should have mentioned Neem oil as a partially effective control for spider mites. It's sometimes mixed with dishwashing soap as a surfactant, but multiple treatments are generally required. You'll need to apply it weekly or more until the mites are gone, but don't apply Neem oil when temperatures are in excess of 90 degrees or if plants are water stressed.

Scott
 
thanks everyone!!!!!
This is grown and overwintered outside(protected)....no glued on rocks. just some soil cover rocks to avoid dirt runoff.
the rest of plant did fade some but has come back with iron addition.
The soil mix is fast draining.
How does one check for mites before attacking them?
I usually water every other day unless its really hot and dry.
Thanks for the quick replies! it would of taken a week on the other forum to get this type of help!
Bryan

I'm also in VA and it's been so hot here lately that my junipers (along with everything else) have been getting watered twice a day as Grimlore suggested.
 
Hi again,
So i went ahead and pulled the tree from the pot and my issue is deathly looking roots probably from overwatering which is something i have been trying to control on a per tree basis but its appears the roots have no activity at all.
So with that being said i knocked off the wet soil medium and replaced with new dry medium. and out of panic i went ahead and gave a dose of dyna-gro KLN to hopefully rejuvenate roots before winter arrives.
So all in all it is clearly not pests or disease it is my fault.
GRRRR!
Thanks everyone for the help as i have clearly learned some new things but my heavy water hand has struck again.(sadly).
Bryan
 
Hi again,
So i went ahead and pulled the tree from the pot and my issue is deathly looking roots probably from overwatering which is something i have been trying to control on a per tree basis but its appears the roots have no activity at all.
So with that being said i knocked off the wet soil medium and replaced with new dry medium. and out of panic i went ahead and gave a dose of dyna-gro KLN to hopefully rejuvenate roots before winter arrives.
So all in all it is clearly not pests or disease it is my fault.
GRRRR!
Thanks everyone for the help as i have clearly learned some new things but my heavy water hand has struck again.(sadly).
Bryan
Bare in mind that a tree that isn't growing strongly will be more susceptible to disease and insect attack. You could be dealing with multiple issues here.
 
Very true.
Well i will keep them and see....is there any other tricks i can try?
Bryan
Just don't repot it!

Oh, too late?

Well then... Water it deeply and fully and keep it in partial shade. Don't "baby" it and try to change things up too much. Trees in pots need the air exchange we provide by watering to "flush out" old stagnant air and any nastiness growing in it. They also need to get established well in a pot before being moved around a bunch or repotted...

I SERIOUSLY doubt over watering was the cause of your issues unless the tree was sitting in a pot without any drainage holes or in a POND. More likely it got too dry or had some sort of soil issue like over fertilizing that burns the roots and leads to the dead root mass you are describing... That can in turn lead to soil that doesn't dry out because roots aren't taking up the water... But it doesn't mean over watering was the culprit!

Regardless, treat for potential insect/ fungus damage, set it aside in partial shade, WATER IT HEAVILY when you do water it- til water runs through the pot, wait, then do it again. This flushes the old stagnant air out of the soil like I said. Don't try to "mist it" or water sparingly. If the tree has any life left it might come back, or it will turn brown and into firewood... But if you keep messing with it, pulling it out of the pot, poking at it, fawning over it, trying to do "tricks", it will die. Guaranteed. That IS a the "trick"- stick em in dirt, water them often, besides that forget all about them! ;)

Good luck.
 
Thanks!
Just don't repot it!

Oh, too late?

Well then... Water it deeply and fully and keep it in partial shade. Don't "baby" it and try to change things up too much. Trees in pots need the air exchange we provide by watering to "flush out" old stagnant air and any nastiness growing in it. They also need to get established well in a pot before being moved around a bunch or repotted...

I SERIOUSLY doubt over watering was the cause of your issues unless the tree was sitting in a pot without any drainage holes or in a POND. More likely it got too dry or had some sort of soil issue like over fertilizing that burns the roots and leads to the dead root mass you are describing... That can in turn lead to soil that doesn't dry out because roots aren't taking up the water... But it doesn't mean over watering was the culprit!

Regardless, treat for potential insect/ fungus damage, set it aside in partial shade, WATER IT HEAVILY when you do water it- til water runs through the pot, wait, then do it again. This flushes the old stagnant air out of the soil like I said. Don't try to "mist it" or water sparingly. If the tree has any life left it might come back, or it will turn brown and into firewood... But if you keep messing with it, pulling it out of the pot, poking at it, fawning over it, trying to do "tricks", it will die. Guaranteed. That IS a the "trick"- stick em in dirt, water them often, besides that forget all about them! ;)

Good luck.
 
