markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
The picture I posted depicts juniper tip blight - a fungal disease. It's effects are often localized on a tree - when you see a slight yellowing that turns brown on tips in one area on a tree, it indicates a fungal infection. Tip blight is caused by a fungus called phomopsis. It'll show up in spring when temperatures reach 60F and above, especially with wet, humid conditions. Here's a link with more information.
It's effects are different than spider mites which affect broad areas of the tree and result in a general graying of the foliage. It might start on one branch, but it quickly spreads to the entire tree. Sometimes I'll notice it on one side of a juniper (usually the shaded side) or over the entire thing. Here's a comparison of foliage damaged by spider mites followed by healthy foliage after spider mites have been eliminated.
View attachment 113926
See the dull green color? That's spider mite damage - you can ID them by flicking the branch over a white piece of paper and you might see the little dots moving around. It looks different then what you have. Your problem looks more like tip blight.
Treatment for tip blight is:
Treatment for spider mites is:
- Remove all affected foliage
- Clean up all debris from the container
- I've heard anecdotal reports of effective control using Mancozeb, Heritage, Ortho Garden Fungicide, or Zerotol but be aware that the only fungicide currently registered for phomopsis control is Benomyl (methyl 1-(butylcarbamoyl)-2-benzimidazolecarbamate; CAS #17804-35-2), so look for that on the label. It might be listed as benomyl or the longer chemical name and not all of the products above have it. I believe Heritage contains benomyl, but perhaps others can confirm that for me. Always apply when the foliage is dry. Do not use Daconil and don't apply when the foliage is wet.
- Use Bannermax or Zerotol to sterilize the plant tissue and kill any spores that remain.
- To prevent, keep foliage dry and in the full sun. Clean up the old foliage regularly to let light and air into the interior of the tree.
Scott
- Physical control - spray regularly with a hard stream of water. Mites are easy to dislodge and a hard spray will knock them off. It's an effective population control if you use it regularly. Here's an example.
- Chemical control - if you have an established colony of mites, it's best to spray. Bifenthrin (i.e. Talstar) or Malthion are effective, but a lot of insecticides are not. Remember that these are not insects, they're arthropods. So a lot of insect neurotoxins are not effective. Make sure you find one that is specifically labeled for spider mites like the two I listed above. Spray the entire foliage weekly for 3 weeks to ensure that you get the second generation.
- Imidacloprid-based insecticides such as Bayer, Merit, or Zenith are ineffective against spider mites, so don't rely on them for control. Rely instead on the physical control above to keep populations from getting established.
I should have mentioned Neem oil as a partially effective control for spider mites. It's sometimes mixed with dishwashing soap as a surfactant, but multiple treatments are generally required. You'll need to apply it weekly or more until the mites are gone, but don't apply Neem oil when temperatures are in excess of 90 degrees or if plants are water stressed.
Scott