Hi again,
So i went ahead and pulled the tree from the pot and my issue is deathly looking roots probably from overwatering which is something i have been trying to control on a per tree basis but its appears the roots have no activity at all.
So with that being said i knocked off the wet soil medium and replaced with new dry medium. and out of panic i went ahead and gave a dose of dyna-gro KLN to hopefully rejuvenate roots before winter arrives.
So all in all it is clearly not pests or disease it is my fault.
GRRRR!
Thanks everyone for the help as i have clearly learned some new things but my heavy water hand has struck again.(sadly).
Bryan

You did not over water it as has been previously explained unless as was said it was in a pond. As @Dav4 suggested it was more likely root burn from fertilizer... The reason I concur is you watered every other day and in your climate it dried a lot in between. If you are fertilizing dry roots what you describe is root burn. Water daily and apply fertilizer 15 - 20 minutes after watering - it will save a lot of plants... Don't fertilize it at all until you see signs of recovery - fertilizer is not medicine and will cause more harm then good right now. As suggested put it on the side now and just water as that will give it the chance it needs to recover...

Grimmy
 
The picture I posted depicts juniper tip blight - a fungal disease. It's effects are often localized on a tree - when you see a slight yellowing that turns brown on tips in one area on a tree, it indicates a fungal infection. Tip blight is caused by a fungus called phomopsis. It'll show up in spring when temperatures reach 60F and above, especially with wet, humid conditions. Here's a link with more information.

It's effects are different than spider mites which affect broad areas of the tree and result in a general graying of the foliage. It might start on one branch, but it quickly spreads to the entire tree. Sometimes I'll notice it on one side of a juniper (usually the shaded side) or over the entire thing. Here's a comparison of foliage damaged by spider mites followed by healthy foliage after spider mites have been eliminated.
View attachment 113926

See the dull green color? That's spider mite damage - you can ID them by flicking the branch over a white piece of paper and you might see the little dots moving around. It looks different then what you have. Your problem looks more like tip blight.

Treatment for tip blight is:
  1. Remove all affected foliage
  2. Clean up all debris from the container
  3. I've heard anecdotal reports of effective control using Mancozeb, Heritage, Ortho Garden Fungicide, or Zerotol but be aware that the only fungicide currently registered for phomopsis control is Benomyl (methyl 1-(butylcarbamoyl)-2-benzimidazolecarbamate; CAS #17804-35-2), so look for that on the label. It might be listed as benomyl or the longer chemical name and not all of the products above have it. I believe Heritage contains benomyl, but perhaps others can confirm that for me. Always apply when the foliage is dry. Do not use Daconil and don't apply when the foliage is wet.
  4. Use Bannermax or Zerotol to sterilize the plant tissue and kill any spores that remain.
  5. To prevent, keep foliage dry and in the full sun. Clean up the old foliage regularly to let light and air into the interior of the tree.
Treatment for spider mites is:
  1. Physical control - spray regularly with a hard stream of water. Mites are easy to dislodge and a hard spray will knock them off. It's an effective population control if you use it regularly. Here's an example.
  2. Chemical control - if you have an established colony of mites, it's best to spray. Bifenthrin (i.e. Talstar) or Malthion are effective, but a lot of insecticides are not. Remember that these are not insects, they're arthropods. So a lot of insect neurotoxins are not effective. Make sure you find one that is specifically labeled for spider mites like the two I listed above. Spray the entire foliage weekly for 3 weeks to ensure that you get the second generation.
  3. Imidacloprid-based insecticides such as Bayer, Merit, or Zenith are ineffective against spider mites, so don't rely on them for control. Rely instead on the physical control above to keep populations from getting established.
Scott
I fully agree with above and believe your issues are fungal.
 
Hi again,
So i went ahead and pulled the tree from the pot and my issue is deathly looking roots probably from overwatering which is something i have been trying to control on a per tree basis but its appears the roots have no activity at all.
So with that being said i knocked off the wet soil medium and replaced with new dry medium. and out of panic i went ahead and gave a dose of dyna-gro KLN to hopefully rejuvenate roots before winter arrives.
So all in all it is clearly not pests or disease it is my fault.
GRRRR!
Thanks everyone for the help as i have clearly learned some new things but my heavy water hand has struck again.(sadly).
Bryan
If your roots are rotting check your pot- does it have dips where the feet are that hold water? Very common with cheap pots. Are the screens over the holes clear? They can get clogged and keep water from draining.
 
Thanks everyone...wow i have so much too learn....i never knew fertilizing a dryer soil could cause fertilizer burn.
Now i wonder if this hasnt been my issue on some other ailing trees.
This forum has been a blessing!
Thank you all!
 
Back
Top Bottom